Rinehart Installation

RF_R_US · Dec 5, 2008

So long story short. Bub finally called me back and told me that since the vendor had ground on the pipe they wouldn't warranty it arrrrggggg!!!! I called the vendor and apparently they didn't modify the original "bad" pipe and said the photos I posted above were from a 2nd pipe! Hard to believe in a way as they sure looked like the same pipe to me. Anyway the vendor is doing the right thing and I'm returning the pipe and HD bracket postage paid for a refund. Now I'm looking at a D&D pipe P/N 495-32B that Sharkey is looking into for me. I guess they or he may be able to add the O2 sensors for me and rechrome it. Has anobody got a 2:1 like the D&D or any other brand with dual O2 sensors that you like? Apparently the D&D 495-32B fits with the stock "R" hardware! Yeah, that's good and I would have made a bracket for the Rinehart but the quality of the chrome just wasn't what I wanted.

John (still looking for a pipe now that I have my Thundermax)

RF_R_US · Dec 6, 2008

So I'm thinking about keeping the Rinehart and doing all the mods as mentioned. Does anybody think the pipe is OK as shown in the photos? I'm concerned it's going to rust everytime I wash it from the lack of plating on the flange edge.

John

RF_R_US · Dec 7, 2008

OK, so I decided to be a "man" and make this pipe work. :dance: Actually I only decided to go for it after finding no other 2:1 pipes that had the dual O2 sensors I need for my Thundermax, so let's do some garage engineering eh ? When I removed my stock system I saw more rust than I want to discuss and my header flange nuts were very loose, so let's put on a new system, use some decent loctite and safety wire and make it work better than stock. Tom is absolutely correct as the brake pedal needs to be moved outboard and I need to figure out how much as I don't want to stress the headers mount to the cylinders. See attached photos showing lack of clearance for brake pedal and need to fabricate something to hang the muffler on with some allowance for the engine vibration. He needed a few beers, I might need a Vodka Tonic but we'll come to the same conclusion.

Darn, have to get ready to go on a biz trip for two weeks (your iPhones will work better after I finish this job) and the holidays, may not be able to finish this project until January, oh well.

Cheers,

John

Oh yeah, check the photos of the O2 fittings, it looks like the sensors will fit no problem. The only other major interference is the rear header heat shield gets VERY close to the frame, I hope that doesn't burn the paint but we can put some spark plug insulation on it if required and paint it black (real race bike look). Any feedback from you other guys running this pipe will be appreciated.

Schoen · Dec 7, 2008

RF_R_US said:
...the brake pedal needs to be moved outboard...

As will the master cylinder (or else the rear brake will lock up on your first test ride).

RF_R_US said:
...and I need to figure out how much as I don't want to stress the headers mount to the cylinders...

Quarter inch. See my gallery for pics of spacers, brake pedal cut out, and final clearance

RF_R_US · Dec 7, 2008

Shane, I should give you credit as well, sorry 'bout that. Yes, your pics look like a total outboard install of 1/4" or so on the brake. Do you have any good pics of your muffler mount ? I'm an engineer so I'm not against copying good designs ;-)

Cheers,

John (soon to be a member of the very small Rinehart "R" club)

RF_R_US · Dec 7, 2008

Also have any of you guys had the header nuts loosen up ? Mine on the stock exhaust were very loose, it amazed me. I'm planning on drilling some stainless nuts and safety wiring them (sorry it's an old racing habit).

John

CPTJAM · Dec 7, 2008

John, Header nuts are frequently loose - lock tight is your friend! Look in the BUB 7 thread - the two pipes are very similar; I used aluminum stock to make the support bracket. watch for clearance on the end of the pipe, hittling the swingarm. Michael has a very close fit on his. Justin did, too. I have not seen Brian's in person. I have seen No BUB 7 on an R. Thanks for the pictures, and keep us posted on your solution. Joe

Schoen · Dec 7, 2008

RF_R_US said:
...Do you have any good pics of your muffler mount?

The eighth pic in my gallery is the best I've got. You can't see the top of the bracket though. It's a solid mount with the pipe secured by only one bolt (hole is in the top left of the bracket). Seems to work fine.

Schoen · Dec 7, 2008

CPTJAM said:
...watch for clearance on the end of the pipe, hittling the swingarm. Michael has a very close fit on his. Justin did, too.

My RH 2-1 was installed after the 14.25" works performance rear shocks were installed (which gets the swingarm closer to horizontal) and I have no swingarm clearance problems.

Beer.Tom.Rod · Dec 7, 2008

RH Install

Sorry I've been away and haven't been able to throw in my 2 bits

Yes, I used a piece of rubber for the shock mount, it was 3/8" thick and compressed some when tightened. I used some nylock nuts so it wouldn't back off. All has held pretty well to date.
I have up loaded the pics of my brake pedal mod in the new gallery. I think most items have been covered by the other guys who have been through this (thanks again to those trailblazers). I have sent John a couple of pm's.
One thing I found that aided in the brake pedal clearance is that when you install the long bolt that holds the brake pedal/footpeg on, there was a small gap between the bracket that the rear brake cylinder was mounted to and the actual frame of the bike. So when you tightened it all up it actually pulled the whole assem. tighter into the exhaust. I put 2 washers between the bike frame and the brake cylinder mount (this took some patients and fancy fingering

)and then when I tightened all, my clearance remained very good. I ended up with a good 1/4" in the end.
On the swing arm clearance I found that when I made my bracket, I didn't drill the holes for where the bracket came off the pipe and mounted to the frame bracket until the very end so I could space the clearance the way I wanted before I tightened everything up. I mounted all the other parts, then tightened the exhaust flange to the engine last. After all was done I ended up with about 1/2" clearance with no load on bike and a good 1/4 to 3/8" when I'm sitting on it (I'm @ 235lbs). Even with my 150lb son on the bike there is still lots of clearance.
Good Luck and carry on!
Beer.Tom :cheers:

boerod · Dec 11, 2008

Has anyone tried heating up the brake pedal and bending it to get the clearance needed?

BayouRuler · Dec 11, 2008

boerod said:
Has anyone tried heating up the brake pedal and bending it to get the clearance needed?

I would advise against that. The metal may become brittle if you heat it and later fail.

Dale "R" · Dec 11, 2008

Has anyone tried heating up the brake pedal and bending it to get the clearance needed?

I did because I had one that was pushed in too far from a crash. I only was able to bend it back straight before I gave up. I'm sure you can bend it more , but its easier to just space it out with thick washers. You have to do some grinding on the footpeg side of the brake pedal so you can space it out with the washers.

CPTJAM · Dec 18, 2008

Dale "R" said:
I did because I had one that was pushed in too far from a crash. I only was able to bend it back straight before I gave up. I'm sure you can bend it more , but its easier to just space it out with thick washers. You have to do some grinding on the footpeg side of the brake pedal so you can space it out with the washers.

Dale,
Can you post a pic of how you did it? Thanks! Joe

Dale "R" · Dec 18, 2008

Dale,
Can you post a pic of how you did it? Thanks! Joe

Spacing it out or heating it up and bending it?

Dale "R" · Dec 19, 2008

There are some good pictures in Schoen's gallery showing where to cut or grind the brake pedal. I pretty much did the same thing. I'm in the process of pulling my exhaust off so I can post up a picture of my bracket and the brake pedal this weekend when I get it apart.

RF_R_US · Dec 19, 2008

Dale "R" said:
There are some good pictures in Schoen's gallery showing where to cut or grind the brake pedal. I pretty much did the same thing. I'm in the process of pulling my exhaust off so I can post up a picture of my bracket and the brake pedal this weekend when I get it apart.

It would be really great to see another mod, all the detail we can get helps the "R" tribe! I'll be back home to CO late tomorrow after two grueling weeks of work in NJ and can hardly wait. Once I spend the obligatory time w/g-friend, next on the list will be getting the Rinehart on the "R". I'll be posting pics as my install progresses.

John

:notworth:

Rinehart Installation

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Attachments

Schoen

RF_R_US

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Beer.Tom.Rod

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Dale "R"

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Dale "R"

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