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Old 07-14-2019, 03:44 PM   #61
knight rod rob
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Ok fellows here it is. Looks to me like Harley sold me a bad bearing.
Notice the damage is only on the inner race. The ball bearings were ok. Only two were scuffed up.(these scuffs were from when I cut races) Lube quality would not show up like this. Shelf life is a big deal when it comes to bearings. The bearing is made in Germany. Now you would have to figure it travels over here and sits for who knows how long before it sells. Anyway I can also see in the case where all the action is, to the rear and u can see slight fretting there, not much. I seen it there the last time. I caught the bearing failure earlier this time before it knocked the seal out and damaged the outer race like the earlier pic. You may also notice the pin in the race is still there indicating no real force was there. The last time the pin was broken. Bearing #Germany NWG 4305BTQ300C3. I plan to see if we have one made here. If anyone is interested I can send pics of the wear etc and some other parts I have a question or two about.

Last edited by knight rod rob; 07-14-2019 at 03:46 PM. Reason: scuffs on ball bearings
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Old 07-14-2019, 04:10 PM   #62
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The oil pressure was max is 75 when cold. And about 55 to 58 when hot crusing. 28 to 30 at hot idle. And the 30t is what I need for what I do. The engine does not seemed to be as stressed. I like it. I run a lot of expressway at speed. The end.
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Old 07-14-2019, 05:59 PM   #63
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very unusual to get a new in bag faulty bearing.are you sure you didn't load the outer race when pressing it on to shaft?is the shaft size exactly correct?
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Old 07-15-2019, 02:19 PM   #64
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Bad from H-D stock Trans output Bearings - Yes it's True.

Pecee I thought the same thing unfortunately I proved the "bad from the bag" bearing ( that KRRob suspected) on my earlier post by going out in my garage and opening my new H-D sealed package P/N 8028K bearing - when slowly spun it felt perfect and I thought it was perfect UNTIL I washed out the preservative grease with WD40. Now the bearing could be spun much faster and a " tick-tick " could be felt. Inspection with a mini mag light & 10X magnifier revealed dents in all the ball bearings, probably from the assembly procedure of pressing the double race bearing together by the German "NWG" Mfg. - one reason why they are out of business. In any event I ordered a new bearing Sunday and told the parts Mgr. that when it arrives I'll open it up on the parts counter, wash it out, inspect it, show it to him and return it right there if it's bad from stock. Showed him the bad from stock one. He won't stand behind that one I bought many months ago but if this next bearing's bad I'm contacting H-D Quality Control and let them know they are stocking and selling defective bearings and costing their customers engine failures and necessary dis-assemblies due to bearing metallic junk contaminating the oil, oil pump and gearbox. I know I know they probably don't care but if the output bearing locks up when your'e trying to get across traffic you could end up under a truck. Anyone assembling a Revo engine needs to inspect the old bearing if reused or especially a new bearing in the way described or they are just tossing the dice and taking a big chance at ruining an engine at the very least and/or throwing away probably 80 Man hours of work and weeks of riding and $ fixing it, or worse yet an accident, with possible pain & suffering, or worse - IMHO.
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Old 07-15-2019, 05:33 PM   #65
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Pecee I thought the same thing unfortunately I proved the "bad from the bag" bearing ( that KRRob suspected) on my earlier post by going out in my garage and opening my new H-D sealed package P/N 8028K bearing - when slowly spun it felt perfect and I thought it was perfect UNTIL I washed out the preservative grease with WD40. Now the bearing could be spun much faster and a " tick-tick " could be felt. Inspection with a mini mag light & 10X magnifier revealed dents in all the ball bearings, probably from the assembly procedure of pressing the double race bearing together by the German "NWG" Mfg. - one reason why they are out of business. In any event I ordered a new bearing Sunday and told the parts Mgr. that when it arrives I'll open it up on the parts counter, wash it out, inspect it, show it to him and return it right there if it's bad from stock. Showed him the bad from stock one. He won't stand behind that one I bought many months ago but if this next bearing's bad I'm contacting H-D Quality Control and let them know they are stocking and selling defective bearings and costing their customers engine failures and necessary dis-assemblies due to bearing metallic junk contaminating the oil, oil pump and gearbox. I know I know they probably don't care but if the output bearing locks up when your'e trying to get across traffic you could end up under a truck. Anyone assembling a Revo engine needs to inspect the old bearing if reused or especially a new bearing in the way described or they are just tossing the dice and taking a big chance at ruining an engine at the very least and/or throwing away probably 80 Man hours of work and weeks of riding and $ fixing it, or worse yet an accident, with possible pain & suffering, or worse - IMHO.
Pretty sure the classic HD response will be... "first time I heard of that or never seen that before".The more I look at those pics, I have to wonder if the heat treatment on the inner was botched. Looks like hard and soft areas. Seeing the outer and Rob mentioning the balls being in good shape, leads me in that direction. Either way it sucks and unfortunately no way to know ahead of time.
Ron
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:09 PM   #66
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Bearing the Stress ? -

True Ron, True. Rob did say though that two of the bearing balls were damaged. The inner race is certainly trashed but what I can't wrap my head around is how there is a short area on the inner race that looks perfect ! Obviously the damaged balls weren't rolling or skidding over that area and if they were it must have been either a harder area as you suggested or a like thought is that the damaged balls jammed on the softer inner race and the whole pack of balls ( some still good ) was rotating as a dis-functional group with the inner race around the outer race. Sounds crazy but I've heard of bearings "skidding" and this might be a great example of it. All I can say is if anyone inspects their new bearing and they see any damage marks on any of the bearing balls (like I did) it must be rejected. Nothing good will come of a bearing with damage imprints on the face of the balls. You can repack it with grease and feel good about it but that will be washed out by the oil eventually and just piss off your clutch. If this second bearing from H-D is good I'll run it, if not I'll revert to the Locktite approach on a new SKF non outer race lock pin bearing that was mentioned earlier and never look back. Another thought is after the new engine is in the bike and serviced with oil lay it slowly over on its left side to allow the engines lower oil level to get up into that higher double row bearing before it's started - it might help lube it until the gears start spinning and begin throwing oil into the bearing (since there is no pressure lube on this left output shaft bearing.)
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Old 08-01-2019, 02:23 AM   #67
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No just start it up w/o the belt on it. Let it idle a bit. That should do it. The motorcycle oil additive is something I strongly recommend. The engine seems quieter for sure and the temp is definitely more steady in this heat.
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