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Thanks! That helps a lot!

There's some detailed information and photos here:
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259457

Make sure the plastic is warm so it isn't real brittle. You're just a bit south of me (I actually work on the IL side of the river but live about 1 ½ hours north of St Louis) so it wouldn't help to set it in the sun. Basically just make sure it isn't cold. Normal room temp will be fine.
I initially used some tin snips to cut away the bulk, you could use a Dremel or what ever for the bulk work. Then trim it to how you want it with a Dremel or hand files (my personal favorite for detail work).
Just read through that thread. Let me know if you need any more info.
Just keep in mind, you are only going to end up with about 10% of what you started with.
 
scorched thats brilliant best one Ive seen yet it does look factory and it follows the lines really nicely from under the bottom of the factory tail light. I would love to see a pic as well of the dogs ass without the plate to see the profile lines. Also how did you cut it with a dremel?
 
Side-mount

All of these look pretty sharp. The DX dogs ass is pretty big comparatively speaking. Can any of you guys help with a part # for the stock side-mount, I can't find it anywhere? Or if anyone has an inexpensive one they would like to get rid of.
 
scorched thats brilliant best one Ive seen yet it does look factory and it follows the lines really nicely from under the bottom of the factory tail light. I would love to see a pic as well of the dogs ass without the plate to see the profile lines. Also how did you cut it with a dremel?

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Here's the link to a thread with a discussion and photos (I have changed the color of my bike)

The best way to cut plastic is with a Dremel utilizing an 1/8th inch drill bit. It will cut side ways and not jack up the plastic. Don't use a Roto-zip bit, it's too hard to control.
For rough cutting, I like to use tin snips or side cutters. For detail work, I use hand files. For finish work sand paper and fire! (Propane torch)

If anyone is close enough to come to my place, I'd be happy to do it for then and take pics along the way. When I did mine I had tried about 3 different ways - this one worked best and was also the easiest in the end.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Can any of you guys help with a part # for the stock side-mount, I can't find it anywhere?
Go here:

http://www.shopronniesharleydavidson.com/OEMpartfinder.htm

Drill down to any of the F models. Then look under "Tail Lamp w/ Rear Turn Signals and License Plate Bracket".

Then, take the part numbers, and go here to cross-compare pricing. Sometimes (usually), it's a fair bit cheaper. Don't forget about shipping charges:

http://shop.newcastlehd.com/content/search-part-number
 
Image


Here's the link to a thread with a discussion and photos (I have changed the color of my bike)

The best way to cut plastic is with a Dremel utilizing an 1/8th inch drill bit. It will cut side ways and not jack up the plastic. Don't use a Roto-zip bit, it's too hard to control.
For rough cutting, I like to use tin snips or side cutters. For detail work, I use hand files. For finish work sand paper and fire! (Propane torch)

If anyone is close enough to come to my place, I'd be happy to do it for then and take pics along the way. When I did mine I had tried about 3 different ways - this one worked best and was also the easiest in the end.
Does that plastic need a backing plate to strengthen ?
 
does this help with the water spray
Yes it does. I got caught in the rain a couple of weeks ago, and I rode all the way home without getting a rooster tail.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
I'm getting ready to do mine. I got the dogs ass in the mail today however instead of the LED frame I'm going to try some LED license bolts. We'll see how that turns out.

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Those work fine (although I prefer the finished look of a frame). One thing to consider (if you're using these with a frame) is to leave enough slack in the wiring that you can remove them and have enough room to install the annual sticker on the plate.

It's a little thing, but irritating. I have the same setup on my Kendon.

R.
 
I'd warn against using those lighted bolts because of clearance issues underneath. If you're bugged out about wires being so close to the tire.

I used this and worked out really nice.

Custom Dynamics LED License Plate Frame - Black LPF-HRZ-B-LP

Look on amazon

Image
 
Those work fine (although I prefer the finished look of a frame). One thing to consider (if you're using these with a frame) is to leave enough slack in the wiring that you can remove them and have enough room to install the annual sticker on the plate.

It's a little thing, but irritating. I have the same setup on my Kendon.

R.
Yeah I can always change it to a frame later if I don't like it. I think I paid $6 for the bolts.

The sticker in Missouri is bi-annual and mine is good until 4/2016. Even then it's lower on the plate so the plate doesn't have to be removed or unbolted to install a new sticker.

As for wiring clearance issues... I'm not worried about that. There are many ways to correct for that.
 
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