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Old 09-27-2016, 02:43 PM   #16
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Well, after all this I went looking. Sure as shit the damn crimp on the oil line was pressed against the rear brake line. Between pressure and heat it caused wear almost all the way through. I added a split rubber sleeve protector to the worn area but on a ride today it failed with a slow leak as shown with testing with hard brake pressure. This showed the peddle slowly moving down and it has been for a while now with wet line under the frame rail from previous rides. I don't use the rears aggressively so this is why I didn't notice it. Was going to be a winter replacement but now I need to fix it. Not in stock so about 2-3 weeks and about $185. I suggest every one taking a good close look at this area and at least add a protector sleeve to the line. What a pain in the ass it will be to change . Bike is a 2013 DX. Update. Got the line off and here is the oil cooler line imprints to the point of failure.
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Old 09-27-2016, 03:24 PM   #17
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Moved (and renamed) the thread to here (mechanical area) and made it a sticky.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:41 PM   #18
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That oil line floats around freely and is why I tied mine off to the frame down tube to keep it off the exhaust initially.If it ever let go you would have a flaming inferno to deal with despite HD's 'fix' of an extra heat shield wrap around it was my thought.
Fast forward and the brake line got chaffed through instead so this time I left it floating as stock,there's just nothing to fix it to by pulling it to the opposite direction.
Something to keep an eye on its a hot spot in more ways than one.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:55 PM   #19
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That oil line floats around freely and is why I tied mine off to the frame down tube to keep it off the exhaust initially.If it ever let go you would have a flaming inferno to deal with despite HD's 'fix' of an extra heat shield wrap around it was my thought.
Fast forward and the brake line got chaffed through instead so this time I left it floating as stock,there's just nothing to fix it to by pulling it to the opposite direction.
Something to keep an eye on its a hot spot in more ways than one.
When I get my new line I'm doing this. I discovered a 1 1/4" long x 1/4" id fuel line hose split length wise and postioned at the oil line crimp will offer the needed separation for protection. Like I said in my earlier post that worked but as you can see the prick leaked on my next ride. I let it go too long and frankly being hidden I wouldn't have known it being an issue. Spent plenty of time making sure all other cables , wires or whatever were secure and no rubbing issues when I first got the bike. That one I missed, damn it. My question is this. Why wouldn't the NHTSA be notified and a recall be issued? This is clearly a standard factory ABS routing method that has a flaw. Not a matter of if but when it gets a hole poked in it.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:22 PM   #20
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When I get my new line I'm doing this. I discovered a 1 1/4" long x 1/4" id fuel line hose split length wise and postioned at the oil line crimp will offer the needed separation for protection. Like I said in my earlier post that worked but as you can see the prick leaked on my next ride. I let it go too long and frankly being hidden I wouldn't have known it being an issue. Spent plenty of time making sure all other cables , wires or whatever were secure and no rubbing issues when I first got the bike. That one I missed, damn it. My question is this. Why wouldn't the NHTSA be notified and a recall be issued? This is clearly a standard factory ABS routing method that has a flaw. Not a matter of if but when it gets a hole poked in it.
Ron
Wish I'd done your fix now.Just went and had a look at mine and its showing signs of going again.I've managed to get a cable tie around the oil line fitting and through one of the fins on the fan shroud.Thats pulled the oil line away from the brake line by a good amount and taken most of the movement out of the offender.
Downside is its still close to the exhaust,results pending.
What with the ABS problems,the melting brake light switch and now this
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Old 09-28-2016, 12:06 AM   #21
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it's the brake line that vibrates when the engine runs,causing the rubbing..just strap it to the frame and problem solved
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:50 AM   #22
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Seeing as this problem has happened to multiple people there is obviously an issue. "..
Yes, it has happened to a "few" others here. And most all have admitted guilt in that they moved it or modded the area, rerouted/changed it's direction somehow from "stock" orientation.

Bringing it to attention and keeping it a sticky is a good thing for the next group of backyard mechanics to learn fron member mistakes.

The rear switch light can have a heat issue, catch fire, leak and loose rear brakes. Now, that one is definitely a precarious design or location, but even still, it didn't fail until I switched out exhausts, the CFR absolutely puts more heat to that area. I now wrap it with exhaust cloth and have gone 30someK without failure, I also switched to a Chevy switch. Never had an issue with the front line. 2nd V-Rod and closing in on 6 figure mileage without a "rub". (no pun intended)
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:36 AM   #23
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Yes, it has happened to a "few" others here. And most all have admitted guilt in that they moved it or modded the area, rerouted/changed it's direction somehow from "stock" orientation.

Bringing it to attention and keeping it a sticky is a good thing for the next group of backyard mechanics to learn fron member mistakes.
I replaced mine and put it back to stock.Now its doing it again.
Thunderdemon suggests strapping the brake line to the frame because it vibrates.I dont agree,mine is hard against the frame already and is difficult to move at that point.
The oil line is soft and flexible moreso when stinking hot so that is the culprit for sure.
A revised oil line is needed so us ''backyard mechanics'' with zero miles under our belts dont make HD look stupid when we bite the dust.
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:23 AM   #24
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Yes, it has happened to a "few" others here. And most all have admitted guilt in that they moved it or modded the area, rerouted/changed it's direction somehow from "stock" orientation.

Bringing it to attention and keeping it a sticky is a good thing for the next group of backyard mechanics to learn fron member mistakes.

The rear switch light can have a heat issue, catch fire, leak and loose rear brakes. Now, that one is definitely a precarious design or location, but even still, it didn't fail until I switched out exhausts, the CFR absolutely puts more heat to that area. I now wrap it with exhaust cloth and have gone 30someK without failure, I also switched to a Chevy switch. Never had an issue with the front line. 2nd V-Rod and closing in on 6 figure mileage without a "rub". (no pun intended)
The three bike mentioned are stock location, from the factory. Forget the exhaust part as this damage has pounded right through the metal line. It's hot there, sure but mechanical impacting is the main cause of failure. On ABS models the brake light switch is at the module so at least that is a non issue now. Tying the line to the frame rail won't make any difference since it's just about touching now. Rad is rubber mounted an it's movement is the main cause of the oil line crimp digging into the brake line. Best I've come up with is a second rubber sleeve around the brake line to protect it. The beaded area of the oil line crimp will embed into the rubber but once the rubber contacts the main part of the crimp, that's as far as it should go. The brake line should remain untouched then. Sure, I agree, a factory fix should be a revised oil line with a slight jog to give it more clearance. Don't think that's happening any time soon so for now it's best to inspect and come up with whatever solution that will work for a fix. After the OP's post I assumed I never had an issue. Boy was I wrong. I've made no alterations to the bike in this area from the day I got it.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:11 PM   #25
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Had the same happen on my DX.
My fault I tightened the oil cooler hose away from the exhaust because it is ridiculously close and the flange gradually rubbed through the brake line.
Talk about late braking!!!
DX is that what Ducati is now calling the Daivel X? Ya would figure foir that kind of money Ducati would not have those issues. Guess Porsche help them too.
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:53 AM   #26
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DX is that what Ducati is now calling the Daivel X? Ya would figure foir that kind of money Ducati would not have those issues. Guess Porsche help them too.
Short for DiavelX.

And hell no, no such issues with Ducati because those RUB's can't, won't and never wrench anything, so everything is left as is, stock, factory, and original. Don't even have a manly tool-box with cool stickers all over it, if they wanted to wrench.

For some reason, every HD owner, even the anti-pirates, anti-chrome, anti-HD, feel an urge to wrench their bike and be one of the boys. This forum is littered with screw-ups.
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:11 AM   #27
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Same problem long time ago in a Muscle
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Old 04-07-2017, 09:37 AM   #28
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dont like the abs
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Old 04-07-2017, 09:39 AM   #29
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thats happened to me on other bikes
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Old 04-07-2017, 09:40 AM   #30
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i think the muscles get hotter than the rest of the vrods. is this true?
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