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Thread: LED Problems
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Old 03-21-2019, 06:42 AM   #2
stever975
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Gaithersburg, MD
Posts: 6,248
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRuiz View Post
Alright guys, so I have a 14' NRS and I've been trying to install some damn LED lights on my bike because they're much brighter than the stock everything lol. But just nothing works like it should and its driving me crazy lol..


I have 3 LED strips.
1st LED Strip (Brake, Running light, L&R Turn signals.)
Only using this for a brake and running light, so I'm using 3 wires. Brake, running light, and ground. Which are on the brake light itself. After I spliced into the significant wires it worked fine.

Now this is where I'm having problems.
Then I have 2 LED strips which are turn signals, and a white running light (which I won't be using.) ground (black) wire, yellow wire (Yellow light), and white light (wont be using)

Now on the bike itself there are a total of 8 wires.
3 grounds = 2 Turn signals and 1 for the license plate light
1 grey wire = power for the license plate light
2 purple wires = constant/blinking
2 blue wires = constant/blinking

I connected the grounds together, then I connected the yellow wire
to the blue wire on the LEFT side of the bike and it would blink when the turn signal was on. okay. so then blue wire is turn signal.

I go to the RIGHT side of the bike and connect the yellow wire to the blue wire on the RIGHT side, and nothing happens when the turn signal is on. so I connect it to the purple wire, and then it blinks when its supposed to....

BUT, the left side is constantly ON (the turn signal icon on the gauge as well) the right side is OFF, but when I activate the turn signal it's like 10 times as bright..

Okay this was last week...

Today, I disconnected all the turn signal stuff because I had just been twisting wires and putting on electrical tape and wanted to use some crimp connections and shrink tube since I had the chance to buy it earlier today.

Now when I started connecting everything how it was, the turn signal would just not blink at all when the turn signal switch was on.. UGHHH, I gave up and put everything away because I ran out of light! Now i can't ride my bike til I get this sorted out cause I don't got turn signals

SOMEBODY PLS HELP ME..

P.S. I blew the 15A "Lights" fuse, replaced it with a 30A fuse
Then blew the 15A "ACCY" fuse, replaced it with the 30A fuse and put the 15A "Fuel pump" fuse in the "lights" hole because I ran out of fuses...
First, the solution to a blown fuse isn't to replace it with a larger value. Stick to 15 A fuses for both the LIGHTS and ACCY fuse. You're blowing fuses because you're connecting the circuits to ground. Using a 30 A fuse will just lead to melted wire insulation or worse. You shouldn't be using the ACCY circuit unless you have an international model bike, so this fuse shouldn't ever blow. Remember to remove the MAIN fuse (located behind the upper right side cover) before working on the bike and only replace it when you're ready to test your modifications.

Concerning your wiring:
The two blue wires aren't constant/blinking. Those come from the LIGHTS fuse and are always hot when the ignition switch is turned to IGN. The two purple (Harley calls it violet) wires come from the TSM/TSSM/HFSM blinker outputs and are always blinking, never constant.

Your first strip that you want to use as a brake/running light should connect to the 4-place tail light "Multilock" connectors. These connectors should have the following wire colors and be connected as follows:
chassis side / lights side
  1. BE (blue) to BE = lights circuit (connect to LED running light +)
  2. O/W (orange with white stripe) to nothing on domestic bikes / O/W on European bikes = accessory circuit (don't use)
  3. R/Y (red with yellow stripe) to R/Y = brake light circuit (connect to LED brake light +)
  4. BK (black) to BK = ground on front cylinder head (connect to both running and brake LED grounds)

The other two LED strips that you want to use as blinkers only should be connected to the 6-place rear signal "Multilock" connectors. These connectors should have the following wire colors and be connected as follows:
chassis side / lights side
  1. BE to BE = lights circuit (don't use)
  2. BK to BK = ground on front cylinder head (can be used as one LED blinker ground)
  3. BN (brown) to V (violet) = right side blinker +
  4. BK to BK = ground on front cylinder head (can be used as one LED blinker ground)
  5. V to V = left side blinker +
  6. BK to BK = ground on front cylinder head (can be used as one LED blinker ground)

Update for international models:
Where are you? Is your bike domestic US or international?

The domestic VRSCDX in 2014 had LED rear lights with a OEM STT (stop/tail/turnsignal) module so I don't know why you would add LED strips. If you have an international bike I need to modify the above info.

Your first strip that you want to use as a brake/running light should connect to the 4-place tail light "Multilock" connectors. These connectors should have the following wire colors and be connected as follows:
chassis side / lights side
  1. BE (blue) to nothing on international bikes = lights circuit (don't use)
  2. O/W (orange with white stripe) to W (white) on international bikes = accessory circuit (connect to LED running light +)
  3. R/Y (red with yellow stripe) to R (red) = brake light circuit (connect to LED brake light +)
  4. BK (black) to BK = ground on front cylinder head (connect to both running and brake LED grounds)

The other two LED strips that you want to use as blinkers only should be connected to the 6-place rear signal "Multilock" connectors. These connectors should have the following wire colors and be connected as follows:chassis side / lights side
  1. BE to BK = lights circuit for license plate lights (don't use)
  2. BK to BK = ground on front cylinder head (for license plate lights)
  3. BN (brown) to V (violet) = right side blinker +
  4. BK to BK = ground on front cylinder head (can be used as one LED blinker ground)
  5. V to V = left side blinker +
  6. BK to BK = ground on front cylinder head (can be used as one LED blinker ground)
Here's a picture showing the VRSC lighting circuits for 2013 that should be the same as yours:

Last edited by stever975; 03-21-2019 at 01:20 PM. Reason: added additional info for international models and schematics
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