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On my 03 VRSCA It seems that my clutch does not engage until the lever is almost all the way out . I have bled the system a couple of times , Starting at the master cylinder to the secondary bleeder screw . Is it time for a new clutch ? When I bled it I have lots of pressure at the master but not at secondary bleeder screw . Any suggestions ?
 

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How much driven and is it stock clutch? Is it slipping already when driving?

V-Rod stock clutches are quite late engaging but sounds like it is time for new clutch. SE slippery is nice clutch but also quite late engaging.
 

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On my 03 VRSCA It seems that my clutch does not engage until the lever is almost all the way out . I have bled the system a couple of times , Starting at the master cylinder to the secondary bleeder screw . Is it time for a new clutch ? When I bled it I have lots of pressure at the master but not at secondary bleeder screw . Any suggestions ?
The same thing I did when I got my "D". Drained, cleaned, fill, bleed, repeat, repeat again... Because I thought there is no way the friction zone is less then 1 inch? I even added a SE slipper clutch still no friction zone. Yep that is all you get on a VROD the clutch grabs at about 93 to 95% of the way out. The slipper clutch is the same just a lot less pull on the clutch level and MUCH smoother shifting. I'm not so happy with the tiny fiction zone (but you get used to it) but I do love the SE Slipper Clutch.

The only place the tiny fiction zone drives me nuts is doing U-Turns! LOL But like I said you will get used to it. I think "Streetrodracer" told me you will get used to it like a 2nd brain controlling the clutch. :) He wasn't wrong now that I have lots of miles on the bike I can shoot out of lights, little to no problems in tight turns and I don't really even think about the tiny friction zone anymore.
I still DO NOT like U-TURNS LOL but everything else I would never have any other Harley. Unless the Revolution 2 motor goes in a 150+ hp cruiser. :)
 

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My 2003 was my first bike out of riding school, bought a '13 Street Triple at the same time, and I legit thought there was something wrong with my V-Rod's clutch too, compared to the bikes at training school and the Striple. I looked for levers with a different ratio, I looked at a million things, did a bunch of reading... this is just how this clutch is set up, there's no changing it as far as I can tell, you just gotta grin and bear it, and it's a big reason (more than weight) that I absolutely don't love riding into downtown or traffic areas on this bike. My other bike right now is a 2007 ZX-10R with a cable clutch, and even that compared to the V-Rod is a million times better. I don't know what HD was thinking with these clutches, or the transmission with that awful 1st to 2nd "clunk" and the thing where it likes to fight a 2nd to 1st shift. I don't know if this is V-Rod specific or all their bikes are like this but... it's something that I'd expect a company as old as HD that charges as much as HD does to have right.

J.Ja
 

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My 2003 was my first bike out of riding school, bought a '13 Street Triple at the same time, and I legit thought there was something wrong with my V-Rod's clutch too, compared to the bikes at training school and the Striple. I looked for levers with a different ratio, I looked at a million things, did a bunch of reading... this is just how this clutch is set up, there's no changing it as far as I can tell, you just gotta grin and bear it, and it's a big reason (more than weight) that I absolutely don't love riding into downtown or traffic areas on this bike. My other bike right now is a 2007 ZX-10R with a cable clutch, and even that compared to the V-Rod is a million times better. I don't know what HD was thinking with these clutches, or the transmission with that awful 1st to 2nd "clunk" and the thing where it likes to fight a 2nd to 1st shift. I don't know if this is V-Rod specific or all their bikes are like this but... it's something that I'd expect a company as old as HD that charges as much as HD does to have right.

J.Ja
Clutch engaging at the end of lever is typical of hydro clutches. If not, there's likely air in the system. As for the 1st - 2nd, normal. I don't like it either so I generally short shift it. On down shifts, 2nd - 1st, throttle blip seems to solve that. You expect too much from HD 😆
Ron
Roln
 

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On my 03 VRSCA It seems that my clutch does not engage until the lever is almost all the way out . I have bled the system a couple of times , Starting at the master cylinder to the secondary bleeder screw . Is it time for a new clutch ? When I bled it I have lots of pressure at the master but not at secondary bleeder screw . Any suggestions ?
The same thing I did when I got my "D". Drained, cleaned, fill, bleed, repeat, repeat again... Because I thought there is no way the friction zone is less then 1 inch? I even added a SE slipper clutch still no friction zone. Yep that is all you get on a VROD the clutch grabs at about 93 to 95% of the way out. The slipper clutch is the same just a lot less pull on the clutch level and MUCH smoother shifting. I'm not so happy with the tiny fiction zone (but you get used to it) but I do love the SE Slipper Clutch.

The only place the tiny fiction zone drives me nuts is doing U-Turns! LOL But like I said you will get used to it. I think "Streetrodracer" told me you will get used to it like a 2nd brain controlling the clutch. :) He wasn't wrong now that I have lots of miles on the bike I can shoot out of lights, little to no problems in tight turns and I don't really even think about the tiny friction zone anymore.
I still DO NOT like U-TURNS LOL but everything else I would never have any other Harley. Unless the Revolution 2 motor goes in a 150+ hp cruiser. :)
I agree with all the other posts that say this is just how the clutch is set up. One suggestion if your clutch ever stops working altogether: remove the slave and clean it. You can potentially get junk in the system over time. Stuff like old fluid that has congealed.
 

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Clutch engaging at the end of lever is typical of hydro clutches. If not, there's likely air in the system. As for the 1st - 2nd, normal. I don't like it either so I generally short shift it. On down shifts, 2nd - 1st, throttle blip seems to solve that. You expect too much from HD 😆
Ron
Roln
LOLOL I know, I know, I'm soooo picky :D I've been working on the throttle blip (I did the reading on the 2-1 quirks a few weeks ago and learned I'm not alone there...). Riding my V-Rod makes me flip a switch in my brain other bikes don't:

* "Remember, if you just drop off of the throttle completely while you have the clutch in and it's in 1st, it has a chance of stalling, always need to give it a touch of throttle if the clutch is in."

* "Don't forget, you have 5 gears not 6."

* "Turn signals don't work the way you expect."

* "The turn signals are self-cancelling, but only 25% of the time."

* "You might have to try a couple of times to get from 1st to 2nd."

* "Blip the throttle when trying to get to first."

* "That rear brake pad took you an hour to replace, the front ones took 5 minutes, don't use the rear brake unless it's an emergency."

* "Watch where you put your right boot, remember, we have a burn hole in the boot from the last time you forgot."

* "Tighten down the O2 sensor plug from time to time, remember when we had an hour drive home with open exhaust blowing onto the bottom of our thigh and had to buy an oil drain plug for the hole until that V&H part arrived from eBay?"

* "Let's get out of that semi's draft, these wheels are catching all the turbulence and we're shaking like crazy."

* "Dang, hit a bump real hard, guess I'll have to pull over and re-aim the headlight next chance I get."

I love the bike... it looks great, it rides great, I get SOOOOO many compliments on it, it's not funny, but the bike has a ton of "personality", same way my mother has "a ton of personality". ;)

J.Ja
 

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In hydraulic clutch master and slave cylinder ratio is fixed and it is what it is. Assuming that there is no air and components are clean and otherwise operational.

So it is only how much clutch pack needs slave actuator movement to release and engage. Stock and slippery clutch needs very little so it can be seen by late hand lever engaging. It is also worth notice that you cannot play with slave cylinder position by shimming or whatsoever since it will always touch clutch after clutch springs pushes it back. Actuator movement starts from that point.

When going to aftermarket clutches where is more friction and steel plates for higher torque situation can be changed. Two extra plates can move engaging point just opposite direction and it can start even dragging if steel plates between are little bit warped if they have been abused heavily. So movement need for release starts to be even more than slave actuator can provide. Then it will drag even lever is pushed to bottom. And believe me this is not the situation you want. If it is hard to change gears before that now it is even impossible to find neutral from first gear side. If lucky it will found from 2nd gear side going downwards. It is very nasty to stay in every traffic light with gear in position and hand lever in bottom.

It is a bit shame that aftermarket clutches are made so cheap and are bit crappy. Friction zones in the plates are very large and does not provide as smooth operation than stock or SE slippery clutch. But if one really wants to play with clutches one extra plate (10pcs) might be little better choice for the middle engaging point.
 

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My 2003 was my first bike out of riding school, bought a '13 Street Triple at the same time, and I legit thought there was something wrong with my V-Rod's clutch too, compared to the bikes at training school and the Striple. I looked for levers with a different ratio, I looked at a million things, did a bunch of reading... this is just how this clutch is set up, there's no changing it as far as I can tell, you just gotta grin and bear it, and it's a big reason (more than weight) that I absolutely don't love riding into downtown or traffic areas on this bike. My other bike right now is a 2007 ZX-10R with a cable clutch, and even that compared to the V-Rod is a million times better. I don't know what HD was thinking with these clutches, or the transmission with that awful 1st to 2nd "clunk" and the thing where it likes to fight a 2nd to 1st shift. I don't know if this is V-Rod specific or all their bikes are like this but... it's something that I'd expect a company as old as HD that charges as much as HD does to have right.

J.Ja
Yep, I noticed the difficulty shifting into first gear getting out of D.C. after Rolling Thunder 2004 the traffic is always terrible and I guess the clutch plates swell just a smidge all stacked together. I've developed a better technique of slipping in and out between 1st.neutral and 2nd.that does not overheat the plates and I don't just move up half a car length every time the car in front moves 6 ft. Never had anything bother me since even Rolling Thunder and waiting to creep over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge I have found it's not necessary to stay in 1st gear when you're in the middle of a long line of traffic. After all you've got no were to go. Good luck Mike from Maryland
PS I looked around for levers as well and ended up cutting the levers at the inside end grinding a little of and having them welded at a steeper angle so my wife could reach them comfortably.
 

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2003 V-Rod, CFR Headers, CFR Fueler, Oberon Slave, Chrome Forks, Chrome Sway, Chrome Calipers.
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On my 03 VRSCA It seems that my clutch does not engage until the lever is almost all the way out . I have bled the system a couple of times , Starting at the master cylinder to the secondary bleeder screw . Is it time for a new clutch ? When I bled it I have lots of pressure at the master but not at secondary bleeder screw . Any suggestions ?
I bought an Oberon Slave for $175,on my 2003 and I am happy with it, perhaps it might help you
 

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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jmjames: lol

* "That rear brake pad took you an hour to replace, the front ones took 5 minutes, don't use the rear brake unless it's an emergency."

...or if you really want an uncontrollable skid...

Lol

allendalewilliams:

Oberon...yes...considering it. Have Barnett +1 CF ready to install. Anyone tried this in race application along with the AIM-TAMACHI?

-Sean
 
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