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Old 10-05-2019, 02:01 PM   #16
knight rod rob
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I will Ron. And I rode it and oil pressure was at 75 on start up and it gradually went to 50 and the rest the same as u. Yep I dont know if I could ever ride this thing w/o a oil gage. I learn more about the gages responses everytime. Ron how did u plumb your gage from the case? There is a reason I am asking.
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Old 10-05-2019, 02:39 PM   #17
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I will Ron. And I rode it and oil pressure was at 75 on start up and it gradually went to 50 and the rest the same as u. Yep I dont know if I could ever ride this thing w/o a oil gage. I learn more about the gages responses everytime. Ron how did u plumb your gage from the case? There is a reason I am asking.
I made a fitting to go in place of the idiot sensor. A braided hose comes out part way up and the top retains the idiot light switch. Made a mount off the water pump bolts. I've seldom looked at it until your episode. Damn you, LOL. If you blow the pic up you will see the aluminum fitting between the cyls. It's the last area for the oil to go, as in the front head. Tapping the oil filter housing would work too but it's at the start of the oil although I don't think it matters much.
Ron
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Old 10-05-2019, 05:00 PM   #18
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Ok u see the fitting I have and u can also see where the oil galley is in the case next to my fitting that feeds the cams.The pipe is 1/4 in, so is the bushing in the case . The hole in case that feeds the cams is about the same size.Now the line for the actual oil pressure inside dia is a hell of a lot smaller. Like a 32nd dia maybe. So if u can imagine the oil has to travel up to the cams and fill the oil gage cavity at the same time. Possible timing of how fast the oil pressure is reached as it travels to the cams to build pressure. So I made a restrictor in the bushing in the case. So this will act like the light sensor. Which stops oil as it moves up ward. My restrictor I welded the end of the fitting and drilled a hole in the brass weld. Drill bit size same as them oil lines that come w/ oil gages. Result I notice the oil light goes out in a second for real. And I notice the gage seems to almost respond like the tach. So I dont know what your ID of your line is but its worth a look. Remember with the light sending unit the oil pressure stops there.And oil pressure travels to point of destination faster.
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Old 10-05-2019, 06:52 PM   #19
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Ok u see the fitting I have and u can also see where the oil galley is in the case next to my fitting that feeds the cams.The pipe is 1/4 in, so is the bushing in the case . The tube in case that feeds the cams is about the same size.Now the line for the actual oil pressure inside dia is a hell of a lot smaller. Like a 32nd dia maybe. So if u can imagine the oil has to travel up to the cams and fill the oil gage cavity at the same time. Possible timing of how fast the oil pressure is reached as it travels to the cams to build pressure. So I made a restrictor in the bushing in the case. So this will act like the light sensor. Which stops oil as it moves up ward. My restrictor I welded the end of the fitting and drilled a hole in the brass weld. Drill bit size same as them oil lines that come w/ oil gages. Result I notice the oil light goes out in a second for real. And I notice the gage seems to almost respond like the tach. So I dont know what your ID of your line is but its worth a look. Remember with the light sending unit the oil pressure stops there.And oil pressure travels to point of destination faster.
Oil pressure would need to be a result of a full system under pressure rather than one area before registering. What I'm trying to say is oil pressure in any area or galley would read the same and is independent of actual oil flow. My braided line is about 1/8 id and the gauge has a restrictor in it to stop pulsing. That's about the size of a pin head in the center of the male 1/8 pipe fitting connection of gauge. My light goes out and gauge jumps to life about he same time. Possibly the light a spit second before the needle moves on the gauge. It jumps instantly to 60 and a hair over at times with a cold start. It will climb between 65 -70 if you rev it up a bit with cold oil. I'm thinking that between seeing this and a hot oil psi of 60 ish, the relief valve in my bike is set to pop off extra pressure in the 60-65 range. I've seen 80 once which could be from a slightly sticky valve at that particular time but have not seen that since. 70psi going down the road before oil temp is up is common, so far and it drops to 60psi gradually as oil temp climbs up to normal.
Ron
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Old 10-05-2019, 07:05 PM   #20
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Ok just something to look at just in case no one thought of this. I definitely see a difference in my set up. I have electric gages. You have the real deal. But mines work well enough. Better than that light.
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Old 10-05-2019, 07:34 PM   #21
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Ok just something to look at just in case no one thought of this. I definitely see a difference in my set up. I have electric gages. You have the real deal. But mines work well enough. Better than that light.
Agree, both will produce the same result. A good reference for oil pressure and important for any serious gear head. Thought about going with an electric sender also but had all this shit laying around, so made use of it.
Ron
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Old 10-09-2019, 02:17 AM   #22
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Well after I rode it this past weekend. I removed the oil pan for the 3rd time and the results were good. You can see some small pieces on the magnets. They worked as planned. The oil pick up tube was very clean. I thought the pan screws hanging on the pan was funny.
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