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Daytona TwinTec VRFI-D hits the street

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Discussion starter · #241 ·
If the IAC doesn't cycle then the ECM probably isn't getting power. Double check all the connections and make sure you remembered to put the MAXI fuse back in......

AND, make sure you have the run/stop switch in the Run position ;)
 
#242 ·
never do things when you're pissed off and tired at the same time. Someone turned off the run switch and niether of us thought to check it, DOH! Anyway,it runs, runs well, I'll know more after I run it for a few days. thanks everyone for their help.
 
#243 ·
kfrey95 said:
never do things when you're pissed off and tired at the same time. Someone turned off the run switch and niether of us thought to check it, DOH! Anyway,it runs, runs well, I'll know more after I run it for a few days. thanks everyone for their help.
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Yeah, my biggest problems were mostly operator error. Enjoy.
 
#244 ·
Okay, How exactly do I change the Air Fuel Ratio settings?
 
#246 ·
Load the map into the PClink VRFI program by either opening an existing map or downloading from the bike, click on Edit 3D Table, click on AFR table, and make any changes to the cells, then save the changes, save the file, (optional) then upload the file to the ecm on the bike and you are good to go. Then just ride and tune as normal.

Mike
 
#247 ·
Ok I think I figured out what is going on I have a bad connection somewher that only surfaces when it gets hot therefore the engine is getting hot losing poser somewhere started looking through my logs and noticed not only does the AFR hit zero it is usually proceded by a drastic dip in voltage..


Here is my latest logs on with smoothrods map thinkng the advance in timing was the culprit however the latest is whith MJW's map and there is one dip maybe the advance in timing is accentuating the problem but don't know where my problem is since it is heat related is it possible that it is my voltage regulator when it gets hot it isn't working right????? Or simple just like a ground??? I know start simple just getting frustrated with this.... Since I don't have the electrical book what is the test for a voltage regulator anyone wanna scan it in for me???
 

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#249 ·
Okay, pipes are on, VFRI-D is on, bike is running. It sounds as though its running rich. It pops on decel and it sounds a little "poppy" going down the road at normal cruising speeds, 4,000 RPM. WOT it runs like a scalded dog and I don't notice any popping, could be cause I'm watching for assholes and not listening. I bought the book that Twin Tec recommended and I'm studying it now. Is anyone else getting this popping sound or is it just my Rinhart pipes?
 
#250 ·
kfrey95 said:
Okay, pipes are on, VFRI-D is on, bike is running. It sounds as though its running rich. It pops on decel and it sounds a little "poppy" going down the road at normal cruising speeds, 4,000 RPM. WOT it runs like a scalded dog and I don't notice any popping, could be cause I'm watching for assholes and not listening. I bought the book that Twin Tec recommended and I'm studying it now. Is anyone else getting this popping sound or is it just my Rinhart pipes?
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What book was that???


mjw930 said:
Try this post: http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=801085&highlight=regulator#post801085
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Crap forgot about the overcharge comment... well gues like a bad ground probably I'll clean it up this weekend and see how it goes..
 
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Discussion starter · #251 ·
kfrey95 said:
Okay, pipes are on, VFRI-D is on, bike is running. It sounds as though its running rich. It pops on decel and it sounds a little "poppy" going down the road at normal cruising speeds, 4,000 RPM. WOT it runs like a scalded dog and I don't notice any popping, could be cause I'm watching for assholes and not listening. I bought the book that Twin Tec recommended and I'm studying it now. Is anyone else getting this popping sound or is it just my Rinhart pipes?
Click to expand...
It will take some time to normalize to your bike. Deceleration popping is something that should not happen (never happened to me with either the ST or SE pipes) but others have noticed it. You will have popping if you aren't going to 0 throttle on deceleration since the deceleration circuit is "fooled" by a partial throttle situation. You can tune that out once the system normalizes. It usually takes about 5 applications of the BLM table to normalize assuming you are riding at various speeds and throttle situations.

Others have mentioned the popping at light throttle and I also had that. Some have gone back to the map that came on the CD with the VRFID and reported the problem cleared so that's another option. The map that comes with the system is richer at light throttle than my maps and will only return about 34 mpg, that's why I created a leaner map. The problem with these free flowing pipes and my leaner map is this occasional popping or bobble at light throttle.

Lonnie (Smoothrod) has a good map that you could try as a baseline too.
 
#252 ·
KWIKR said:
What book was that???


Understanding Automotive
Electronics (Sixth Edition) by William B. Ribbens

The other thing I didn't take into account was how "free" these pipes are. I'm trying to come up with a way to quiet (restrict the flow) a little.
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#253 ·
Yeah lonnies mapo was good but the advance timing kept my bike hot well I am assuming it was the advance timins was riding two up on some really slow twisties and the damm fans wouldn't ever catch up et was alright though i think but I noticed with MJW's map the bike feels cooler on the boys... man I need to get a temp gauge...
 
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#254 ·
ok I've been looking at my et and in smoothrod4 log posted above at 450 sec my et drops from 90* C to 30* C in under a sec anyone have any ideas what is going on??? I've been looking at all of them a lot of the time my voltage drops from who knows wahat bad ground whatever my et follows and then slowly climbs back up. Also anyone having issues with codes popping up U1016 keeps popping up I thought I read somewhere that this could be an issue but just recently started.
 
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Discussion starter · #255 ·
You have a bad ground or a bad cell in your battery. There are 2 ground straps, one in the front of the motor and one in the rear. Make sure they are all clean and tight as well as the leads from the battery, at the battery and where they terminate.
 
#256 ·
Yeah that is kind of what was thinking too just wanted a more knowledgable opinion before I frickin tore the top off it again.Battery is new so it must be the ground.. Thanks Mark
 
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#257 ·
Okay, I'm missing something. attached are the log from the last trip and the applicable dat file. I'm just not seeing how to apply the BLM tables.

Vinny said:
All you do is highlite the cell you want changed,and type in what afr you want at that throttle% and RPM.
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#258 ·
kfrey95 said:
Okay, I'm missing something. attached are the log from the last trip and the applicable dat file. I'm just not seeing how to apply the BLM tables.
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You have to download the map using pc link from the bike go into edit>3d tables>blm tables> apply blm

follow the path I wrote above after downloading using PC_link not VRFI Log
 
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#259 ·
my only options are fuel trim tables (front and rear) and fuel parameter table (front and rear) as well as copy options. There isn't a BLM selection on the menu.
 
Discussion starter · #260 ·
kfrey95 said:
my only options are fuel trim tables (front and rear) and fuel parameter table (front and rear) as well as copy options. There isn't a BLM selection on the menu.
Click to expand...
Are you using PCLink VRFID Ver. 4.0?

Below is a picture of the menu links to the BLM apply menu options.
 

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