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No more clutch

2K views 33 replies 20 participants last post by  Bad Fish 
#1 ·
I seem to have fried my clutch the other night by screwing around in the garage doing burnouts. Whoops.:banghead: Anyways, with the clutch lever totally released the bike goes nowhere. I am assuming that all I should have to replace is the steel and friction plates and of course the nut that holds the pack in. Is there anything that I am missing here? Should I also replace the springs? Any and all help would be appreciated. I'm pretty green when it comes to working on bikes but have done alot of work on autos and I am very mechanically inclined and not afraid to tackle this. Thanks for anyone and everyones help!

P.S. 2003 VRSCA with 9900 miles.
 
#2 ·
Get a slipper clutch and new nut. Easy, Works great. Joe
 
#3 ·
just put a new slipper in as mentioned,, a complete new slipper is under $200.00,, or if you wish you can buy a used stock clutch cheap as well......I have a used stock clutch that just under 8000 miles on it you can have for $40.00,, but if it was me I still would go with the slipper.
 
#4 ·
slipper as Joe says...

watch video...

Link in Sig.
 
#17 ·
Wouldn't the first step be to check for a broken output shaft? A new slipper clutch is not going to remedy that situation.
 
#8 ·
I appreciate the help. I think I'm going to go with the slipper clutch. Stock clutch at the dealerships here in Phoenix want 284.xx out the door. I can find slippers right near $200 + 20 for shipping on the net. What exactly is the difference with the slipper clutch? I'm gonna do some research on it right now, but, what are your personal experiences with it? How does act compared to a stock clutch, etc....??
 
#18 ·
Slipper clutch obvious benefits:

1. Clutch lever pull much easier,
2. No rubber left on the asphalt when downshifting suddenly.
 
#10 ·
Slipper Clutch allows the clutch to "slip" if/when you do a hard shift at higher RPMs. By the clutch "slipping", it limits the amount of torque put to the rear wheel. In other words, the clutch slips so your rear wheel won't. When you down shift at high rpms with a traditional clutch, your rear wheel will loose traction and try to come around on you. With the slipper clutch, the clutch slips so your rear wheel does not loose traction
 
#11 ·
Guys:

I have the same situation like Black03 and I ordered a Barnett extra plate Clutch Kit for replace the original clutch of my R that I burned doing burn outs on Dec. 31. The barnett will result in a good inversion? The original clutch will cost $23.00 each and separators for more than $230.00. The Barnett cost me $159.00 with free shipping. Opinions are welcome.

Thanks,

Jolo

PD: Black03 I'm not hijacking your post
 
#16 ·
You can run the Barnett frictions and steels in the v-rod slipper hub and base.It's the hub and base that has ramps and balls that release the clamping force when downshifting to keep the tire from loosing traction.The cool thing about the slipper is it mechanically increases the clamping force when engine torque is applied.
In other words,the more you twist the throttle,the better the clutch will hold.
 
#30 ·
I replaces ONE plate on my slipper. Cost me $20 for parts. a complete set would cost $200 (10 plates) Complete slipper is $199 at Chicago Harley.
 
#31 ·
the one extra plate kevlar isn`t quite as stout as i had hoped..the first time the boss nailed the throttle on our bike in front of the store he drove right through it. we tried another with the red 100lb springs and did the same ... the 2 extra plate carbon fibre has done the job so far...
 
#34 ·
there are a lot of downhills & sharp corners in hills around pittsburgh. that and the crappy roads make for some real white knuckle driving. i didn't believe in the slipper until i was hard downshifting on a sharp downhill curve and the rear locked. it was complete luck - or my gremlin bell that keep me wheels down. i put in the slipper and never looked back. cost me less than $200 and about 4 hours. 6,000 miles later and it still works like new.

:moped::moped::moped:
 
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