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"crap" stuff in the clutch fluid.

3K views 28 replies 13 participants last post by  averysweetrod 
#1 ·
i did my first clutch on my 07 NRS. getting the cat off was the hardest part of taking it apart. i put in the new slipper clutch and struggled to get 162 ft lbs on the nut but got it done. i decided to flush the clutch fluid and i found that i needed a little spoon to scoop the crap out of the reservoir. man was it in need of a good cleaning. i went through 2 quarts of fluid before my oil sample was clean and clear. the little pin holes in the clutch reservoir where completely clogged and now i think my clutch pack may still be good. fluid checks where just done by the dealership as part of the life time service, weird. now i am wander if they are actually checking the valve clearances12,000 and putting in new plugs ever 10,000 miles or even changing the oil filter. makes me wander.
 
#2 ·
You should wonder! When you've caught 'em in one "lie" you have to wonder how many more they told. Didn't happen to take pics of the "crap," did you? Might be something to show the owner.
 
#5 ·
Could have been nothing more than a lazy tech. I would complain to the service manager and see what transpires. I would also check everything supposedly performed every time I take bike in for service. No telling what comes out of the dealers service dept especially if the bike is a V-Rod.
 
#7 ·
I recently dumped my fluid out when I put new bars on. The fluid in my brake res was crystal clear... The clutch fluid, black and murky.
 
#8 ·
Check your brake fluid.

If is bad I would ride in to the dealer and show them and then ask for your money back!!!

Be sure to tell them about the clutch fluid.

Glad to see another v-rod mechanic...LOL

Great job.
 
#9 ·
I found dark thick fluid in my clutch reservoir too. I discovered it while changing the brake pads and bleeding the brakes and figured it would be good to check the clutch Dot 5 fluid too. There were metal particles all throughout the fluid.

Maybe the clutch hydraulic fluid is a common area of neglect.
 
#10 ·
the slipper clutch is taking some getting use too. i keep triing to shift below first. i did notice a major rpm drop at highway speeds as well.. before at 75 mph i was turn a little over 6000 rpm and now at 75 steady i am turn less than 5000. it feel good to have my power back and even better knowing that i fix it myself.
 
#13 ·
i haven't torn the other clutch apart yet but from the side veiw it still looks like the friction pads are still there. that is why i think it may have just been the crud in the reservoir messing things up. lesson learned, flush them on a regular basis.
 
#16 ·
I'm not near my manual right now, how often should we be flushing the clutch reservoir? I recently checked my level and it was slightly below minimum. I've read though not to have to much in there. To add more is it as simple as just buying the correct fluid and topping it off a bit?
 
#17 ·
Clutch Fluid Replacement & Bleeding Interval


Per the '07 Service Manual, "Check level and condition" at 5Kmi intervals and, if needed, top up to the Fill Line. Changing fluid and bleeding the clutch system is not called for in the Service Schedule, as changing brake fluid and bleeding the system is, though from reports here it should be. The procedure is provided in Section 1.13.

Edit: A "cheater" way to flush out crappy fluid without going through the bleed procedure is to use paper towels to remove the cruddy fluid from the reservoir, followed with Q-tips if needed to get goop out of the corners of the reservoir. Refill the reservoir with clean fluid, button it up, and ride. After some miles, do that again. Then if the fluid is still "discolored," again. After a while you will have essentially changed the fluid without going through the squeeze, squeeze, squeeze, crack, tighten, refill, . . . repeat procedure. Of course if the reservoir and MC are so crudded up that the ports in the MC are plugged, this ain't gonna work. And it's a lot quicker just to do "proper" bleeding in the first place. HINT: When doing the squeeze, crack, tighten routine you can use a bungee cord to maintain the squeeze on the lever while cracking the bleeder valve.
 
#25 ·
the dealership says, the fluid flush for the brakes and clutch are every 2 years. since it is time based and not milage based they do not flush the fluids for life time service, but the service manager did apoligize for the fact i was not inform of the condition of my fluid and he will let the tech know of his deficiency.
 
#26 ·
the dealership says ... since it is time based and not milage based they do not flush the fluids for life time service ...
That makes a whole lot of sense, doesn't it! No doubt the "Lifetime Service" contract has a whole lot of fine print that's gets 'em out of doing all manner of stuff that should be done. :banghead:
 
#27 ·
Another cheater method is to clean all the fluid and gunk out of the reservoir first, fill with clean fluid, put a hose on the bleeder, open the bleeder and the fluid gravity flows out the bleeder. just top up the reservoir as it gets low.It takes about 10 minutes but no pumping and opening and closing required.
 
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