It hold 4qts and looks as black as night through the site glass from the 1st moment after the change, there is no stick and there is a gear directly under the cap (also requires a transmission funnel from the 70's to fill it as the cap is buried) so getting a "Stick" etc in there is not happening. I did notice "N" was getting hard to find and changing gears getting sticky about 500 miles before changing so I am going to switch from 5000-5400 miles like I do on my Revo bike to 4600. I do spend more times at 6-7k on this bike that redlines at 9k unlike my other bike that I am usually 4-6k so it it rode "Harder" Thanks for the info.
It doesn't take much soot to make fresh oil turn black. Take couple of ounces of fresh oil and drip a few drops of used oil in and stir. When you change oil make sure the oil is as hot as possible. Let it drain to get as much of the old oil out (hours) before refilling. If you are really concerned, do a flush... change oil, then 50 miles later, change again. It works but is unnecessary, wasteful and expensive.
Looser tolerances allow blow back.
High temperature alone can turn oil black. Try frying some up on the stove sometime. Vegetable oil will cook your chicken at 375F all day long. But on your water cooled VRod those silly fans kick on at 212 I believe. So what temp is the oil running on your air cooled. Get a gauge and find out.
To get maximum performance out of the VRod engine and still meet EPA standards, Harley went water cooled. Look at the difference in emissions as you progress up the ladder of engines from lawnmower up through car and truck to jet engines.
Don't worry. Be Happy. It's just one of those thangs.