2003 VROD - Slipper Clutch Install - Page 2 - 1130cc.com: The #1 Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum
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Old 07-26-2018, 03:18 PM   #16
rbabos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hedgehanter View Post
I know those CAPS, although cannot see anything related to removing them in the service manual. I can see the adjustment marks and dots in the manual for the top end though so I suppose there is the secondary cam chain, since the primary chain is in the bottom.
Sorry for being a tick-head I have no experience with the engine parts of the bike.
Maybe this will help. #2 4 5 are static shoes. 1 and 3 are hydro but the #3 are mechanically preset with shims to adjust the chain. Then the hydraulics keep the tension on from there. See the primary tensioner for the primary chain and the secondaries for the cam chains? Secondary tensioner shim setting is done with that cyl on TDCC. Tensioner taken out, tool installed in place and read the notches for amount of shims needed. Add shim (s) to secondary unit and install into head. This tool is all but impossible to find but I lucked out.
Ron
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:16 PM   #17
hedgehanter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbabos View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by hedgehanter View Post
I know those CAPS, although cannot see anything related to removing them in the service manual. I can see the adjustment marks and dots in the manual for the top end though so I suppose there is the secondary cam chain, since the primary chain is in the bottom.
Sorry for being a tick-head I have no experience with the engine parts of the bike. <img src="https://www.1130cc.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smilie" class="inlineimg" />
Maybe this will help. #2 4 5 are static shoes. 1 and 3 are hydro but the #3 are mechanically preset with shims to adjust the chain. Then the hydraulics keep the tension on from there. See the primary tensioner for the primary chain and the secondaries for the cam chains? Secondary tensioner shim setting is done with that cyl on TDCC. Tensioner taken out, tool installed in place and read the notches for amount of shims needed. Add shim (s) to secondary unit and install into head. This tool is all but impossible to find but I lucked out.
Ron
This is clear cheers, altough it seems this will be done by the garage if needed..
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Old 08-02-2018, 04:01 PM   #18
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I have to say this clutch is something, the shifting is so smooth, finding neutral is easy, clutch lever way softer, very precise. I could not go to a long ride since I have no fluid in the radiator, but as a test it was very impressive.
Probably my old one was crap as well, I will take it apart just to see but as a first impression I`m very satisfied.
thanks for the help to you all!
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Old 08-05-2018, 04:08 PM   #19
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I took her out for a long drive and noticed a strange thing, 1 out of 10 shifts the clutch wont engage. Mostly going to first and from 1st to 2nd, I just simply cant change gear, also can hear the gears grinding if I try to force it from 1st to second. Letting the lever go and pull again fixes it. When I got home I started to pull the clutch to see if I can hear the actuator pushing and yes no issues then. The line was bled 3 weeks ago, but it works 9 out of 10 anyway so I dont think there is an issue there.
Any ideas?
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Old 08-05-2018, 05:52 PM   #20
rbabos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hedgehanter View Post
I took her out for a long drive and noticed a strange thing, 1 out of 10 shifts the clutch wont engage. Mostly going to first and from 1st to 2nd, I just simply cant change gear, also can hear the gears grinding if I try to force it from 1st to second. Letting the lever go and pull again fixes it. When I got home I started to pull the clutch to see if I can hear the actuator pushing and yes no issues then. The line was bled 3 weeks ago, but it works 9 out of 10 anyway so I dont think there is an issue there.
Any ideas?
OK, so here's my long winded take on the matter. I suspect you meant it feels like the clutch won't disengage. Sounds like a typical 1st to second shift to me. I generally shift slower into second from first in normal easy riding. Almost like hit neutral then slip into second or like a slower shift sequence. If I get more aggressive, then yes there's a mini grind going in. It's the only gear that does it and none of the others either up or down. Some of this is design based and the gear speeds for shift dog engagement that cause that mini grind at certain rpm and rolling speeds.
All of the v rods I've ridden do this and all of them had slippers but I don't feel there's an actual connection to the clutch unless the locking ramps haven't quite released in a quick first to second shift. That's also a possible reason. All I know is if you hit neutral then second rather then ram through neutral there is no grind. Maybe that's just enough time for the clutch ramp to release. So, it could be a combo of both second gear design and speeds or the clutch ramping keeping a small amount of pressure on the plates so you almost do a mini clutchless shift. In either case, it's normal and no Amsoil will not cure it. LOL
Ron
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Old 08-06-2018, 03:56 AM   #21
hedgehanter
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Originally Posted by rbabos View Post
OK, so here's my long winded take on the matter. I suspect you meant it feels like the clutch won't disengage. Sounds like a typical 1st to second shift to me. I generally shift slower into second from first in normal easy riding. Almost like hit neutral then slip into second or like a slower shift sequence. If I get more aggressive, then yes there's a mini grind going in. It's the only gear that does it and none of the others either up or down. Some of this is design based and the gear speeds for shift dog engagement that cause that mini grind at certain rpm and rolling speeds.
All of the v rods I've ridden do this and all of them had slippers but I don't feel there's an actual connection to the clutch unless the locking ramps haven't quite released in a quick first to second shift. That's also a possible reason. All I know is if you hit neutral then second rather then ram through neutral there is no grind. Maybe that's just enough time for the clutch ramp to release. So, it could be a combo of both second gear design and speeds or the clutch ramping keeping a small amount of pressure on the plates so you almost do a mini clutchless shift. In either case, it's normal and no Amsoil will not cure it. LOL
Ron
Yes, I meant disengage. I check what the locking ramp is, and see what that does, just for my own curiosity. I will give it a go and see if the theory stands when riding. I might have to change my shifting style for this new clutch, although this feels completely different than my previous one, not sure why. With the old one I could hardly shift when above 5K RPM, also shifting was so hard my boots were denting at the toe end. What about Repsol, would that cure it? (just kidding)
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Old 08-06-2018, 09:12 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hedgehanter View Post
Yes, I meant disengage. I check what the locking ramp is, and see what that does, just for my own curiosity. I will give it a go and see if the theory stands when riding. I might have to change my shifting style for this new clutch, although this feels completely different than my previous one, not sure why. With the old one I could hardly shift when above 5K RPM, also shifting was so hard my boots were denting at the toe end. What about Repsol, would that cure it? (just kidding)
By all means , experiment. I now generally short shift to second if not in a hurry and seldom get get that grind. That can bring in another quirk. If not positive in the shift enough, neutral will be hit instead.Lol
Ron
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