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Old 01-11-2013, 12:16 PM   #1
RF_R_US
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Cool Went to the "DARK SIDE"

Still have my "R", but the girlfriend doesn't think it's long distance friendly, ....SOOOOOO picked up an '05 FLH Ultra Classic, let the spending begin :-)
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"D" headlight, Kuryakan LED mirrors, Heavycycles Stage II Tail Light, Rinehart 2:1, Works Custom 14.25" Shocks, Racetech Forks (best investment $$$ can buy), Wicked Airbox, Thundermax (now I can REALLY screw up this bike), etc., etc.

Other Fossil Fuel Burning Toys: '95 GPZ1100, '96 KLR650, '73 Chevy Nova SS yeah it's :bad:
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:29 PM   #2
Knut J
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Yep, Your wallet are into trouble now!
LOTS of stuff out there to that kind of bikes!

I bought myself a Street Glide (panic) last year
-cause the Rod wasnt `done`..
ebay ebay ebay.

True-Track 1st?
Knut.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:33 PM   #3
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...what's a true-track? Put the battery on a charger (looks to be stock) and noticed it's got a CD and a CB, jeez does one actually ride these things ;-) Need new skins, probably a battery and oil change and we're ready to "lounge" !
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"D" headlight, Kuryakan LED mirrors, Heavycycles Stage II Tail Light, Rinehart 2:1, Works Custom 14.25" Shocks, Racetech Forks (best investment $$$ can buy), Wicked Airbox, Thundermax (now I can REALLY screw up this bike), etc., etc.

Other Fossil Fuel Burning Toys: '95 GPZ1100, '96 KLR650, '73 Chevy Nova SS yeah it's :bad:
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:42 PM   #4
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Hei.
Those bikes cant be compared to Rods..
Something different!!
TrueTrack? Do a Google-search,
a must-have on those elephants..
Good Luck & happy wife!
Knut.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RF_R_US View Post
...what's a true-track? Put the battery on a charger (looks to be stock) and noticed it's got a CD and a CB, jeez does one actually ride these things ;-) Need new skins, probably a battery and oil change and we're ready to "lounge" !
The swingarm pivots on a shaft through the rear of the transmission case. The whole engine and gearbox assembly float on isoelastic engine mounts. There is a linkage in the front of the engine to keep the engine from moving from side to side on the front engine mount, but no similar linkage at the rear. The rear of the transmission is sandwiched between two engine mounts, but the reality is the rear of the gearbox with the swingarm attached move from side to side under even mild cornering loads. The motion sets up a weave on sweeping corners. This is true, but to a lesser degree, of V-Rods including the R.

The True Track linkage is like your front linkage, but it attaches to the frame under the bike on a bagger and to a bracket attached to the oil sump at the rear of the gearbox housing. Now the engine and gearbox cannot move side to side and the weave is eliminated.
I put one on my R and found it was the single biggest handling improvement you could make to that bike. The Road Glides I have ridden had a sloppy loose feeling to them at the rear, and the True-Track linkage cleans that up. It also greatly extends the service life of the difficult to replace rear engine mounts.
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:00 PM   #6
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Philthy;
I was waiting for You..
Thanks to You I`ve been buying 3 kits from True-Track,
DX
FLHX
FXDB
Great products.
Thanks for tech information in the post above.
Knut.
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Old 01-11-2013, 05:22 PM   #7
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Yes, P knows his stuff!
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:28 PM   #8
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How hard are the true-tracks to install?
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knut johansen View Post
True-Track 1st?
Knut.
H-D major major improvement to the ride quality with the much stiffer frame conversion on FL bikes in 2009. Prior to that, I think a true track would be close to the top of the list.
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:23 AM   #10
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Enjoy your new ride.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:39 PM   #11
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How hard are the true-tracks to install?
I haven't installed one on a bagger. The one for the V-Rod requires some patience and manual dexterity. Number one, the exhaust has to come off so you can mount an aluminum mounting block to the top of the engine case over the transmission. Space to turn wrenches is at a premium. I highly recommend taping over every gap between the engine and frame so small parts are not lost forever (don't ask :-/ ).

I wish the folks from True-Track would tell me it's ok to post up the photos I took, but there are apparently patent concerns, so I have to respect their wishes. The bracket that holds the linkage to the frame attaches around the countershaft to a pair of round bosses conveniently built into the frame, almost as if HD was planning ahead for True-Track. They serve no apparent purpose. Anyhoo, the flat nuts required to get between the frame and the engine case, and the limited room for fat fists like mine to work in requires a bent coat hanger, some tape and a lot of patience to get the screw to thread into the nut. Don't forget to tape the gap between the fuel cell and the frame down there. Once a flat nut disappears down there you will never see it again....sigh.

Once that is done, the rest is a breeze. Budget six hours at least and don't even think of being in a hurry. Take your time and be patient. Oh yeah, one other thing. All of True-Track's fasteners use SAE sizes, which for me was a PITA. Almost all of my tools, and all of the good ones, are metric.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:44 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by free bird View Post
H-D major major improvement to the ride quality with the much stiffer frame conversion on FL bikes in 2009. Prior to that, I think a true track would be close to the top of the list.
Eh, I thought that would be the case too, but a test ride on a 2011 Road Glide disabused me of that idea. It has a nice slow weave taking big freeway ramps at 65-70 mph, a speed that any car would manage easily on the same ramps.

The problem isn't the frame but the engine mounts flexing under cornering loads. Since the swingarm rides on the back of the gearbox, any motion of the engine and gearbox in the frame translates into suspension movement. That's where the slow weave comes from. It is the same with the V-Rod, but the amount of motion is less, probably because they are a bit lighter.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:51 AM   #13
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tail wag

I used this product http://sta-bo.com/id5.html on my 2006 Roadglide, took tail wag to 0. Been in place for about 20K with no change in performance. Best mod on bike!
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Old 01-16-2013, 05:55 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by grandpawgriz View Post
I used this product http://sta-bo.com/id5.html on my 2006 Roadglide, took tail wag to 0. Been in place for about 20K with no change in performance. Best mod on bike!
The current bushing is not Delrin and for good reason I believe. I considered and rejected Delrin for V-Rod engine mounts. The toughened Delrin compositions go soft between 115 and 140 degrees C (239 and 284 F) and melt outright at 178 degrees C (352 F). If experience with Derin engine mounts on FXR chassis is a guide, Delrin will melt at the operating temperatures encountered in these applications. I would consider a sintered bronze bushing if a way to retain lubricant could be devised. Until then I will stick with the stock part.

http://www2.dupont.com/Plastics/en_U...ign/DELDGe.pdf
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Old 01-17-2013, 06:09 AM   #15
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bushings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Philthy View Post
The current bushing is not Delrin and for good reason I believe. I considered and rejected Delrin for V-Rod engine mounts. The toughened Delrin compositions go soft between 115 and 140 degrees C (239 and 284 F) and melt outright at 178 degrees C (352 F). If experience with Derin engine mounts on FXR chassis is a guide, Delrin will melt at the operating temperatures encountered in these applications. I would consider a sintered bronze bushing if a way to retain lubricant could be devised. Until then I will stick with the stock part.

http://www2.dupont.com/Plastics/en_U...ign/DELDGe.pdf

I used this product in a bagger swing arm; it goes in under the bushing covers and supports the OEM part. As I stated this product has been in and used hard and shown no decrease in performance since the install. “0 tail wag for a little $$$$$”
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