Fork Oil and Progressive Spring - Page 2 - 1130cc.com: The #1 Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum
» Sponsors
Go Back   1130cc.com: The #1 Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum > Specific Model > VRSCD
New User? Register - Forgot Password

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-21-2014, 10:05 AM   #16
rsc
Killer Service Inc.
 
rsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 8,921
Images: 1
Garage
Feedback Score: 8 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by rc4man View Post
You won't get it all out because half is below the damper.
pump it it will come out.
__________________
2003 turbo
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2012 Ultra Classic

Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion!
You're merely over-educated beyond your ability to think!

Malcomx" It turns out that the truth is pretty good protection."
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


V-rod mechanics 101:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


The opinions expressed here are solely those of the original author. These opinions do not represent those of KSI-LLC.com / Killer Service and Innovations, LLC
rsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-21-2014, 01:52 PM   #17
Curtis_J
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St. John's, NL
Posts: 53
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsc View Post
pump it it will come out.
Can you elaborate on this a bit? I'm just lazy and don't want to remove the forks if there is an easier way. Thanks.
Curtis_J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2014, 09:43 PM   #18
rsc
Killer Service Inc.
 
rsc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 8,921
Images: 1
Garage
Feedback Score: 8 reviews
It is better to take them out.

Watch video... Link in Sig.
__________________
2003 turbo
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2012 Ultra Classic

Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion!
You're merely over-educated beyond your ability to think!

Malcomx" It turns out that the truth is pretty good protection."
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


V-rod mechanics 101:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


The opinions expressed here are solely those of the original author. These opinions do not represent those of KSI-LLC.com / Killer Service and Innovations, LLC
rsc is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Old 06-21-2014, 10:20 PM   #19
Curtis_J
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St. John's, NL
Posts: 53
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsc View Post
It is better to take them out.

Watch video... Link in Sig.
Thanks, rsc, good to have the video so I know what to expect. That said, I do have one possibly stupid question. That plug (screw) that holds the rod into the fork lowers, if I were to remove that screw, would all the fork oil just drain from the forks? Thanks.
Curtis_J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 01:59 PM   #20
Curtis_J
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St. John's, NL
Posts: 53
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
So I completed the change last night, ended up removing the forks from the triple trees afterall, which was pretty straightforward, only took me a little over an hour to do the changeover. Have to say the ride is much nicer now, seems much more compliant over bumps & ruts, turn in is sharper and it's easier to hold speed in a sweeping turn. Brake dive is slightly reduced, chatter under braking hasn't much changed, although a slight improvement. Overall well worth the investment. Next step is to add a fork brace and to swap out the rear shocks. Thanks for all the insight guys, especially RSCROD, your videos were a big help.
Curtis_J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 02:26 PM   #21
rc4man
EXCELSIOR
 
rc4man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Out there
Posts: 8,364
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Chatter/shudder of brakes is another issue, not fork related.

I didn't have it till I switched to Lyndall pads and within 1000 miles brake discs were awful.
Ended going back to stock pads, removing the rotors and sanding glaze off and eliminated most of it. In the end I'll be replacing the discs.
__________________
"V" Rod Forman, '04 Anodized "B", 50th B-day gift from wife.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rc4man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2014, 09:05 PM   #22
Curtis_J
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St. John's, NL
Posts: 53
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I said chatter, but maybe the word I should have used was "clatter". My '12 Dyna did it something awful right from day one. So it was nothing unusal to me with the D. What I'm refering to is a sound the bike makes under braking and hard bumps, I suppose it could be loose tolerances in the steering head/neck bearing, or just a rattle of the suspension. But, like I said, my dyna always did it, probably more of just a Harley quirk. Although I will take it to the dealer sometime soon, just to have them test ride and make sure everything is tight and right for the vrod.
Curtis_J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2014, 08:49 AM   #23
rc4man
EXCELSIOR
 
rc4man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Out there
Posts: 8,364
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
There is a phenomenon refered to here as the "clunk", and a couple possible reasons and cures or not for it.

One is as you suspected the head bearings. Check the adjustment, you can find reference here if you do a search for "fall away". After making sure the head bearings are properly set, there was an update related to the steering stem and stem nut on later models.

Early models used an aluminum stem and later ones use a steel stem, also the later nut is flanged. Both items are an improvement but the stem can not be purchased individually but the nut can. You can check easily, there's a cap that screws onto the stem and covers the nut, remove it, only hand tight. There will either be a nut with tab notches and a lock tab (early type) ot a flanged nut without tab and notches. Thisis the one you want to have.

Also early Kelsey Hayes braked models, there is a bit of slop in the holes where the pad retaining pins fit. I find on my 04 that if you roll it forward and apply brake it makes a noise, a click more than a clunk, then if you roll it back and apply brake it makes the noise again. The pads float and stop as the holes limit movement, I think the bare aluminum fender amplifies the noise. Can't say this applies to those bikes with Brembo brakes.
__________________
"V" Rod Forman, '04 Anodized "B", 50th B-day gift from wife.
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
rc4man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2014, 08:26 PM   #24
Curtis_J
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St. John's, NL
Posts: 53
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Thanks very much, I will check on the nut for sure.
Curtis_J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2018, 12:23 PM   #25
1HD1HD
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 11
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
This is a post
1HD1HD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2019, 09:28 AM   #26
yanlauris
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Bauru/SP Brasil
Posts: 15
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Hello everyone
I bought a 11-1535 progressive suspension kit for my muscle 2014 and I have had a lot of trouble braking the front wheel. when I brake the front wheel with a small touch on the brake the wheel starts to vibrate a lot. I changed the oil fork twice (20w after 10W), cut the spacer that comes with the kit according to the manual (34mm both sides). I checked the full front brake, checked the steering wheel and everything is all right ...
One thing I noticed is that the progressive suspension website (rev.C) manual tells me NOT to cut the spacers and the manual that came in my kit tells me to cut 34mm the spacers (rev.D).
I wonder if anyone had similar problems? Anyone have any ideas? because I am thinking of returning the original HD springs ...
yanlauris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2019, 12:29 AM   #27
Knut J
VRSC est -03
 
Knut J's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Arctic Circle, Norway
Posts: 2,203
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
[QUOTE=yanlauris; when I brake the front wheel with a small touch on the brake the wheel starts to vibrate a lot.[/QUOTE]

Check for wavy brake rotors/disc.
__________________

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
WILL RACE FOR FOOD!
Knut J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2019, 11:12 PM   #28
stevemcgov
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Marlboro MA USA
Posts: 246
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
checked the steering wheel. huh?
stevemcgov is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2019, 04:44 PM   #29
Mromaus
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Georgia
Posts: 290
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
When you fill fork tubes with fluid, you need to pump the fork tube up and down (This can be difficult) to get the fluid to flow through the dampener. When you pump the fluid you will see air bubbles come out. It is not until you see the air bubbles stop that you can get an accurate level for the oil.

I recommend using a fork tube fluid tool for this job. It makes life a lot easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08...s%2C159&sr=8-3

....

Some advice:
I have rebuilt suspension several times, and despite what you see on Youtube, I can not for the life of me keep this a clean job.

Every time I rebuild suspension fork fluid ends up every where and the crap is ultra slick.

What I finally started doing is purchasing a plastic drop cloth from Lowes or Home Depot and lining my work space with it. The stuff gets on you and under your feet and it makes oil seem like sticky tar.

Lastly: I recently did this job with racetech emulators and progressive fork springs using Motul 20w fluid (Racetech recommended weight).

I weigh about 185 lbs. I keep my suspension on my race bike pretty stiff. Using the shim length that progressive provides was way to stiff for me. The suspension felt jagged and unforgiving, at one point I found myself having a difficult time getting out of road seems and dips. I don't know if this is a result of putting Racetech emulators with progressive forks. I am just letting you know you may have to adjust those shims. I ended up taking about 1.5" off my shims and made the vrod ride closer to my Aprilia.
Mromaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2019, 04:52 PM   #30
Mromaus
Registered Full
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Georgia
Posts: 290
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by yanlauris View Post
Hello everyone
I bought a 11-1535 progressive suspension kit for my muscle 2014 and I have had a lot of trouble braking the front wheel. when I brake the front wheel with a small touch on the brake the wheel starts to vibrate a lot. I changed the oil fork twice (20w after 10W), cut the spacer that comes with the kit according to the manual (34mm both sides). I checked the full front brake, checked the steering wheel and everything is all right ...
One thing I noticed is that the progressive suspension website (rev.C) manual tells me NOT to cut the spacers and the manual that came in my kit tells me to cut 34mm the spacers (rev.D).
I wonder if anyone had similar problems? Anyone have any ideas? because I am thinking of returning the original HD springs ...
I had this very same confusion. I tried to communicate with the Racetech tech guy about this and couldn't get a straight answer. At one point it was recommended that I add 25mm of preload which was impossible, because at that length the shim wouldn't reach the cap. I used progressive springs and Racetech emulators.

I had to cut down my shims a few times until I was close to what I wanted. The bike is still a little stiffer than I prefer.

I tried to research if there was a formula to figure out shim length, and that must be too technical a question.

You can get 2" PVC pipe and experiment with the shims. Mine are at the point where there is just some effort to put the cap back on. I did purchase preload adjuster caps, but I did not need to add preload where they are now. I have a feeling the springs will brake in over time and become looser. I honestly considered returning Progressive springs too, I think regular duty is set up for a much heavier rider than me with stock exhaust.
Mromaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:22 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Motorcycle News, Videos and Reviews
Honda Grom Forum strong>Kawasaki Z125 Forum Harley Davidson Forum Honda 600RR Forum Kawasaki Forum Yamaha R6 Forum Yamaha FZ-09 Forum
1199 Panigale Forum Honda Africa Twin Forum Roadglide Forum Honda CBR1000 Forum Vulcan Forum Yamaha R1 Forum Yamaha R3 Forum
Ducati Monster Forum Harley Forums Honda CBR250R Forum ZX10R Forum Star Raider Forum Yamaha Viking Forum
Suzuki GSXR Forum V-Rod Forums Honda Shadow Forum Kawasaki Motorcycle Forum Star Warrior Forum KTM Duke 390 Forum
SV650 Forum BMW S1000RR Forum Honda Fury Forum Kawasaki Versys Forum Drag Racing Forum Ducati 899 Panigale Forum Ducati 959 Panigale Forum
Suzuki V-Strom BMW K1600 Triumph Forum Victory Forums Sportbikes BMW NineT Forum
Volusia Forum BMW F800 Forum Triumph 675 Forum MV Agusta Forum HD Street Forum Suzuki GW250 Forum
Yamaha Motorcycles Victory Gunner Forum Victory Charger Forum Honda Vultus Forum HD LiveWire Forum Ninja H2 Forum
BMW Scrambler Forum Ducati Scrambler Forum Kawasaki Ninja 250SL Forum