SMELLS AND FEELS LIKE OIL RESIDUE AROUND THE TOP OF FRONT SHOCK ONLY ON THE RIGHT SIDE. IS THIS COMMON? HOW HARD IS IT TO CHANGE OR REPAIR? THIS SUCKS NOT PAID FOR YET AND HAVING THIS HAPPEN PLUSS TO TOP IT OFF HAVING SOME KINDA COOLING SYS. PROB HOSE SWELLING UP ... NOT RUNNING HOT FANS COMMING ON BUT DEFINITELY SOMETHING NOT GOOD :banghead:
Fork seal leak ???
nightrodder07
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Joined
·
380 Posts
SMELLS AND FEELS LIKE OIL RESIDUE AROUND THE TOP OF FRONT SHOCK ONLY ON THE RIGHT SIDE. IS THIS COMMON? HOW HARD IS IT TO CHANGE OR REPAIR? THIS SUCKS NOT PAID FOR YET AND HAVING THIS HAPPEN PLUSS TO TOP IT OFF HAVING SOME KINDA COOLING SYS. PROB HOSE SWELLING UP ... NOT RUNNING HOT FANS COMMING ON BUT DEFINITELY SOMETHING NOT GOOD :banghead:
Joined
·
2,647 Posts
Put the bike on your jack and look around the fork leg for any minute scratches...if you have any scratches it will leak. It is possible that the seal is worn...replacement requires a complete tear down. A new seal on a scratched fork leg will not stop the leak. If the fork leg is scratched, it is possible to refinish the fork leg with some fine sandpaper, then replace the seal and you're good to go. If the scratch is too deep, this is not possible. Then, your only option is a new fork leg.
Concerning the hose, it sounds like a dealer repair to me. I'm not sure where your bad hose is, but if it is one of the ones closer to the radiator they are fitted with heat shrink clamps which are different to work with. I'm also not sure whether those hoses with metal lines attached are sold as units or not. If they are, that sounds like an easy replacement to me. If your bike is still under that extended warranty that you probably didn't buy, I'd take it to the dealer and have it repaired for the $50 demand.
I bought the 7 year extended warranty on my '02 and never did use it.
Concerning the hose, it sounds like a dealer repair to me. I'm not sure where your bad hose is, but if it is one of the ones closer to the radiator they are fitted with heat shrink clamps which are different to work with. I'm also not sure whether those hoses with metal lines attached are sold as units or not. If they are, that sounds like an easy replacement to me. If your bike is still under that extended warranty that you probably didn't buy, I'd take it to the dealer and have it repaired for the $50 demand.
I bought the 7 year extended warranty on my '02 and never did use it.
Joined
·
8,671 Posts
Yeah give the fork tube a good look over. Rock nicks will cause weepage and seal by pass. Even something that adheres to the tube and dries hard could damge the seal and evidence be washed off later.
Personally a mild film I'd live with, the alternative is disassembly and replace the seal.
Removal of wheel and brake caliper, remove tube cap while still clamped in trees, watch for spring to pop out as threads disengage, pull out spring and spring spacer, removal of slider to damper screw through access hole in center bottom side of slider, slide chrome wiper retainer and rubber wiper up and off the top of the slider, remove seal retainer ring, then using the slider as it's own slide hammer slide slider up to fully compressed position on tube and rapid pull down, it may take more than once but the lower tube bearing will pull the seal out of the slider top and the slider will come off.
Replace the bearing from the tube bottom while you're at it and put all together in reverse order, add appropriate amount of oil, put spring and spcer back in and compress the crap out of it while trying to start the cap threads and not cross threading it.
Lot's of fun.
Personally a mild film I'd live with, the alternative is disassembly and replace the seal.
Removal of wheel and brake caliper, remove tube cap while still clamped in trees, watch for spring to pop out as threads disengage, pull out spring and spring spacer, removal of slider to damper screw through access hole in center bottom side of slider, slide chrome wiper retainer and rubber wiper up and off the top of the slider, remove seal retainer ring, then using the slider as it's own slide hammer slide slider up to fully compressed position on tube and rapid pull down, it may take more than once but the lower tube bearing will pull the seal out of the slider top and the slider will come off.
Replace the bearing from the tube bottom while you're at it and put all together in reverse order, add appropriate amount of oil, put spring and spcer back in and compress the crap out of it while trying to start the cap threads and not cross threading it.
Lot's of fun.
I have had the residue issue in many bikes including this one and it never gets worse.I wouldn't call it a leak until it starts to run down the tube.Of course I haven't seen it but if its the streaking you get on the fork tube that wipes off and doesn't build up I wouldn't wast the time or money but maybe just watch it.I don't sweat it until it's an obvious problem.Some honest shops will tell you the same thing.A picture would give us a better idea of what you mean.Just MHO.
Joined
·
380 Posts
TKS. GUYS WILL LOOK OVER BETER THIS EVE. AND GATOR I DO IT ON PURPOSE TO PROTEST THE MISCONSEPTION THAT THE TYPED WORD CAN EVEN HAVE A VOLUME ... DUDE IT'S ALL IN YOUR HEAD THERE REALLY IS NO AUDIO IT'S ONLY VIDEO BESIDES IF IT'S TOO LOUD MUTE YOUR SPEAKERS :spank:
Joined
·
11,224 Posts
What do you really think???:rofl:
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
:sinister:
Joined
·
946 Posts
We just changed both seals on my brothers R over the weekend. The inverted front shocks are different to say the least. We spent more time making tools than actually working on the shocks. I made a nice tool to measure the height of the shock fluid once you put it together. I'll take pics if any one is interested.
Joined
·
380 Posts
U R FRIGGIN HOT WHEN UR SINISTER LOL LUV ME SUM V-GRL:spank:
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
:kiss:
Joined
·
1,072 Posts
All what he said and one other important thing. You'll need to make sure you seat the seal fully into the top of the slider. To accomplish this I used a piece of 2 inch ID PVC pipe cut approximately an inch long. Cut this in half so you can put it around the fork leg and gently tap the seal until fully seated. Use a piece of wood or something much softer than the steel fork leg to tap on the PVC ring so as not to damage the fork leg or seal.
You can use a large C-clamp or furniture making clamp to hold the fork tube cap in place while starting the threads. An open end wrench is required for using this method. Right off hand, I can't remember the size.
Good Luck
Joined
·
2,365 Posts
Have a heavy leak too. i even think the oil level is dropped now to the top of the lower leg beacause it stopped. i wanted to see if i could get the seal out whitout taking the whole leg apart but it's more wise to take it all apart. the seal is pretty deep. what i wanted to do second as a bandaid is to take the 'spring' out the seal and snap off 1/8' to make it more thight and remount but i dont think i can reach it at all beeing mounted...
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
