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Regulator Question

3K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  Mromaus 
#1 ·
Hi folks,

So I tried this question on the mechanical side and didn't get a response. So I am going to try here.

My charging system has failed at about 14K. Typically it is recommended replacing both the regulator and the stator. I will have Rick's rewind the stator. I do plan on testing the stator, but my experience is that once one goes the other follows.

How are the after market regulators? I was looking at the drag version. It says "solid state" I have not had the opportunity to research that term when it comes to regulators.

Does anyone have an experience with these?

Also, I feel 14K is a bit early for this repair, what are the thoughts on that?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Solid state huh? I think mechanical regulators went out in the mid 60s along with generators. Anyway, there are several replacements in the $55 area. Electronics are flakey for life spans. Some crap out , out of the blue and others last forever. Luck of the draw, basically. Same with stators. No way to know how much extra loading a faulty regulator placed on it , so I guess either a rewind or replacement is an option. Not always needed though.
Ron
 
#3 ·
I was thinking the same thing regarding "solid state".

So I finally looked it up. A traditional regulator uses switches, my guess (with limited technical knowledge) is that it is a similar idea to a relay. Though a regulator and a relay have different functions.

Instead of switches it appears that a solid state regulator uses diodes and transistors to regulate the voltage coming from the stator.

I typically order the OEM version. In this case I am considering the DS one in hopes that it is more reliable than the HD.

At the same time I have not tested the regulator yet.
 
#4 ·
2007 VRSCX 185,000 miles.
I replaced my Stator once. Didn't fix the problem. The regulator has never been replaced. 12 years of reliability here.
 
#8 ·
Mine has been fine for about 1 1/2 years now.
Can't really say what other brands are doing.
I did get mine from Harley dealer.
The stator checked out just fine.
You can also learn how to check them both on YouTube so you won't get buffaloed . Very simple process once you get into it.
Best of luck
 
#10 ·
Still on the OEM stator & regulator on my "R" model @ close to 40,000 miles.
 
#11 ·
Thanks guys!

I appreciate the feedback. I do have look up how to test the regulator again, it has been a while since I have done it. I know it is a simple process.

I will get to work on that this week end, and let you know the outcome.

Thanks again!
 
#12 ·
Just an update.

The regulator is bad. The test has four parts to it. It failed the one where the positive of the multi-meter is on the negative and the negative of the multi-meter is checking the three pins.

I am on the fence about trying the DS version of this regulator. I typically go OEM for this, but I do feel that 15k is a little soon for that repair.

I did not test the stator (I think there is a simple test for that too), but I opened the case and it looks pretty healthy. Typically they get dark, like burnt looking when they go bad. I may send it out to get rewound anyway by Rick's since the engine is open. I have never replaced a stator made by Rick's.

Thanks again guys.
 
#13 ·
Take the time and check the stator. It takes about 30 seconds or less. Electrical connectors or winding's can open up and you will never see it via visual inspection.
 
#15 ·
Corrosion is never good. You are smart to replace it now instead of waiting for another failure that could be hard to diagnose.
 
#19 ·
In this case the regulator is at fault. So you are right.

In my experience one causes the other. So, if a stator is working less efficiently than it should it can stress the regulator to failure.

Also, typically with Japanese bikes both the OEM regulator and stator fail with in close succession, so it just makes sense to replace both.

A sign of stator health is how dark they appear(I believe this is due to the coating on the stator burning), once the coating of the stator fails they will stop working. What I was suggesting earlier is that if the stator is in iffy shape, I would just have it rewound while I had the bike apart, to save me the trouble of another charging failure.

I was harping on Rick's stators because they are one of the best around, they make their own stators and I never replaced one. I have a buddy with a Kawasaki Vulcan and a Rick's he put 40K on the thing with no issues.

I am replacing the stator in this case because a couple of the prongs are very rusted, and I prefer just to get a new one instead of having that cleaned up. I will point out that those prongs are also darker than the others, suggesting that this stator would have failed sooner than later. I will send a picture out next weekend so that you guys can see what I am saying.

Thanks for your help guys!
 
#20 ·
Here are the pics I mentioned.



If you look near my thumb on the picture with the stator, you will see the prongs getting darker. That is not a shadow, and I interpret that as those prongs getting hotter than the others. This is what made me consider getting the stator rewound before the coating failed.

There are the two stators side by side. I didn't take the "discoloration" as any indication. Maybe they changed the coating from what was used 13 years ago.


There are the rusted ends of the prongs. This is why I opted to replace the stator as opposed to having it rewound.

All in all a fairly easy repair. I order both parts OEM and I was super impressed by the stator that HD sent. No soldering required! I wish all makes would do that.

Thanks again guys for your import. You were all super helpful!:cheers:
 

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