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Old 08-29-2018, 11:32 AM   #16
Russ
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Actually the shaft doesn’t look too bad, no noticeable scoring, smooth finish. I think that in this case, the softer bronze or brass took most of the wear.

As for getting my computer challenged dealer to to search for a part, is like pulling teeth. Which is why I give them the part number to punch in. Even at that, the contortion on their faces suggests a high degree of apprehension and stress.
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Old 08-29-2018, 12:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Actually the shaft doesn’t look too bad, no noticeable scoring, smooth finish. I think that in this case, the softer bronze or brass took most of the wear.

As for getting my computer challenged dealer to to search for a part, is like pulling teeth. Which is why I give them the part number to punch in. Even at that, the contortion on their faces suggests a high degree of apprehension and stress.
I hear you. It taxes their brains. As for the bronze, two come to mind. Aluminum bronze which is harder or Silcone bronze. There are others as well. Depends on the heat treatment on the shaft. If heat treated to a reasonable amount the Aluminum bronze would still be the sacrificial part. Either will work but curious what your machinist suggests either from life experiences or the almighty machinist hand book.
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Old 08-29-2018, 05:53 PM   #18
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Playin' the Revo " OH it's a V Rod " pretty please parts game.

I've got my empty 1250 cases on the engine stand and my bushings look OK but I won't know for sure until I take my 1130 cases apart and put the shaft in and check the play. I ordered a couple tools from H-D for my engine and when I go pick them up I'll have the parts Mgr. run the #'s Ron provided and see what pops up - all I can tell you is they use a separate computer for the H-D.net searches for out of production parts and they provide a list of dealers that show stock, then you have to call the dealers individually to ask if they have it. And yes, they normally give me a funny look on their face as there's really nothing in it for them as I'm are buying the parts directly from another dealer. I found it's best for me to ask when picking up parts I ordered prior and when they're not busy ( Sunday afternoon )
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Old 08-29-2018, 06:02 PM   #19
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I hate to think you would need to replace the case halves, but considering the damage
$1740 if they can still be had, this p/n 24444-02K is for a 2002 VRSCA, your needs may vary
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Old 08-29-2018, 06:46 PM   #20
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One would assume that a vehicle manufacturer is required to carry parts for 10-years after end of production, or in the VRSC case, only 2017. MOCO shirking their responsibility doesn't exactly endear brand loyalty, knowing that any model you buy, MOCO will drop support the instant it suits them.

Here MOCO apparently failed to give one simple brass bushing a damn part number and account for it on a drawing somewhere. They only had 17-years to catch their mistake, but obviously never gave a shit about anything rivaling their ancient push-rod air-cooled, made-in-China, assemble in USA junk. No wonder dealership floors are still stocked with last year's models.

But luckily, it shouldn't be too difficult to turn one of these brass parts on a decent lathe. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, placing my trust in my local seasoned machinist. I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Old 08-29-2018, 07:50 PM   #21
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Isn't that just part of the water pump housing(part #12 26750-01K)? Search for some housing images and compare what you pulled off. This may belong to it.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:00 PM   #22
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Isn't that just part of the water pump housing(part #12 26750-01K)? Search for some housing images and compare what you pulled off. This may belong to it.
My searches on 26750-01K suggest this is just the water pump housing and impeller assembly It does not contain anything pertaining to the water pump / triple sprocket drive shaft or bushing pressed into the crankcase. That part still remains a mystery.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:16 PM   #23
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Sorry about that. I was envisioning the wrong side of the case.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:40 PM   #24
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Negative Daibutsu - the bushings are installed in the inner primary upper case and support the most important shaft (other than the crankshaft or the camshafts ) in the engine. I just looked at mine and see the P/N on the right side bushing visible (no oil holes) and on the left (two oil holes). As far as parts are concerned Russ - ( and for everyone ) if you wanna go longtime with your Revo engine and V Rod buy what you think you will need NOW. You will be pulling out of existing inventory but I really don't think H-D has any intention of ordering, supporting or manufacturing any new replacement parts for this engine or this model bike, other than wear items like brake pads, tires, belts, grips, etc. You just bought a new Muscle or Night Rod ? Tough Crap on parts in 10 years - I just don't see it happening as they are Hardly available now. ( seems right since according to some old idiots its " Hardly a Davidson " They never appreciated a bike that NEVER broke, unfortunately - and don't appreciate true quality when it's hitting them opt side the head.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:46 PM   #25
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It's not really a mystery - Pecee & ron already gave you the P/N's, and I've confirmed it - it's just a matter of finding them in the H-D system somewhere out there.
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Old 08-29-2018, 09:20 PM   #26
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Water pump shaft brass bushing Part No. ?

Is this bushing about 2” in OD
35442-01K is the corresponding p/n I got from my local
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:58 AM   #27
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They are a hat bushing approx. .95 I.D. and 1.6" O.D. My real question is what other damage is in the engine Russ ? Crankshaft, cams and gearbox bearings OK ? It may be less expensive and less hassle to source another low mileage 1130 or 1250 engine - unfortunately.
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Old 08-30-2018, 12:39 PM   #28
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They are a hat bushing approx. .95 I.D. and 1.6" O.D. My real question is what other damage is in the engine Russ ? Crankshaft, cams and gearbox bearings OK ? It may be less expensive and less hassle to source another low mileage 1130 or 1250 engine - unfortunately.
Nothing survived apart from the crankcase and gears. I'm replacing all bearings, bushings and cam chains just to be on the safe side, whatever nook and cranny were deposits could be hiding. I've been slowly collecting replacement parts, some used, some new, and this little brass bushing is the one anomaly I ran into. I'm hoping my local machine shop is able to fabricate one and press it back into the engine case, a bushing not heavily loaded since it's being pulled in 3 directions by the triple sprocket.

But the main thing he'll do is ultrasonic clean and soda blast the crankcase for me, hopefully removing as much of the leftover abrasive residue as possible. After he does that and the aluminum thoroughly de-greased, I'm planning to Glyptal 1201 the sand-cast areas inside the crankcase as a extra layer of defense; not taking any chances that abrasives could still leach out of the porous aluminum.

Boring the upper case to accept the new 1250 liners will obviously deposit metal shavings everywhere, but I think that cleanup is more manageable with pressure washing or however Fitzgerald does it.
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Old 08-30-2018, 03:38 PM   #29
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id be sure to make sure nothing has lodged it the spray jets feeding bottom of cylinders.very difficult to ensure they are clean once blocked.
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Old 08-30-2018, 05:09 PM   #30
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Russ that so seriously SUCKS ! I've read of this happening before here on the site but it's just hard to imagine where enough abrasives hid out then got in the oil - you think it was in the clutch cover or alternator cover mainly ? I bought some nice used 1250 cases but I think the engine lost a rod bearing due to copper looking residue in the sump & crank area so I figured I'd flush all the passages out. Like pecee said the cylinder/piston/rod spray jets need special attention, and I don't know of a better way but my plan was to slip some clear nylon tubing over each jet fill and back flush carefully with mineral spirits and clean nitrogen pressure. Also hot water and soap is recommended to flush out honing debris in cylinders as it opens the pores in the metal - that might be a good idea or have the cases steam cleaned prior to your other cleanings. Don't think I would coat anything inside the cases if it could puddle out of sight and/or peel or break off later - and plug the jets or other issues. A good double or triple cleaning I would think is enough. Best of luck in your repairs !
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