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Old 04-09-2013, 12:41 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VanislVrod View Post
if you dont ride your clutch and drag your brake you have no low speed control...

thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by BayouRuler View Post
Say what?
I know this is an old post.... but Vanis is right, if you ever go to a rider saftey course that is exactly how the teach you to do it... you dont drag the front brake be cause you loose the ability to manuver.
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:05 PM   #47
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I agree with BayouRuler... 'Say WHAT?!?!'
front brake is not your friend in low speed maneuvers, but to float your brake AND clutch? how slow and low are you talking?
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Old 04-09-2013, 01:14 PM   #48
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You can come to almost a complete stop and stay upright without putting your foot down.

In the class its about 3-6 inches a second.
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Old 04-09-2013, 02:15 PM   #49
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What he was referring the clutch riding is fine in first gear. Not that you would but you can't ride the clutch in any other gear. It creates a horrible sound and wears on the plates. Again I don't know why you would ride with the clutch in any gear but first but it'll tear some stuff up. But if you couldn't ride clutch in first people would be burning tires left and right.
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Old 03-26-2014, 05:25 PM   #50
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i have a 2006 night rod and when iam in neutral and idling with the clutch lever out it makes a whining noise like the throw-out bearing is bad.but when i pull the clutch lever in it stops could it be my throw-out bearing needs work or what?
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Old 03-26-2014, 05:41 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba vrod View Post
i have a 2006 night rod and when iam in neutral and idling with the clutch lever out it makes a whining noise like the throw-out bearing is bad.but when i pull the clutch lever in it stops could it be my throw-out bearing needs work or what?
Sound is from your gear drive primary. Clutch in, the load is less because it doesn't drag the trans along. That tiny rod knock sound is from the same reason with clutch in and out.
Ron
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Old 04-15-2014, 05:13 PM   #52
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what kind of oil should i uses in my 2006 night rod?when I change it Harley oil? or what
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Old 04-15-2014, 06:32 PM   #53
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Either of the HD oils will work, though once break-in is achieved, after 10k miles, use of 100% synthetic is preferred. Don't know where you live but Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 and Valvoline V-Twin 20-50 synthetics can be found at most Walmart, Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts distributors. Amsoil is also much thought of here though not as common at most local or more convenient distributors. Some aftermarket custom shops will have it or you can order from 02oilman here.
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:13 PM   #54
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I've had good performance with Royal Purple Max Cycle 20W50, but will admit that this is a boutique oil that is horribly over-priced compared to similar performance oils, such as Amsoil or Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, Pennsoil, QuakerState, Fina, etc., synthetics. Bottom line, pick an oil (I like synthetic) and change it often. If you can, have your oil sampled and lab tested for performance.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:43 AM   #55
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When new with HD stock oil, my AW shifted with a clunk and was often difficult to shift from neutral to first.

Tried Amsoil and immediately thereafter my tranny was smooth as silk. It's the only oil I'll put in my bike.

(And whatever HD tech said to never ride the friction zone in this wet clutch bike, as reported in earlier post, is a fool.)
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:06 PM   #56
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rotella t has me shifting smooth at half the price.
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Old 04-16-2014, 08:39 PM   #57
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Guy's I'm a royal purple fan but my 13 NRS hated it so I went back to the H-D syn 3 and it seems to like it a whole lot better.
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Old 12-30-2016, 04:26 PM   #58
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Good information in here!


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