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Old 10-09-2018, 07:49 AM   #1
rc4man
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Not starting

Opinions, was riding this weekend, stopped for gas went to start and got just clicking noise. Turned off and back on started fine.
Made two more stops and bike started fine. After the next stop nothing but rapid clicking sounds. Had to bump start to get home, since it's been home nothing but the rapid clicking sounds when starter is activated.

I initially thought battery and bought one yesterday but haven't installed yet. But put bike on tender after returning home and after a full day still only clicking sounds. Now thinking possibly solenoid or starter.
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:13 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc4man View Post
Opinions, was riding this weekend, stopped for gas went to start and got just clicking noise. Turned off and back on started fine.
Made two more stops and bike started fine. After the next stop nothing but rapid clicking sounds. Had to bump start to get home, since it's been home nothing but the rapid clicking sounds when starter is activated.

I initially thought battery and bought one yesterday but haven't installed yet. But put bike on tender after returning home and after a full day still only clicking sounds. Now thinking possibly solenoid or starter.
Check all the grounds first, especially the one bottom rear of the motor. If all are good try shorting across the 2 main solenoid terminals with an old screwdriver or similar, need to do this swiftly and firmly to avoid excessive arcing. If starter turns ok then, solenoid is suspect.
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Old 10-09-2018, 01:28 PM   #3
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Clicking is usually the solenoid itself, or high resistance at the button to solenoid route not allowing enough current to hold it closed or the coil in the solenoid pooched lacking the pull to keep the connection closed. Starters don't click as a rule.
Ron
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Old 10-09-2018, 02:54 PM   #4
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Add on battery connections too. Let us know...
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:43 PM   #5
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I wasn't sure till I got out my parts book if the solenoid was part of the starter, like an old Chevy, or a separate part.
Appears to be mounted to the lower left frame rail in the parts illustration.
Familiar with shorting across the solenoid poles. Used to do this with old Fords to rotate the distributor cam to a position to set points gap. Does that age me?
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Old 10-09-2018, 03:50 PM   #6
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Familiar with shorting across the solenoid poles. Used to do this with old Fords to rotate the distributor cam to a position to set points gap. Does that age me?

Dwell meter, Rod, dwell meter...
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Old 10-09-2018, 07:56 PM   #7
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Got home tonight, peeled back the rubber boots over the solenoid poles, turned on the key and jumped the poles together, Nothing.

Must be battery
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Old 10-09-2018, 08:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Got home tonight, peeled back the rubber boots over the solenoid poles, turned on the key and jumped the poles together, Nothing.

Must be battery
Or Grounds! Very sensitive to good ground connections are V Rods. Try putting a jumpstart lead direct from the negative battery terminal onto the engine and then try again. At least that will eliminate that.
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Old 10-10-2018, 07:13 PM   #9
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Grounds are tight and always have been. Put in new battery and cranked right up.
While I had airbox out and following the manual advise to put the rbeer bungie over the airbox pin location bracket, I removed the rubber grommets, one of which was worn half thru. I ran out to local Ace hardware and found two rubber grommet at $0.43 each which at the end I installed and they worked great.
They don't have the large diameter flange on the pin insert side but we're the correct diameters and thickness.
Cover went back on easier than it has in a long time.
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Old 10-11-2018, 07:29 PM   #10
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I always start with a hard look at the battery. I have found that most batteries m/c and automotive survive at least 3 years and every day thereafter is a gift. Sometimes a charger will will show a false full charge if you have a bad cell or 2
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:12 AM   #11
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You said youve already got a new battery to put in so why not put it in and try it ?
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:15 AM   #12
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My bad i just read your last post
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc4man View Post
Opinions, was riding this weekend, stopped for gas went to start and got just clicking noise. Turned off and back on started fine.
Made two more stops and bike started fine. After the next stop nothing but rapid clicking sounds. Had to bump start to get home, since it's been home nothing but the rapid clicking sounds when starter is activated.

I initially thought battery and bought one yesterday but haven't installed yet. But put bike on tender after returning home and after a full day still only clicking sounds. Now thinking possibly solenoid or starter.
I just replaced the starter relay due to intermittent failure. There was no clicking when it failed. Therefore, I agree with Ron's logic and diagnosis.

Just another Ron
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:04 PM   #14
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I had the same problem twice now with my 2006 V-Rod Screaming Eagle and both times if was the battery. Generally, I could put it on the battery tender and get it started...but eventually even that did not work.

Lucky you were able to bump start your V-Rod as I have never had success with that method....noting that it has electronic ignition and fuel pump which needs power.

Note that when the engine & starter are very warm, there is additional resistance and thus the battery generally needs to be stronger to put out the same power to spin a warmer starter. Would be the same if it were very, very cold. That is why cars and motorcycles can start after sitting for some time (‘cold’).
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