So I have Carsten's (Holy Moto) billet clutch basket and billet lifter plate.
I also have the Barnett carbon fiber clutch kit (9 frictions/8 steels) and springs (black in appearance).
I believe I have everything friction/steel wise installed correctly (followed the diagram and have the two "special" frictions on the clutch pressure plate side (with a steel in between of course, and the third "special" friction on the hub side (yes I have the spring seat and the damper spring facing upwards with the third special friction fitting around the damper spring, then the one larger steel).
I also have the steels all in the correct orientation (i.e. flat side up...).
So I think I'm "In like Flynn". Not so. The issue is when I finished reassembly the clutch lever won't move at all.
The clutch pack does NOT move in and out of the basket. It's stuck.
After disassembling the pack and trying countless times (see pictures as you will see I even have the knockoff clutch alignment tool) I can't get the friction tabs to get slightly misaligned while torquing the 4 lifter plate bolts.
I have been tightening the 4 lifter plate bolts in a criss cross/slow as she goes fashion.
It ALWAYS seems to go a bit out of alignment (the tabs) when I get to the torque wrench (using the 9.7 nm rating in the book) and then is stuck in the basket (unless I unbolt the lifter plate a bit). It looks like to me the lifter plate collar is hitting the hub and then when I torque to stock values the plates shift due to the meeting of the two worlds.....
Is it possible with the combination of Carsten's billet lifter plate (the collar if you will seems to be a tad longer than the stock unit) AND the Barnett slipper clutch kit (the springs are quite a bit taller than the oem) that the lifter plate bolts should be torqued LESS than the stock 9.7 nm/86 in-lbs value??
I read in another thread on this forum (Tie One On??) mentioning Barnett told him "5-6 nm" with their kit.
Is this true? That would make sense to me, but I'm not willing to slap it together without some input regarding the lower torque value.
Other thought: I can't recall if the OEM lifter plate "collar" touches the hub when torqued down. Seems to me it did NOT as that would prohibit spring movement. As you can see in my pictures when I use the oem torque values the collar DOES touch the hub.
A virtual beer (or free product that I produce, your choice...) IF you can help me solve this .
Well maybe a massive discount...I'm annoyed that I blew an afternoon on a freaking clutch so the advice will go a long way with me