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"R" front-end on "A" Model...???

5K views 48 replies 20 participants last post by  HawkStang 
#1 ·
Has anyone looked into putting an "R" model front (forks, trees, brakes, etc) onto the "A" or "B" models yet?
 
#28 ·
Speedy818 said:
Are those actually rebound adjustors? I didn't think that the forks were adjustable.
Speedy: These are not "R" forks, they are 58mm Marizocchi forks with adjustable dampening. The "R" forks are 56mm, I had to bore holes in the trees to make 'em fit.
Cheatin said:
Swine, I call what you do with what you have, "bastardization".
Thanks mate, I think this comes from growing up the bastard child :D
 
#29 ·
Modding "R" model Front To Fit "A" model Frame -

Completed the project and have listed an 8 step guide to fit an "R" frontend on an "A" model frame -

1) First you need to remove steering and fork lock off top and bottom trees.

2) "A" Frame Key Lock - Top tree will need to be machined for clearance to allow for full rotation around the key lock on "A" headstem. (this will require removing most of r/side headlight mounting block on inside of top tree and will cut into headlight mounting face).

3) Top Tree - You will need to relieve inside (back/bottom) edge for clearance on frame tubes.
Bottom Tree - Relieve back edge where needed for clearance on regulator.

You should now be able to mount trees using "A" headstem bolt - The "R" trees/risers mount closer to the bike than the "A" model so clearance with bars & top tree in relation to airbox will need to be checked.

4) Next you will need to mark/drill new steering lock hole and manufacture/weld mounting block for fork stop into top tree. You also need to machine slot in top tree for clearance of key rotation in steering lock.

5) You will need to run allen head bolts for access when mounting bars. These will need to be counterbored into the top tree riser mounting holes from below. This is to allow for clearance on "A" headstem steering lock, etc.

6) Next you will need to manufacture/weld alloy plug for center hole in top tree to cover steering lock.

7) You will also need to manufacture new mounting boss/plate to be welded into headlight area in front of top tree. This will need to be pre-drilled before welding and clearanced on back face for "A" steering lock mount (see step 2). Once welded you will need to tap holes to mount headlight.

8) You will need to slot out section of headlight mounting bracket/top tree to allow access for wiring. Other cables should slot through two remaing holes in top tree.

Final Rake After Mod -

Frame - model "A" = 34deg.

Trees - model "R" = 2deg.


Total Rake Angle = 36deg.

Takes a bit of work but well worth the effort for that true custom look!!!
 
#33 ·
swine said:
PA: Cheatin: Thanks for replies.

Yes , I suppose I could buy a storz front (Great Products) but you know me I like to be different. I didn't like the new trees on the "R" when I first seen them but they are growing on me, I think they would look good on the "A" along with a set of drag style "Z" Bars and rear sets.

Damn, I think I am talking myself into doing it :sinister:
The front end off of an R will fit. It will cost you about $400 a fork from Zanotti's, plus trees. You may also want to change you clam shell and get rid of the A "goose neck"
Kennedy said:
I was actually thinking about going the other way...
That seem to be the only way to get the larger fuel tank.

Kennedy said:
I was actually thinking about going the other way...
That seem to be the only way to get the larger fuel tank.

If I could "aquire" a wrecked R, and rebuild it as an "A", well, I'd be done for a little while.
Why convert an R into and A? why not just get an R or an '07 for the 5 gallons? Or, the after market tank for $600 or what ever it ended up being?
 
#34 ·
BrianVRSCR said:
The front end off of an R will fit. It will cost you about $400 a fork from Zanotti's, plus trees. You may also want to change you clam shell and get rid of the A "goose neck"
Kennedy said:
I was actually thinking about going the other way...
That seem to be the only way to get the larger fuel tank.



Why convert an R into and A? why not just get an R or an '07 for the 5 gallons? Or, the after market tank for $600 or what ever it ended up being?
Holy thread resurrection Batman.

I posted that over a year ago. I'll be going with a Trickcrod tank for $300 thank you very much. :cheers:
 
#35 ·
Kennedy said:
BrianVRSCR said:
The front end off of an R will fit. It will cost you about $400 a fork from Zanotti's, plus trees. You may also want to change you clam shell and get rid of the A "goose neck"


Holy thread resurrection Batman.

I posted that over a year ago. I'll be going with a Trickcrod tank for $300 thank you very much. :cheers:
That is the one that I meant $300
 
#36 ·
I don't know about the "A" onto "R", but am considering replacing the triple clamps on my "B" with those from a Night Rod ("D"). I think the frames are the same (except for the pegs) and it would improve handling by tucking the front wheel back a couple of degrees. Comments?!
 
#37 ·
orangebob said:
I don't know about the "A" onto "R", but am considering replacing the triple clamps on my "B" with those from a Night Rod ("D"). I think the frames are the same (except for the pegs) and it would improve handling by tucking the front wheel back a couple of degrees. Comments?!
I thought that the B and D were the same? Since the D replaced the B.
 
#38 ·
the 'd' has 2 degrees less rake cut in the trees than an 'a' or 'b' i have been running 'd' trees on my 'a' for some time, better cornering and handling imho. i actually used the trees of an 'se2' as these are the same as a 'd' but come in chrome. hope this helps.
 
#40 ·
No...the frames are the same (exception for pegs noted) including rake of gooseneck...34 degrees. I had the dealer check the part nbrs for the tubes...same too. The difference is in the triple clamps "A" & "B" @ 38 degrees while the "D" (night Rod) is 36. Check October 2005 review of Night Rod in Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine. We're only talking about 1/2" dif in wheelbase. Check the article out on line (motorcyclecruiser.com) & let me know what you think.
 
#43 ·
jnelson said:
I am taking the Storz front end off of my 05 B and putting it on my new DX. I expect to complete by next week. Also doing a new airbox cover. It goes out to the painter today and I should be all finished by next weekend.

John
Next week!! That's only a two or three hour drunken job!!! :goof:
 
#44 ·
orangebob said:
No...the frames are the same (exception for pegs noted) including rake of gooseneck...34 degrees. I had the dealer check the part nbrs for the tubes...same too. The difference is in the triple clamps "A" & "B" @ 38 degrees while the "D" (night Rod) is 36. Check October 2005 review of Night Rod in Motorcycle Cruiser Magazine. We're only talking about 1/2" dif in wheelbase. Check the article out on line (motorcyclecruiser.com) & let me know what you think.
Does the night rod have the inverted front end like the R ? I thought the R trees have NO rake. All of the rake is in the frame neck?
 
#45 ·
From HD documentation, the neck is 2degrees less than the total so I am assuming the extra 2 is in the trees.
In the specs on their site, it is listed as 30 degrees at the head. I have seen others references to 32 degress fork angle.

No, the D doesn't have the inverted forks like the R. I think they are unique to the R though I have seen them on a soft tail, a deuce I think that was all jazzed up with 200mm rear tire, lots of chrome on dealers floor.
 
#46 ·
Does the night rod have the inverted front end like the R ? I thought the R trees have NO rake. All of the rake is in the frame neck?
There is some rake in the trees. Sit down beside your bike with a beer and study the relation of the tube angle to the neck and all will become clear. I can't remember how many degrees maybe I can find it at home.
 
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