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Fork Oil and Progressive Spring

13K views 31 replies 16 participants last post by  2003 VRod Rider 
#1 ·
Finally decide to do something about suspension on my 07 D. Decide to change to SE 15 fork oil and progressive spring to improve handling. Have a few questions to ask before I do anything stupid.

1. How many inches from the top? My research showing I need 32 oz each fork so I need 4 pint total. Anyone has service manual can confirm?

2. On Progressive website showing 11-1525 18", anyone can confirm if it will fit? 18 is stock length?

3. Is this a difficult job? Do I need to remove anything wheels etc? Or I just need to drain oil, take out old spring and put new ones and new oil in.

Thank you very much folks.
 
#2 ·
Loosen fork caps because you'll need to remove the fork tubes to pour the oil out. Put bike on lift, remove brake calipers and let hang by hoses, remove fender, remove front wheel, loosen triple clamp pinch bolts and slide fork tube out of trees, remove cap, spring and pour out oil, you may need to pump it a bit to make sure all oil is cycled out.
Reverse steps for reassembly, without spring pour in oil to recommended level, put in spring, compress with cap and carefully turn to re-engage threads and tighten.
 
#8 ·
watch the video...

link in Sig.
 
#9 ·
I also have an 07D and purchased Progressive 11-1535's and used Amsoil Shock Therapy Suspension Fluid #10 Medium. Can't recall how much I used, but I want to say it was 2 quarts or less. There was a great write-up here somewhere (probably in the suspension forum). You'll want to fabricate a vise out of a wood clamp. Works like a charm. I drained my forks on the bike (front wheel off) and then took them off and removed/replaced the parts. Just an FYI, they are highly compressed, so be ready to hold back that spring from ejecting when you loosen the fork nut. The nut also has really tight threads and can strip easily, so keep that in mind also when replacing them. Progressive will give you the option of using their stock spacer or cutting it shorter depending on your riding preference (the spacers are just a piece of PVC pipe). I used them at stock length, and they're a bit stiff for my liking. I may take them back out and cut a 1/4" off. Good luck!
 
#10 ·
I'm also looking to install progressives on my 08 DX with the SE fluid. For those that have done this would you say its worth it or would you recommend just changing over to the SE fluid? Can anyone comment on progressives HD forks and the ride quality? I'm 215lbs and ride with a passenger about 10 percent of the time. Thanks!
 
#11 ·
When I did my forks the first time, I installed stock height progressive springs and used Amsoil shock therapy but I honestly don't recall the oil weight. I can say it made things much better then stock with regard to brake dive and response. Ultimately I went with the Race Tech set up as I was looking for more from the forks. But you are headed in the right direction. As for doing it yourself, its not too hard, basic steps are outlined above. Take your time, you will need a manual to get torque ratings for bolts but overall its not a crazy complex job.
 
#12 ·
Have progressive springs on order, hopefully do this mod over the weekend. Once you have the cap off and springs out, couldn't you just use an extra large syringe with fuel line hose attached to siphon the fork oil out? Don't want to take my forks off if I don't have to. If I did it that way, would there be anything preventing me from getting all the oil out?
 
#16 ·
pump it it will come out.
 
#14 ·
Thanks for the replies, I'm definitely going to do this sooner rather than later. I think I may go with the heavy duty springs and stick with a lighter/medium weight oil. Most likely I'll let the shop do the install though. I'm replacing my tires this week after recently plugging a screw hole and am going to try a new shop, up and running cycles in Springfield VA. If all goes well ill probably have them do the spring install as well.
 
#18 ·
It is better to take them out.

Watch video... Link in Sig.
 
#20 ·
So I completed the change last night, ended up removing the forks from the triple trees afterall, which was pretty straightforward, only took me a little over an hour to do the changeover. Have to say the ride is much nicer now, seems much more compliant over bumps & ruts, turn in is sharper and it's easier to hold speed in a sweeping turn. Brake dive is slightly reduced, chatter under braking hasn't much changed, although a slight improvement. Overall well worth the investment. Next step is to add a fork brace and to swap out the rear shocks. Thanks for all the insight guys, especially RSCROD, your videos were a big help.
 
#21 ·
Chatter/shudder of brakes is another issue, not fork related.

I didn't have it till I switched to Lyndall pads and within 1000 miles brake discs were awful.
Ended going back to stock pads, removing the rotors and sanding glaze off and eliminated most of it. In the end I'll be replacing the discs.
 
#22 ·
I said chatter, but maybe the word I should have used was "clatter". My '12 Dyna did it something awful right from day one. So it was nothing unusal to me with the D. What I'm refering to is a sound the bike makes under braking and hard bumps, I suppose it could be loose tolerances in the steering head/neck bearing, or just a rattle of the suspension. But, like I said, my dyna always did it, probably more of just a Harley quirk. Although I will take it to the dealer sometime soon, just to have them test ride and make sure everything is tight and right for the vrod.
 
#23 ·
There is a phenomenon refered to here as the "clunk", and a couple possible reasons and cures or not for it.

One is as you suspected the head bearings. Check the adjustment, you can find reference here if you do a search for "fall away". After making sure the head bearings are properly set, there was an update related to the steering stem and stem nut on later models.

Early models used an aluminum stem and later ones use a steel stem, also the later nut is flanged. Both items are an improvement but the stem can not be purchased individually but the nut can. You can check easily, there's a cap that screws onto the stem and covers the nut, remove it, only hand tight. There will either be a nut with tab notches and a lock tab (early type) ot a flanged nut without tab and notches. Thisis the one you want to have.

Also early Kelsey Hayes braked models, there is a bit of slop in the holes where the pad retaining pins fit. I find on my 04 that if you roll it forward and apply brake it makes a noise, a click more than a clunk, then if you roll it back and apply brake it makes the noise again. The pads float and stop as the holes limit movement, I think the bare aluminum fender amplifies the noise. Can't say this applies to those bikes with Brembo brakes.
 
#26 ·
Hello everyone
I bought a 11-1535 progressive suspension kit for my muscle 2014 and I have had a lot of trouble braking the front wheel. when I brake the front wheel with a small touch on the brake the wheel starts to vibrate a lot. I changed the oil fork twice (20w after 10W), cut the spacer that comes with the kit according to the manual (34mm both sides). I checked the full front brake, checked the steering wheel and everything is all right ...
One thing I noticed is that the progressive suspension website (rev.C) manual tells me NOT to cut the spacers and the manual that came in my kit tells me to cut 34mm the spacers (rev.D).
I wonder if anyone had similar problems? Anyone have any ideas? because I am thinking of returning the original HD springs ...
 
#30 ·
I had this very same confusion. I tried to communicate with the Racetech tech guy about this and couldn't get a straight answer. At one point it was recommended that I add 25mm of preload which was impossible, because at that length the shim wouldn't reach the cap. I used progressive springs and Racetech emulators.

I had to cut down my shims a few times until I was close to what I wanted. The bike is still a little stiffer than I prefer.

I tried to research if there was a formula to figure out shim length, and that must be too technical a question.

You can get 2" PVC pipe and experiment with the shims. Mine are at the point where there is just some effort to put the cap back on. I did purchase preload adjuster caps, but I did not need to add preload where they are now. I have a feeling the springs will brake in over time and become looser. I honestly considered returning Progressive springs too, I think regular duty is set up for a much heavier rider than me with stock exhaust.
 
#29 ·
When you fill fork tubes with fluid, you need to pump the fork tube up and down (This can be difficult) to get the fluid to flow through the dampener. When you pump the fluid you will see air bubbles come out. It is not until you see the air bubbles stop that you can get an accurate level for the oil.

I recommend using a fork tube fluid tool for this job. It makes life a lot easier.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-0...84&s=gateway&sprefix=fork+oil+,aps,159&sr=8-3

....

Some advice:
I have rebuilt suspension several times, and despite what you see on Youtube, I can not for the life of me keep this a clean job.

Every time I rebuild suspension fork fluid ends up every where and the crap is ultra slick.

What I finally started doing is purchasing a plastic drop cloth from Lowes or Home Depot and lining my work space with it. The stuff gets on you and under your feet and it makes oil seem like sticky tar.

Lastly: I recently did this job with racetech emulators and progressive fork springs using Motul 20w fluid (Racetech recommended weight).

I weigh about 185 lbs. I keep my suspension on my race bike pretty stiff. Using the shim length that progressive provides was way to stiff for me. The suspension felt jagged and unforgiving, at one point I found myself having a difficult time getting out of road seems and dips. I don't know if this is a result of putting Racetech emulators with progressive forks. I am just letting you know you may have to adjust those shims. I ended up taking about 1.5" off my shims and made the vrod ride closer to my Aprilia.
 
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