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Discussion starter · #244 ·
Well, I am done for the evening and I fell short of my goals because of at least 3 issues. #1, (my fault), I read the wrong torque value for the bolt that secures the starter motor limit gear and broke it :spank: (I was able to remove it though). When the bolt broke I decided to move to the clutch side and began to rebuild the pack and prepare for the AIM, when I descovered #2, it was only a Barnett extra plate kit I had received, not the Kevlar or Carbon fiber version :bash: . #3, I had done some trading and I wound up without a IAC (Idle Air Control) for the 58mm throttle body.

All of the above issues are pretty simple to rectify in a few days and I will be back on track. In the meantime here is what I was able to accoomplish today:

I prepared the heads with some solder that ran through the spark plug hole and bent it over the valves and bare head area. This technique was shared with me as an easy, reliable way to check the valve clearances and piston squish without having to use something like clay (which is hard to measure) and having to remove the heads to check the results. The results by the way were .090" for the intake valve, .088" for the exhaust and .075" for the squish.

I ran into another Gotcha.... since I was runing 12mm studs on the heads, the nut being used requires a 19mm socket. No big deal until you discover that a 19mm socket won't fit in the access holes!! The heads were removed and once again the Dremel came to the rescue and I opened up the access holes enough to use the socket.

I use another trick that I can up with since I don't have a cam compressor that is called out in the manual. The problem is that the cam timing it done with colored links on the timing chains and marks on the gears that only line up when the from piston is at TDC. Unfortunately that means that the valves are partially under pressure of the cams in that position. My solution was to firgure out the gear, cam and chain locating when the front cams are in a neutal position before the indeal TDC position. Once you have eventhing marked, rotate the motor to that position, loosely install the rear cylinder cam chain, instail the front intake and exhaust cams, the front cam chain tensioner and THEN rotate the motor to the TDC and intall the rear cams. Works Great! Just make sure you find the TDC with the lower cam gear dot in position and then rotate the motor clockwise to position for the front cylinder.

More on the motor in a couple days when I get the required parts.
 

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Its looking mighty fine and thank you for taking the time to share/show/explain the mods that are not in the service manual. It remindes me of a biker publication that once did an article on a cam swap on EVO motors. The way they wrote up the artical it looked so easy that I did my first cam swap without a hitch. After that I did many more. I plan to do my own mods on my s-rod (when money permits) and with members like you showing that it can be done without having to have a tool box of moco tools make it easier to do. Is the girdle the silver plate bolted under the mains? So is next weekend the weekend you fire it up? Randy :notworth: :notworth: :notworth:
 
BLKICE said:
Its looking mighty fine and thank you for taking the time to share/show/explain the mods that are not in the service manual. It reminds me of a biker publication that once did an article on a cam swap on EVO motors. The way they wrote up the article it looked so easy that I did my first cam swap without a hitch. After that I did many more. I plan to do my own mods on my s-rod (when money permits) and with members like you showing that it can be done without having to have a tool box of moco tools make it easier to do. Is the girdle the silver plate bolted under the mains? So is next weekend the weekend you fire it up? Randy :notworth: :notworth: :notworth:
Randy read through this whole post. Frank ain't sitting on no TV repair mans tool chest bro. I don't believe there is any mods he has done that are in the manual. It is a totally one off bitch en Destroyer Destroyer. :notworth:
To be continued.
Welcome to the forum by the way..
 
Discussion starter · #247 ·
BLKICE said:
Is the girdle the silver plate bolted under the mains?
Yes. That is the piece to which I am referring to as a girdle.

BLKICE said:
So is next weekend the weekend you fire it up?
I would say that would be the latest. Hopefully I will have what I need in a couple days and get the motor back in the frame midweek. Even if the rest of the bike is not road ready yet, I can't see how I could wait much longer without at least seeing what she sounds like.
 
Discussion starter · #249 ·
smokenjoe01 said:
Frank I don't know how much of this project your letting out of the bag. So its hard for me to ask if your done with certain body mods? Have you started on that aspect of this build?
I have the bulk of the materials I think I need for that aspect of the build. I hope to have the rough portion of the bodywork complete this week. I won't be hiding anything from this thread, I just did not want to talk much about it until I had pictures to post along with the story.
 
BAD V-R said:
Well, I am done for the evening and I fell short of my goals because of at least 3 issues. #1, (my fault), I read the wrong torque value for the bolt that secures the starter motor limit gear and broke it :spank: (I was able to remove it though). When the bolt broke I decided to move to the clutch side and began to rebuild the pack and prepare for the AIM, when I descovered #2, it was only a Barnett extra plate kit I had received, not the Kevlar or Carbon fiber version :bash: . #3, I had done some trading and I wound up without a IAC (Idle Air Control) for the 58mm throttle body.

All of the above issues are pretty simple to rectify in a few days and I will be back on track. In the meantime here is what I was able to accoomplish today:

I prepared the heads with some solder that ran through the spark plug hole and bent it over the valves and bare head area. This technique was shared with me as an easy, reliable way to check the valve clearances and piston squish without having to use something like clay (which is hard to measure) and having to remove the heads to check the results. The results by the way were .090" for the intake valve, .088" for the exhaust and .075" for the squish.

I ran into another Gotcha.... since I was runing 12mm studs on the heads, the nut being used requires a 19mm socket. No big deal until you discover that a 19mm socket won't fit in the access holes!! The heads were removed and once again the Dremel came to the rescue and I opened up the access holes enough to use the socket.

I use another trick that I can up with since I don't have a cam compressor that is called out in the manual. The problem is that the cam timing it done with colored links on the timing chains and marks on the gears that only line up when the from piston is at TDC. Unfortunately that means that the valves are partially under pressure of the cams in that position. My solution was to firgure out the gear, cam and chain locating when the front cams are in a neutal position before the indeal TDC position. Once you have eventhing marked, rotate the motor to that position, loosely install the rear cylinder cam chain, instail the front intake and exhaust cams, the front cam chain tensioner and THEN rotate the motor to the TDC and intall the rear cams. Works Great! Just make sure you find the TDC with the lower cam gear dot in position and then rotate the motor clockwise to position for the front cylinder.

More on the motor in a couple days when I get the required parts.
Why did you another IAC? You know if you have a Destroyer 58mm throttle body it has the same part # for the IAC as a stock throttle body. I swapped the one out on my 58 and it made no difference. I have a IAC if you need one Frank.

thanks
Brian
 
Discussion starter · #252 ·
BrianVRSCR said:
Why did you another IAC? You know if you have a Destroyer 58mm throttle body it has the same part # for the IAC as a stock throttle body. I swapped the one out on my 58 and it made no difference. I have a IAC if you need one Frank.

thanks
Brian
Brian,

It was just a bit of confusion on an exchange deal I made. The other party is already sending me the IAC.
 
BAD V-R said:
I prepared the heads with some solder that ran through the spark plug hole and bent it over the valves and bare head area. This technique was shared with me as an easy, reliable way to check the valve clearances and piston squish without having to use something like clay (which is hard to measure) and having to remove the heads to check the results. The results by the way were .090" for the intake valve, .088" for the exhaust and .075" for the squish..
I never realized the valve-piston clearance was so tight. Did you measure your combustion chamber volume by filling them with liquid, calculating, or does that even matter to you?
 
Discussion starter · #255 ·
CustomBikeMike said:
I never realized the valve-piston clearance was so tight. Did you measure your combustion chamber volume by filling them with liquid, calculating, or does that even matter to you?
Since the clearances were good (at least .060"), I figure the 12:1 spec on the piston from CP should hold true and there would be no need for measuring the volume at TDC.
 
Discussion starter · #257 ·
Motor and Frame Reunited

Well I did some checking and it turned out the clutch was right so I went ahead and put the new plates and springs in and the installed the AIM Variable Pressure clutch actuator. I also put in the oil pump and stator and closed up the clutch side. I then added the V&H electric water pump.

I could not wait any longer so I went ahead and mounted the motor back in the frame. I have a few things back together, but there is still several hours worth to go.

The end feels a lot closer now that the motor is back in the frame.
 

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