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Old 07-05-2019, 09:00 PM   #1
Garyfack
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On the path to a Trask Turbo...

Hey guys!!!

as the title reads i have some money coming in around sept and would like to set my bike up now, little by little to accept the turbo... the end goal would be to have as much HP and torque i can without blowing engine firstly and without opening the cases, so straight cut 2nd gears, cam upgrade, and piston / head work im leaning away from unless they are absolutely necessary for longevity of the ride

2012 VRSCF
Power Commander V

so my list of upgrades I want to get in order i was planning on getting them, id like some input if I'm going the wrong way or need to choose different parts or don't really need them (maybe they come with the kit?). no sense in wasting money right?!

  1. PC autotune
  2. PC powershifter
  3. billet oil pan and engine brace from fitzgerald
  4. clutch basket from fitzgerald
  5. trask fuel pump, injectors, and fuel rail
  6. 58mm throttle body work from fitzgerald
  7. turbo kit from trask
  8. dyno

i see on Trask that they want me to have the Thundermask, but i really would like the powershifter from DynoJet unless there's another powershifter out there (honestly haven't checked that out yet). also since i'm techy if i cant do the PC-V i'd like the FuelPak 3 from Vance n Hines since i can adjust things from my phone on the fly. so as far as far as the tuners go id like to have PC-V, then Fuel Pak 3, and lastly another type...

so i guess to end the thread start... Am i on the right path? Do i need to adjust anything? do you have alternatives that work well with the power house from Trask?

Thank you for your time
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Old 07-07-2019, 12:14 AM   #2
ozzie21
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Ready for Turbo

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyfack View Post
Hey guys!!!

as the title reads i have some money coming in around sept and would like to set my bike up now, little by little to accept the turbo... the end goal would be to have as much HP and torque i can without blowing engine firstly and without opening the cases, so straight cut 2nd gears, cam upgrade, and piston / head work im leaning away from unless they are absolutely necessary for longevity of the ride

2012 VRSCF
Power Commander V

so my list of upgrades I want to get in order i was planning on getting them, id like some input if I'm going the wrong way or need to choose different parts or don't really need them (maybe they come with the kit?). no sense in wasting money right?!

  1. PC autotune
  2. PC powershifter
  3. billet oil pan and engine brace from fitzgerald
  4. clutch basket from fitzgerald
  5. trask fuel pump, injectors, and fuel rail
  6. 58mm throttle body work from fitzgerald
  7. turbo kit from trask
  8. dyno

i see on Trask that they want me to have the Thundermask, but i really would like the powershifter from DynoJet unless there's another powershifter out there (honestly haven't checked that out yet). also since i'm techy if i cant do the PC-V i'd like the FuelPak 3 from Vance n Hines since i can adjust things from my phone on the fly. so as far as far as the tuners go id like to have PC-V, then Fuel Pak 3, and lastly another type...

so i guess to end the thread start... Am i on the right path? Do i need to adjust anything? do you have alternatives that work well with the power house from Trask?

Thank you for your time
Check out my posts on this forum. I think just about everything I did can be found in different posts I have. Related to your list here's mine;
1) ThunderMax tuner. This is the one that Trask uses for almost all their turbos. It's good. Get it.
2) Pingel Electric Shifter. Also very good.
3) Trask engine brace & Trask Billet Oil Pan.
4) Trask ARP Engine Bolt Kit.
5) Upgraded clutch pack from Trask. Same H-D clutch basket is fine.
6) Trask fuel pump, injectors, and fuel rail.
7) Trask 58mm throttle body.
8) Trask Turbo Kit.
9) Dyno tuned at Trask in Phoenix to 165 RWHP & if I recall around 117 RWTQ. Good reliable dependable power. Bulletproof.
This is a good combination. I had a lot of additional mods. Check my posts. And you are on the right track.
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Old 07-08-2019, 02:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzie21 View Post
Check out my posts on this forum. I think just about everything I did can be found in different posts I have. Related to your list here's mine;
1) ThunderMax tuner. This is the one that Trask uses for almost all their turbos. It's good. Get it.
2) Pingel Electric Shifter. Also very good.
3) Trask engine brace & Trask Billet Oil Pan.
4) Trask ARP Engine Bolt Kit.
5) Upgraded clutch pack from Trask. Same H-D clutch basket is fine.
6) Trask fuel pump, injectors, and fuel rail.
7) Trask 58mm throttle body.
8) Trask Turbo Kit.
9) Dyno tuned at Trask in Phoenix to 165 RWHP & if I recall around 117 RWTQ. Good reliable dependable power. Bulletproof.
This is a good combination. I had a lot of additional mods. Check my posts. And you are on the right track.

My thoughts/opinion:

1. Thundermax.....junk. Either a DTT or better yet get a PowerVision and find a real tuner that knows how to scale map values within a 1 bar table for boost (it's totally possible/done with great success).

2. Pingel: You drag racing? If not, consider the fact that it's about a grand just for that shifter. For the street, completely not needed.

3. Engine brace and oil pan: Engine brace...ok. The engine braces left on the market are decent....the "good" ones are long gone (Kaarza and HolyMoto) unfortunately. Can't hurt, but not ideal. The oil pan? Not needed (and if I recall it reduces ground clearance a bit).

4. ARP kit: At your boost levels (i.e. stock Trask kit) you won't be lifting heads or stressing stock rod bolts.

5. Clutch: Barnett carbon kit and IF you can score a billet basket even better.

6. Fuel pump/injectors/rail: There are many plug and play injectors available for our bikes...no need for the "upgraded" rail.

7. 58mm throttle body: Don't. Tons of reasons all over this forum.

8. Trask turbo kit: Now this is MY opinion...but that "kit" is really low end. The lack of true fabrication and fitment speaks for itself. IF I was going the turbo route on these bikes (and I think that should only be if you are drag racing, otherwise the superchargers make more sense on the street) I'd look into a custom build. It will likely cost the same in the end and be built to a much higher level of quality and sensibility (sideways intercooler anyone...I digress).

9. Dyno: Ask around (the forums and in the real world) what level of spark knock the turbo guys are seeing. You'll find out real quickly that few shops that tune bikes know what that means and worse have no way to detect it because most of the turbo guys chose the "better" aftermarket ecms (you can hear my sarcasm right?). Search the forums on this...I have preached enough on this for a few days of reading.
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Old 07-08-2019, 03:44 PM   #4
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Yes there are supposed to be turbo and supercharger kits that give you a bit more output, I won't debate that. The intercooler for the Trask V-Rod turbo kit isn't mounted to give the best intake cooling. It would best mounted more directly into the wind, so-to-speak. But I believe the Trask kit was designed to give good HP & TQ increases while maintaining reliability and rideability. I also have a Street Glide with 120R motor, a Trask turbo, also tuned by Trask in Phoenix. Its got 165 RWHP & 165 RWTQ and has proven to be super reliable. I have never had any issues at all with either my turbo Muscle or my Street Glide. I also have a Pingel shifter on my Street Glide and I had a Pingel shifter on the hotrod dual plugged, FLHS I had before that. Agreed the Pingel shifter is totally unnecessary for the street but is a lot of fun. On my turbo FLHX I also have the Pingel auto-shift module that up-shifts the bike automatically when I hit 6300 RPM. Just WOT and hang on. The bike up-shifts itself. Also unnecessary but a blast.
ThunderMax...junk? I never had any issues. I don't like self-tuning modules because guys believe they can just plug-and-play and all is really really good. Not so. Yes they'll self-tune to some degree so you don't blow up your engine but tuning to get the best from your mods is always done with a dyno tune. I had a Screamin' Eagle Pro Super Tuner on my Muscle and also on my FLHX which I removed and replaced with the ThunderMax tuners. I believe they could have been tuned for the turbo system but Trask always uses the Thundermax so I went with that. I still have the SE Pro Super Tuners with the ECU's they're married to if anyone might be interested.
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:00 PM   #5
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Thanks ozzie for your insight, the entire trask line does seem like they have it covered. and Pheonix is only 14 hrs from me so its doable but what if you wanted to go more boost, could you with the trask. I'd like to possibly push 200HP

Freudie
Quote:
1. Thundermax.....junk. Either a DTT or better yet get a PowerVision and find a real tuner that knows how to scale map values within a 1 bar table for boost (it's totally possible/done with great success).
everytime i look for tuners i have a difficult time findid the tunres that have a pressure sensor add on...

Quote:
2. Pingel: You drag racing? If not, consider the fact that it's about a grand just for that shifter. For the street, completely not needed.
as far as the pingel goes i have forward controls from alteredstate so i dont think this style would work any way. and this would be a mere redlining situation for when i want to shift like a bat out of hell not all the time type thing


Quote:
4. ARP kit: At your boost levels (i.e. stock Trask kit) you won't be lifting heads or stressing stock rod bolts.
id like to possibly push 200HP would like to run more that jsut stock... and if the ARP is only 185 and would take a couple of hours of install that i can do im all for it to make my engine stronger for years to come.

Quote:
5. Clutch: Barnett carbon kit and IF you can score a billet basket even better.
yup the game plan is to go with Fitzgerald on this because i like to do holeshots off any line when i ride.

Quote:
6. Fuel pump/injectors/rail: There are many plug and play injectors available for our bikes...no need for the "upgraded" rail.
i was looking but not sure what i needed for a boosted setup hence the questioning of the forum.

Quote:
7. 58mm throttle body: Don't. Tons of reasons all over this forum.
i have only seen the issue of the butterflies breaking, that's why i figured Fitzgerald has his on that defeats this? is there other concerns and is the upgraded throttle body even necessary if i'm pushing the air down its throat anyway.

Quote:
8. Trask turbo kit: Now this is MY opinion...but that "kit" is really low end. The lack of true fabrication and fitment speaks for itself. IF I was going the turbo route on these bikes (and I think that should only be if you are drag racing, otherwise the superchargers make more sense on the street) I'd look into a custom build. It will likely cost the same in the end and be built to a much higher level of quality and sensibility (sideways intercooler anyone...I digress).
as far as this is concerned i was going with turbo because of the thought of only having it pressured when im going hard and superchargers are always pressurizing throughout the RPM range. I saw on a NLC (i think) turbo they put a little scoop on the intercooler to force air on to theirs thats what my plan is if i go this route. but it seems everytime i see posts about getting a turbo there are just as many that say go supercharger.

Quote:
9. Dyno: Ask around (the forums and in the real world) what level of spark knock the turbo guys are seeing. You'll find out real quickly that few shops that tune bikes know what that means and worse have no way to detect it because most of the turbo guys chose the "better" aftermarket ecms (you can hear my sarcasm right?). Search the forums on this...I have preached enough on this for a few days of reading.
this is the main reason i wanted to go piggyback tuner but my current tuner says nothing about the ability to use a pressure sensor and i second guess myself.




but if i start with the billet basket, pan, and motor brace , and then add the Barnett carbon fiber clutch pads will this be good to start with until i figure whether to turbo or supercharge. If i plan to push upwards of 200HP would the ARP bolt kit be necessary then?
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Old 07-09-2019, 01:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freudie1 View Post
My thoughts/opinion:

1. Thundermax.....junk. Either a DTT or better yet get a PowerVision and find a real tuner that knows how to scale map values within a 1 bar table for boost (it's totally possible/done with great success).

2. Pingel: You drag racing? If not, consider the fact that it's about a grand just for that shifter. For the street, completely not needed.

3. Engine brace and oil pan: Engine brace...ok. The engine braces left on the market are decent....the "good" ones are long gone (Kaarza and HolyMoto) unfortunately. Can't hurt, but not ideal. The oil pan? Not needed (and if I recall it reduces ground clearance a bit).

4. ARP kit: At your boost levels (i.e. stock Trask kit) you won't be lifting heads or stressing stock rod bolts.

5. Clutch: Barnett carbon kit and IF you can score a billet basket even better.

6. Fuel pump/injectors/rail: There are many plug and play injectors available for our bikes...no need for the "upgraded" rail.

7. 58mm throttle body: Don't. Tons of reasons all over this forum.

8. Trask turbo kit: Now this is MY opinion...but that "kit" is really low end. The lack of true fabrication and fitment speaks for itself. IF I was going the turbo route on these bikes (and I think that should only be if you are drag racing, otherwise the superchargers make more sense on the street) I'd look into a custom build. It will likely cost the same in the end and be built to a much higher level of quality and sensibility (sideways intercooler anyone...I digress).

9. Dyno: Ask around (the forums and in the real world) what level of spark knock the turbo guys are seeing. You'll find out real quickly that few shops that tune bikes know what that means and worse have no way to detect it because most of the turbo guys chose the "better" aftermarket ecms (you can hear my sarcasm right?). Search the forums on this...I have preached enough on this for a few days of reading.
That was my impression also, looking at the air filter and plenum. Plenum looks really back yardish fabrication in my view.
Ron
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:18 PM   #7
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[QUOTE=Garyfack;4743313]Thanks ozzie for your insight, the entire trask line does seem like they have it covered. and Pheonix is only 14 hrs from me so its doable but what if you wanted to go more boost, could you with the trask. I'd like to possibly push 200HP

If you could make it to Phoenix in a day, it would be an easy thing to make an appointment and get it done. I brought my 120R FLHX there and they started in the morning at 8 AM and by 3 PM the installation was completely done and dyno tuned. I actually came back around 3 PM and Ron invited me into the dyno room to see and confirm the tune. Good guys down there. I had 8.5 lbs boost on my Muscle and my FLHX. Yes you can get more boost, meaning also more HP. You could do a set of turbo cams to probably get more. Ron recommended that I could add a boost controller. I did that addition myself. With it I can increase my boost myself depending on quality of gasoline available. My Muscle and FLHX were tuned on 87 octane gas. Here where I live I can get 94 octane gas.
Give them a call and tell them what you want to do. Either Eric, Moots, Ron, or even Nick if he might be around would be able to give you good advice.
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:43 PM   #8
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That was my impression also, looking at the air filter and plenum. Plenum looks really back yardish fabrication in my view.
Ron
100% agree. IF there was a bigger market for such a kit I'd happily design and sell a much better kit. I have significant access to a very respected fabricator that I have been working with for years on other platforms (I showed him pictures of the Trask kit and he had a good chuckle with me as well).

The manifold....the welds....the cheap turbo....the poorly planned intercooler.....the list goes on.
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:47 PM   #9
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[quote=ozzie21;4743339]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyfack View Post
Thanks ozzie for your insight, the entire trask line does seem like they have it covered. and Pheonix is only 14 hrs from me so its doable but what if you wanted to go more boost, could you with the trask. I'd like to possibly push 200HP

If you could make it to Phoenix in a day, it would be an easy thing to make an appointment and get it done. I brought my 120R FLHX there and they started in the morning at 8 AM and by 3 PM the installation was completely done and dyno tuned. I actually came back around 3 PM and Ron invited me into the dyno room to see and confirm the tune. Good guys down there. I had 8.5 lbs boost on my Muscle and my FLHX. Yes you can get more boost, meaning also more HP. You could do a set of turbo cams to probably get more. Ron recommended that I could add a boost controller. I did that addition myself. With it I can increase my boost myself depending on quality of gasoline available. My Muscle and FLHX were tuned on 87 octane gas. Here where I live I can get 94 octane gas.
Give them a call and tell them what you want to do. Either Eric, Moots, Ron, or even Nick if he might be around would be able to give you good advice.
I don't want to be "that guy" but in this case I will be:

Unless you can tune your own bike with confidence (and experience) I really don't recommend a boost controller. Since time immortal with boosted applications there is always the "let's see what it does with MORE boost" stories.

Do you log AFR? Do you display IDC? Do you display both in realtime? Do you have a way to log spark knock (and in real time)? Do you know what to do when you have spark knock, maxed out IDCs, high AFRs, etc?

If any of that is confusing or "new" to you then DO NOT proceed. You can and will create a very expensive pair of ash trays.
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Old 07-09-2019, 06:51 PM   #10
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What's your budget?

You do know the old drag racer's adage right? Fast, cheap, reliable...you can only pick two.

You really should find a respected tuner of v-twin engines (and a custom fabricator). You might be surprised by the costs compared to the "pre-made" kits.

You also might wind up with a lot more smiles and less trauma down the road.....buy once cry once perhaps?

These are NOT cheap bikes.
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyfack View Post

but if i start with the billet basket, pan, and motor brace , and then add the Barnett carbon fiber clutch pads will this be good to start with until i figure whether to turbo or supercharge. If i plan to push upwards of 200HP would the ARP bolt kit be necessary then?
If you plan to go above the 'average' Trask HP ranges (~170ish), you'll REALLY want to put ARP studs in, as well as the other key strengthening items (crank brace, pinned main bearings, etc.), or it's not going to last long.
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Old 07-10-2019, 04:23 PM   #12
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My budget is pretty lax, i could spend around 1k a month on reliability add ons. a new clutch here, a brace there. I want the engine to still be bulletproof but also want it to be crazy fast/talk of the town. But the bike is my daily driver (300+ days) as i live in the San Francisco Bay Area. I was leaning toward kits due to the companies supplying them have researched and trialled and found what works, so i don't have to guess.

Freudie, i have doubled back and looked again at the Rotrex SC from TTS and they seem to be reliable and have the ability to push it 200 with proper engine mods. i plan on messaging them for their input on engine mods. why do you feel SC are better than TC for the street?

Sean, Thanks for your input. Your 197/131 dyno run is impressive from the MWT rally. You mentioned I will need ARP motor bolts and pinned main bearings when i push for the 200hp. is there a list you are going off or a checklist... i have searched a lot of pages on here and keep finding different results to what to upgrade, and it seem like this forum has faded as not a lot of people are making new posts. i just want a list so i can go through and check it off with what power im looking for. I don't want to over build and get a billet crankcase and i don't want to underbuild and miss a 400 dollar bolt kit when i buy a 5k forced induction kit.

i.e.
120 stock engine
130 upgraded fuel delivery system
140 billet clutch basket
150 carbon fiber clutch pads
160 motor brace
250 billet crankcase
556 LSA Crate engine
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Old 07-10-2019, 09:32 PM   #13
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My budget is pretty lax, i could spend around 1k a month on reliability add ons. a new clutch here, a brace there. I want the engine to still be bulletproof but also want it to be crazy fast/talk of the town. But the bike is my daily driver (300+ days) as i live in the San Francisco Bay Area. I was leaning toward kits due to the companies supplying them have researched and trialled and found what works, so i don't have to guess.

Freudie, i have doubled back and looked again at the Rotrex SC from TTS and they seem to be reliable and have the ability to push it 200 with proper engine mods. i plan on messaging them for their input on engine mods. why do you feel SC are better than TC for the street?

Sean, Thanks for your input. Your 197/131 dyno run is impressive from the MWT rally. You mentioned I will need ARP motor bolts and pinned main bearings when i push for the 200hp. is there a list you are going off or a checklist... i have searched a lot of pages on here and keep finding different results to what to upgrade, and it seem like this forum has faded as not a lot of people are making new posts. i just want a list so i can go through and check it off with what power im looking for. I don't want to over build and get a billet crankcase and i don't want to underbuild and miss a 400 dollar bolt kit when i buy a 5k forced induction kit.

i.e.
120 stock engine
130 upgraded fuel delivery system
140 billet clutch basket
150 carbon fiber clutch pads
160 motor brace
250 billet crankcase
556 LSA Crate engine
I think a billet basket (and possibly billet pressure plate, but only the out of business Holy Moto made one that I am aware of...) with barnett clutch pack, engine brace, and PROPER tuning (read: tune for knock reduction/elimination) will get you a long way.

I say the word "proper" as there is a virus on this forum that these engines are immune to knock. They aren't. More so when you go the aftermarket ECU for these bikes you lose the knock detection system....which I believe is the real cause for so many 200 hp "failures" that I have read about over the years.

Then again, I don't have a 200 hp Vrod. Then again maybe I will if I can ever get the compressor in that I want and prove the power of the stock ecu....

As for blower vs turbo: I'm not a fan of the additional piping required (and hot pipes by your leg) that a turbo on a bike usually requires. The blower can get you just as far and with a much more compact/street rideable package. IF I was building a race bike...sure..turbo all day (less parasitic loss and easier to adjust boost levels). For street applications I think the blower route will get where you want power wise and give you an edge on reliability (stay away from the Sprintex units that run off the water pump shaft....stupid idea).

I like the TTS kit, but I don't like that the blower is external. The ultimate was the Holy Moto kit that "hid" the blower under the airbox. If only they weren't out of business (can you tell I'm salty about them being out of business yet!?).
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Old 07-12-2019, 10:27 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Garyfack View Post
Sean, Thanks for your input. Your 197/131 dyno run is impressive from the MWT rally. You mentioned I will need ARP motor bolts and pinned main bearings when i push for the 200hp. is there a list you are going off or a checklist... i have searched a lot of pages on here and keep finding different results to what to upgrade, and it seem like this forum has faded as not a lot of people are making new posts. i just want a list so i can go through and check it off with what power im looking for. I don't want to over build and get a billet crankcase and i don't want to underbuild and miss a 400 dollar bolt kit when i buy a 5k forced induction kit.
Honestly, I'm still a bit shocked that the bike hit those numbers, as I was expecting about 20HP less. In all transparency, keep in mind that's with a big slug of nitrous oxide, and not something I use every day on the street.

That said, I put ~60hp of nitrous into a 11 year old/20k+ mile big bore build and it appears to have survived (based on the ~100 street miles I've ridden since it was on the dyno).

Here's what mine had in it's initial build, from a strengthening standpoint:
  • Pinned main bearings
  • 10MM studs on the heads and the crank bolts
  • HD slipper clutch (mine's an '04, so didn't originally have the slipper)
  • Updated transmission parts (drum, shift actuator, shift shaft)
  • Tool steel shift shaft
  • Vance and Hines 2nd gear

This is what I'm planning to add this winter:
  • Fitzgerald Motorsports crank brace
  • Fitzgerald Motorsports oil pan
  • Fitzgerald Motorsports clutch basket
  • Some level of updated clutch components (likely springs, possibly Barnett plates)

All of that said, I'd suggest chatting up Scott Fitzgerald about what your desired outcomes are, and what his recommendations would be. His team's built a number of high HP v-rods of various combinations of big bore and forced induction, and a number of people running high HP VRSC's have one or more of his parts in their motors.
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SE Heads, Jones Cams/Valves/Springs
Destroyer TB and Injectors
CP Pistons
Bub 7 2-1
VRFI-III
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump and 5-bar Regulator
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Old 07-13-2019, 01:13 PM   #15
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So, I spoke with Paul at TTS, he says my add ons are going to work great for the 200hp SuperSport set up they offer. He also recommends a 340 series pump and a 5 bar regulator that he can supply for an addition 150 euro. still waiting on Shipping costs and total price for the kit but its the weekend probably wait until monday for that.

Freudie, I asked TTS to reconfigure their SuperSport kit to mimic Holy-Moto, they said no go figure. I have also attempted contact with Holy-Moto to see if I can buy the BOM and CAD for the SC, pressure plate, and engine brace will see if I get a reply. Do you have an idea how i could contact them? (maybe i'll make a new post to see if anyone has the kit in the states not installed i can borrow and reverse engineer)

Ozzie, I have yet to contact Trask ( I still value your feedback though), but seems like i'm flipping back to supercharger i just can't make up my mind. on one hand i really like the idea of the turbo hangin off the side for statement, to possibly entice other drivers to my shenanigans, on the other hand a sleeper Supercharger would be super clean, and still have the power. they both bring the exhaust on the one side (have two sided slip on now) the S/C would allow me to get the Cut Throat Exhaust. The Sleeper S/C would allow me to use a new airbox cover with a scoop for an aggressive stance while the turbo allows for a forward facing filter which i also like the look of. TTS S/C setup can use my Power Commander just fine so that kinda keeps with my original setup nicely which is nice and I get the power shifter add on for my current setup so if I wanted to do it I could.

Sean, Yeah i saw you used NOS. I was contemplating NOS but would want just as much HP gain as you had. With my logic, upgrade engine for nos, might as well spend 3K more and get forced induction. haha i think i go too far on my hobbies. I can't just dip a toe in, i have to dive head first. maybe i add NOS to a forced induction setup lol

SO to update seems my list has changed a bit:
  1. engine work from Fitzgerald (not sure which yet still need to contact possible straight second gear, pinned main bearings, crank brace) possibly shipping engine or bike...
  2. Billet clutch basket with barnett Carbon clutch pads
  3. billet oil pan
  4. engine brace (attempting to contact Holymoto, karaza, if not Fitz)
  5. ARP 10MM head bolts
  6. PC autotune
  7. PC power shift
  8. Cut Throat Exhaust
  9. TTS SuperSport Kit with upgraded Fuel pump and regulator
  10. DYNO (RC Cycles in Haywards seems to have pretty good reviews on the web)((haven't spoken to anyone personally that has used them))
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