I seem to have fried my clutch the other night by screwing around in the garage doing burnouts. Whoops.:banghead: Anyways, with the clutch lever totally released the bike goes nowhere. I am assuming that all I should have to replace is the steel and friction plates and of course the nut that holds the pack in. Is there anything that I am missing here? Should I also replace the springs? Any and all help would be appreciated. I'm pretty green when it comes to working on bikes but have done alot of work on autos and I am very mechanically inclined and not afraid to tackle this. Thanks for anyone and everyones help!
just put a new slipper in as mentioned,, a complete new slipper is under $200.00,, or if you wish you can buy a used stock clutch cheap as well......I have a used stock clutch that just under 8000 miles on it you can have for $40.00,, but if it was me I still would go with the slipper.
If the bike shows absolutely NO movement at all when the clutch is released I would be concerned with a broken output shaft. This has happened with some early year bikes.
I appreciate the help. I think I'm going to go with the slipper clutch. Stock clutch at the dealerships here in Phoenix want 284.xx out the door. I can find slippers right near $200 + 20 for shipping on the net. What exactly is the difference with the slipper clutch? I'm gonna do some research on it right now, but, what are your personal experiences with it? How does act compared to a stock clutch, etc....??
Slipper Clutch allows the clutch to "slip" if/when you do a hard shift at higher RPMs. By the clutch "slipping", it limits the amount of torque put to the rear wheel. In other words, the clutch slips so your rear wheel won't. When you down shift at high rpms with a traditional clutch, your rear wheel will loose traction and try to come around on you. With the slipper clutch, the clutch slips so your rear wheel does not loose traction
I have the same situation like Black03 and I ordered a Barnett extra plate Clutch Kit for replace the original clutch of my R that I burned doing burn outs on Dec. 31. The barnett will result in a good inversion? The original clutch will cost $23.00 each and separators for more than $230.00. The Barnett cost me $159.00 with free shipping. Opinions are welcome.
I'm not sure why this needs to be repeated but, the slipper clutch (37938-08KA, $184 with 20% discount) is what you should use. It's better than fixing the old one or using a Barnett kit even though the slipper may cost a little more.
Damn, Why I don't ask before. With the part number posted by Stever975 now I know perfectly what slipper clutch mean. I already ordered the Barnett. The next time I would try to buy the slipper. Thanks for the help.
You can run the Barnett frictions and steels in the v-rod slipper hub and base.It's the hub and base that has ramps and balls that release the clamping force when downshifting to keep the tire from loosing traction.The cool thing about the slipper is it mechanically increases the clamping force when engine torque is applied.
In other words,the more you twist the throttle,the better the clutch will hold.
doh. I just bought another complete slipper, cos i started to cook the one thats in the bike now, are telling me i could have just ordered some plates and steels for cheaper
the one extra plate kevlar isn`t quite as stout as i had hoped..the first time the boss nailed the throttle on our bike in front of the store he drove right through it. we tried another with the red 100lb springs and did the same ... the 2 extra plate carbon fibre has done the job so far...
there are a lot of downhills & sharp corners in hills around pittsburgh. that and the crappy roads make for some real white knuckle driving. i didn't believe in the slipper until i was hard downshifting on a sharp downhill curve and the rear locked. it was complete luck - or my gremlin bell that keep me wheels down. i put in the slipper and never looked back. cost me less than $200 and about 4 hours. 6,000 miles later and it still works like new.
:moped::moped::moped:
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