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Old 06-04-2010, 10:41 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentsimnitt View Post
Help dude. I have an 03 v-rod that ran perfect until i used mobile 1 vtwin for motorcycles. Immediately the clutch slipped horribly. I flushed it out and went to screaming eagle. It slowed the slip, but when i get on it to change lanes and accelerate the rpms walk away, i lose power, and slow way down. It feels likje a slipping clutch.
I upgraded to a Barnett V-rod model clutch and thought that would fix it. The clutch does the exact same thing and the hotter it gets outside the worse it slips. I replaced the clutch--what the hell else could it be. I have taken it to three different harley shops and they say its fine because it works good until the bike warms up. I am way frustrated...what the hell else could it be? Its getting ridiculous and dangerous and no one has an answer. Help!!!

Did you by chance change the break and clutch levers to after-market?
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Old 06-04-2010, 02:02 PM   #32
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I think brentsimnitt needs to change and bleed his clutch actuating fluid.

O2man98, you have to admit that the Amsoil write-up you are so proud of does confuse the V-rod oil reservoir setup. The V has only one sump as you know; they are trying to say the engine oil is separate from the tranmission/clutch. Not true. Don't get me wrong, I use your Amsoil and am very high on it, but the article has this issue confused. Otherwise, the article is excellent. Thanks much.
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:11 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vroder View Post
I think brentsimnitt needs to change and bleed his clutch actuating fluid. ...
If the slip is related to the hydraulic fluid, bleeding won’t help. Air in the system will cause the opposite problem. The hydraulic pressure will be reduced when the clutch lever is squeezed and the clutch won’t release making it hard to shift.

A slipping clutch means the plates are contaminated (bad oil), the plates are worn, there’s too much fluid in the reservoir, and/or the compensating port is plugged.

Bad oil and worn plates are sometimes the problem but it's more likely to be excess fluid or a blocked port preventing the slave cylinder from moving back when the lever is released causing the clutch to slip.
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:13 PM   #34
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If there is air in the clutch system, as the fluid get hotter (which he is complaining about) the air in the system will expand and cause the actuator to apply pressure on the clutch. Just like if you have air in the brake lines the brake will begin to drag and eventually lock up from the expansion of the air in the line.
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:36 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brentsimnitt View Post
Help dude. I have an 03 v-rod that ran perfect until i used mobile 1 vtwin for motorcycles. Immediately the clutch slipped horribly. I flushed it out and went to screaming eagle. It slowed the slip, but when i get on it to change lanes and accelerate the rpms walk away, i lose power, and slow way down. It feels likje a slipping clutch.
I upgraded to a Barnett V-rod model clutch and thought that would fix it. The clutch does the exact same thing and the hotter it gets outside the worse it slips. I replaced the clutch--what the hell else could it be. I have taken it to three different harley shops and they say its fine because it works good until the bike warms up. I am way frustrated...what the hell else could it be? Its getting ridiculous and dangerous and no one has an answer. Help!!!
this is a long shot but i have seen it happen on a v-rod..there is a tiny bleed back hole in the master cyl.. if that hole gets plugged (from old nasty brake fluid) when the bike and the fluid gets hot the fluid in the line will expand and partially disengage the clutch.. i have seen this a couple of times.. the same thing can happen with the brakes only as the brakes get hot it starts applying the brakes,not a fun thing to have happen. i have seen several cases of that happening..
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Old 06-09-2010, 08:40 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hal64hd View Post
If there is air in the clutch system, as the fluid get hotter (which he is complaining about) the air in the system will expand and cause the actuator to apply pressure on the clutch. Just like if you have air in the brake lines the brake will begin to drag and eventually lock up from the expansion of the air in the line.
sorry i have to agree with steve975.. i have seen several v-rods with the fluid aired up and the only real problem is you can`t release the clutch fully and that causes the clutch to drag... as long as the bleed back hole in the master cyl is clear the hose to the slave cyl can`t build up pressure..
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Old 09-07-2010, 02:42 PM   #37
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In my experience, a building pedal, or in this case, clutch, where the toe-play or free play diminishes with application, either the compensator port in the master cylinder is obstructed or the pedal / lever clearance is incorrect and not allowing full piston return. Another possibility that I have encountered is slight swelling of the primary cup. When this swelling occurs, it is possible for an otherwise normal appearing cup to block the port. I have overcome this by back-filling the system, thereby applying pressure to 'apply' the cup thereby pushing it past the compensator port. This technique works well and if successful, doesn't negatively affect the hydraulic system's operation. Check with the service manual for the correct lever to piston clearances and be sure not to reduce the clearances below those tolerances.
Another possibility that I have run into is where the piston doesn't retract fully at all! I have found, especially with DOT 5, that there can be a build-up of gummy to hard crud which prevents the piston from traveling the entire length of the bore (conflict). It is possible that the original assembly lube, (silicone paste or jelly), may not wash away as one would normally find in a more traditional brake/hydraulic system using DOT 3 or 4, leaving that assembly lube to collect, harden and then jam up the works. Careful disassembly and inspection of the master will allow you to clean and correct these issues.
And remember that moisture finds its lowest point in hydraulic systems. After looking at your master, look closely at your slave or actuator. Be sure you have clearance and be very sure that it doesn't bind! It should retract with little resistance (watch out for fluid spillage from master when doing this test - see service manual)
The fact that you had the problem with 2 oils, 2 clutches all of which were different than the former, tells me you have been looking in the wrong lunch-box. Good luck

Last edited by Olds13; 09-07-2010 at 02:46 PM. Reason: adding
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Old 12-25-2011, 02:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hal64hd View Post
If there is air in the clutch system, as the fluid get hotter (which he is complaining about) the air in the system will expand and cause the actuator to apply pressure on the clutch. Just like if you have air in the brake lines the brake will begin to drag and eventually lock up from the expansion of the air in the line.


If the air expands so will the fluid. Air is compressible, fluid (oil) is not. The compensating port prevents this expansion from applying unwanted pressure in the feed line.
Just sayin'.
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Old 12-25-2011, 05:08 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown View Post
this is a long shot but i have seen it happen on a v-rod..there is a tiny bleed back hole in the master cyl.. if that hole gets plugged (from old nasty brake fluid) when the bike and the fluid gets hot the fluid in the line will expand and partially disengage the clutch.. i have seen this a couple of times.. the same thing can happen with the brakes only as the brakes get hot it starts applying the brakes,not a fun thing to have happen. i have seen several cases of that happening..
Here's another long shot. If you fill the master cyl. completely to the top, the oil has nowhere to go when it expands. Quite likely the clutch will begin to disenagage when the oil becomes hot. I have seen it happen on brake systems. It is not like a car which usually has a diaphragm with an air space above it in the lid.
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Old 12-25-2011, 09:27 PM   #40
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Here's another long shot. If you fill the master cyl. completely to the top, the oil has nowhere to go when it expands. Quite likely the clutch will begin to disenagage when the oil becomes hot. I have seen it happen on brake systems. It is not like a car which usually has a diaphragm with an air space above it in the lid.
I don't know about yours, but my bike has rubber bellows cover gaskets which act exactly the same as any hydraulic reservoir cover designed to exclude air/moisture, yet allow for volumetric changes. And no.. air cannot apply clutches, but lbrown points to exactly what to I referred to back in September '10 - that the compensator port sometimes gets blocked (either with 'scum' or the primary boot) which prevents complete pressure release after clutch activation.
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:04 PM   #41
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Does the clutch lever get harder to press as the engine warms up? Does it disengage the clutch sooner? How far does the clutch lever need to be squeezed before it disengages?

I wonder if your hydraulic line is collapsed internally preventing the pressure from fully releasing.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:30 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amcpacer View Post
Does the clutch lever get harder to press as the engine warms up? Does it disengage the clutch sooner? How far does the clutch lever need to be squeezed before it disengages?

I wonder if your hydraulic line is collapsed internally preventing the pressure from fully releasing.
Are you asking a general question or responding to a previous post? If responding to a previous post, which one?

The last poster with a problem was post #3 from "brentsimnitt" back in February, 2009. All the other posts after this one (other than yours and this one) was either a discussion of the proper engine oil for a wet clutch or in response to brentsimnitt's problem.
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Old 03-12-2012, 12:00 PM   #43
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This is fascinating. I have an occasional clutch slip from Second Gear into neutral... been puzzling me for 2 years and happens so rarely I just ignore it.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:05 AM   #44
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Oil change for a 04 Vrod!
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:41 AM   #45
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I've just discovered why my clutch goes soft and needs an occasional re-bleed!~
I found the actuator piston seal seeping fluid into the engine/clutch cavity! The boot was keeping the fluid mostly inside until the pressure swelled the boot enough to push it over the actuator nub, thereby making the clutch feel 'rubbery' and lower to the point that it wouldn't release. I drained the escaped fluid from the cavity within the boot and piston, turned the actuator (this is with it in your hands, but still connected) up and gently sqeezed the piston down, back into the body. Abundant air bubbles came out and continued to until all the air escaped past the defective piston seal. Now I realize that even though I am running the best oil, it is now contaminated with a bit of DOT-5 brake fluid. Uh ohh
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