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Oil and your Wet-Clutch - How and Why?

68K views 64 replies 40 participants last post by  That Guy 
#1 ·
Here is a great write up from Amsoil (maybe even sticky worthy) that describes the operation of your clutch along with the roll the the engine oil has. It does an excellent job of describing why I have always recommended a good motorcycle oil with a JASO MA2 rating over an automotive oil without the frictional rating.

Sure, some people will be able to state they have had no problems with auto oil but that is not always the case. This is especially important in application that seem to be prone to slippage like our beloved V-Rod's.

http://www.modernoils.com/media/pdf_files/TSB_wetclutch_operation.pdf

Ken
 
#53 ·
Either of the HD oils will work, though once break-in is achieved, after 10k miles, use of 100% synthetic is preferred. Don't know where you live but Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 and Valvoline V-Twin 20-50 synthetics can be found at most Walmart, Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts distributors. Amsoil is also much thought of here though not as common at most local or more convenient distributors. Some aftermarket custom shops will have it or you can order from 02oilman here.
 
#54 ·
I've had good performance with Royal Purple Max Cycle 20W50, but will admit that this is a boutique oil that is horribly over-priced compared to similar performance oils, such as Amsoil or Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennsoil, QuakerState, Fina, etc., synthetics. Bottom line, pick an oil (I like synthetic) and change it often. If you can, have your oil sampled and lab tested for performance.:deal:
 
#55 ·
When new with HD stock oil, my AW shifted with a clunk and was often difficult to shift from neutral to first.

Tried Amsoil and immediately thereafter my tranny was smooth as silk. It's the only oil I'll put in my bike.

(And whatever HD tech said to never ride the friction zone in this wet clutch bike, as reported in earlier post, is a fool.)
 
#56 ·
rotella t has me shifting smooth at half the price.
 
#61 ·
Thought I would add my thoughts. My 08DX burned a lot of oil at first. After a couple thousand miles, it reduced to a consistent quart every 700 miles. Harley would do nothing about loss stating that it was in spec. I switched to Amsoil and the oil loss was gone. I have been with Amsoil ever since. I am now at 25K miles without problems.

Around 23K miles, I had a Vrod tech change out my cams. According to him, my original valves were not seated well and I had a lot of carbon build up on my valve stems. I have to wonder if there was an initial problem causing me to lose oil. We will never know, but after the initial experience, I will stay with Amsoil or any oil that is not HD.

You have to wonder how HD feels now that many dealerships are carrying Amsoil.
 
#62 ·
The carbon on your valves was from heavy oil consumption, not from the so called dealer BS of valves not seated. Ring sealing is usually the cause and this improves over time, as a rule. Valve stem seals only get worse with time, so the consumption remains bad and actual valve seat sealing will have no bearing on oil consumption. There can be a noticeable difference between dino and syn regarding consumption as well, as in how it behaves with the oil control rings.
Ron
 
#63 ·
Improper Revo ring seating ? No surprise -

What Ron says is right and to expand on that thought - Many Revo engined V Rods had initial oil consumption problems, mainly due to hard chrome rings on hard cylinder liners and improper oil for the break-in period - plus many riders that never ran the engines beyond 4-5 grand, even after the break-in period so the result is improperly seated rings, high initial oil consumption, resulting heavy breathing of oil mist into the airbox and contamination of the intake tract and valves, for a long, long time. To me H-D had the break-in riding rules about right in the manual but from new these engines should have been run on break-in mineral oil, Motorcycle Spec, ( not H-D Syn 3 or whatever crap oil they used ) until oil consumption stabilizes, ( hopefully by 400-500 miles ) using ever increasing Rpm limits until you get to 8999 ( no rev limiter hits ), then put in whatever full synthetic wet clutch M/C oil you worship, Amsoil for me, or Mobil 1, Motul etc. and never look back. Instead H-D delivered the bikes with an oil not optimized for proper break-in of basically a high tech, high Rpm race engine that wasn't operated that way by more conservative riders that may not have been used to revving up a V Twin to almost 9000 Rpm. IMHO H-D just didn't want to tell new V Rod owners to return in about 500 miles for a $ 135 oil change from break-in oil to a proper full synthetic - they just don't like to deliver bikes with that short of a honeymoon period so they just took their chances, some finally broke in, some didn't. :banghead: It is what it is. And once the rings are fully seated, fit an oil seperator for the long run, I learned that here, it's very important - :blahblah: :D
 
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