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How To: Installing Progressive Lowering Springs

16K views 42 replies 21 participants last post by  cisdix 
#1 ·
After looking around for several weeks, reading a lot of posts, asking a lot of questions, I finally tackled installation of a Progressive Front End Lowering kit. Since I just completed it last night, I thought I'd write it all down while it's still fresh in my mind. A lot of this information is posted in the Forum on various threads, and on Progressive's website, but I could find no where it's all listed together. So...here's another contribution to you guys ....and girls...(Val made me say that!) ;)

Overall, the process is really pretty easy...there's a lot of steps, but they're all pretty straight forward, with few 'gotchas' involved. I did find what I think is a better way to drain oil from the forks, and I've incorporated this in the How To instructions. I didn't take any pictures during the process, mainly because of my advanced case of CRS...but, also because my hands got really oily from all the fork oil, and touching my digital camera would have probably oiled it down pretty good.

Tools Needed: Nothing exotic, you probably already have most of what you need on hand if you've done any maintenance to your V-Rod in the past. You'll need a good set of metric allen head wrenches, or 'sockets', if you will. My set fits 3/8" drive ratchets, and worked well. You'll also need a longer 6mm allen wrench to fit the Seat Pipe Screw on the bottom of each fork. It's also very helpful to have a 1 3/8" socket to remove the Fork Stem Caps, and you'll need an HD Service Manual for all the gory details. But, my instructions will list all the steps as documented in the Service Manual. In place of the suggested HD Service Tool to re-install the oil seals, get about a 2 foot piece of 2" inside diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe. Works great...and is cheap enough...I paid $3.64 for a 5 foot piece at Lowe's.

Parts Needed: Obviously, the Progressive Lowering Spring Kit. The Service Manual says to replace the oil seals in the top of the sliders, and the O-rings in the fork stem cap, and I used almost 4 pints of HD Screamin' Eagle Performance Fork Oil.

Cost: Progressive Lowering Kit, $115, delivered. Two O-Rings at $1.00/ea, $2.00. Two oil seals at $5.65/ea, $11.30. Four pints of HD Screamin' Eagle Fork Oil at $4.85/ea, $19.40...all plus tax...so a shade over $150.00.

Time Needed: The first fork took about 3 hours, as I was being very careful to explore everything before I disassembled anything. Plus, I had to work out where to put things, how much oil was going to drain out...I spent a lot of time cleaning up the spilled fork oil...what a freakin' mess..! :goof: But, the second fork only took about 20-30 minutes, mainly because not only was I more familiar with the fork and internals, but because I figured out a better way to drain the fork oil. This made for much less mess to clean up. I think I could do another V-Rod in about an hour and a half, maybe two hours...start to finish.

Degree of Difficulty: I'd give this about a 5 or 6 out of a possible 10, with 10 being the most difficult and requiring the most mechanical knowledge and tools. If you've got a decent tool box, and decent mechanical skills, you should have no problems.

Okay....see the next email for the instructions...

Oh...and here's what my 'rod looks like in my garage this morning...after installing the lowering kit...
 

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#2 ·
BE PREPARED...this is a messy job. That damned fork oil gets everywhere real fast. Make sure you have towels, a bucket, some coffee cans, etc, to catch the oil. I got about 24-26 ounces of fork oil out of each fork. But, check my instructions for a trick I found that seems to work well to drain the forks BEFORE they're removed from the triple tree...

NOTE: Steps from the HD Service Manual are in regular type...my notes and deviations are in italics...

1. Support the motorcycle so front end is off the floor and forks are fully extended.

2. Remove both front brake calipers. Be sure and support these so they won't just dangle from the brake lines. I used some coat hangers to make a couple of hangers that hooked on the triple tree and calipers to support this weight. Caution: Do not attempt to operate the front brake handle with the calipers removed. Sufficient pressure could be generated to expel the brake caliper pistons from their bore, requiring disassembly of the calipers to reinsert them. .

3. Remove front wheel. Insure you document the location and orientation of the front axle spacers. There were some small wedge-shaped marks on the outward facing edges of my spacers. Maybe their orientation doesn't make any difference, maybe it does...I wasn't willing to gamble here.

4. Remove front fender and fender bracket. Be careful here...it'll scratch really easily...!

5. While the forks are still in the triple tree, make a measuring device to help you get them back in the triple tree and adjusted to the same height above the head as it came from the factory. Of course, this is optional...you can raise them if you want, but I personally am not crazy about that look. It's your choice. I made a little measuring device using a small piece of white cardboard. I laid it on it's edge against the top of the fork sticking up above the head, and then made a small pencil mark on the cardboard to line up with the top of the seam between the fork stem cap and fork. Save this piece of cardboard somewhere safe...you won't need it again until the forks go back in your triple tree.

6. Using the 1 3/8" socket, just crack the Fork Stem Caps slightly....just loosen them at this time just enough to see the black rubber O-rings. BE CAREFUL and don't go too far...there's a tubular spring collar in there, and a compression spring that's under a lot of pressure. Loosen the caps too far and you'll be REALLY surprised when all that comes shooting out of the top of the fork! So, while the bike is on the jack and you can use the mass of the bike to stablize it, just loosen these caps slightly.

Okay...break for the next installment..
 
#3 ·
7. Okay...here's the trick I found that makes draining the old fork oil out really easy and not near as messy. At the bottom of each fork, there's a 6mm allen headed screw and washer that holds the seat pipe, or damper, stationary in the slider. The Service Manual instructs you to loosen this after the forks are off the bike. I found it MUCH easier to crack this loose while the forks were still on the bike and the bike still on the jack. This lets the triple tree hold the forks for you, making leverage a helluva lot easier. Ever try to hold something round - and not scratch it up - while you crack a bolt loose...? Trust me, my way worked way better...

But, then I went one step further. With the forks still in the triple tree, I thought, why not just remove this seat pipe screw and allow the oil to drain out the forks through the open hole? Well...it works great, but only after you've cracked the fork tube stem caps loose a little to allow air to get in, thus preventing a vacuum. There's also a copper washer under this screw which may or may not fall out...it didn't on either of my forks, but don't lose it if it does...you'll need it again. With this screw removed, while holding a coffee can or other suitable container under each fork to catch the expelled oil, slowly compress each fork and the old oil will squirt out the bottom of the fork through this hole. It comes out with pretty good force, so be prepared for it. It took about 6-8 full compressions and extensions to drain both forks on my bike. Each fork had almost two full coffee cans of oil in them. This is MUCH better than removing the forks from the bike, then pouring the oil out into a container by turning them upside down. My way seems to work well, and it's not near the mess. Oh..and the compression and extension cycles get to sounding like the Paris Hilton video...
;)

Okay....break for the next steps...
 
#4 ·
Great post!! :thumb:

Oop, didn't mean to post so early. My bad. :bash: :spank: :chair:

Just a little premature, yeah I know, that's what she said.
 
#5 ·
8. Loosen the top triple tree pinch bolt.

9. Supporting the fork, loosen the bottom triple tree pinch clamp and withdraw the fork from the triple tree. Work slowly and take your time here...it's easy to not pull straight out and have the fork bind on the triple tree. This could cause scratches on the fork, so be careful here. Work slowly and deliberately, and stop if you encounter any binding.

10. Clamp the fork tube and slider assembly in FORK TUBE HOLDER (HD-41177) and mount in vice. Needless to say, I didn't have Harley's special tool. I simply propped the fork up against some cabinets above my work bench, and steadied it between the two cabinet door pull knobs while resting the bottom on a folded terry cloth towel. I had to be careful not to allow the fork to fall, but it was really not a big deal.

11. Remove fork stem tube cap. BE CAREFUL HERE! Internal parts are under compressed tension, and the fork stem tube cap will come shooting off the top of the fork with extreme violence...and they're NOT KIDDING HERE! This damn set up is dangerous, but not impossible to diffuse. I placed the bottom end of the fork on a folded over towel on the floor, and while supporting the fork with my left hand, I carefully used a 1 3/8" socket with a T-bar handle to remove the cap...and I was prepared for the expected sudden release of all that tension. It's pretty violent, but just take your time and work slowly. Above all, do not - repeat DO NOT - get your face right over the fork when the cap comes off! If you're not prepared for the spring tension, the cap can shoot out of your hand and could put a major hurtin' on your head...be freekin' careful here, okay?

12. Remove the long spring collar. This is what causes the pre-load on the compression spring.

13. Remove the long compression spring and washer. Save the washer....! You'll use it with the new lowering springs!

14. Remove the slider cover (...the little stamped tin decorative ring... ) by inserting a brass drift into the notch on the slider and lightly tapping the cover up.

15. Carefully pry up the dust shield seal from the top of the slider. Be careful not to score the barrel of the fork tube. Any scratches on this surface will eventually damage the oil seal and cause it to leak. Work slowly and carefuly here.

16. Carefully compress the stopper ring and remove it from the groove in the top of the slider bore. Again, do not scratch the fork tube in this area!

17. Withdraw the slider from the fork tube until the bushing guide contacts the bushing on the fork tube. The bushing guide has a slight interference fit in the top of the slider.

18. Using the slider as a 'slide hammer', hit the bushing with the bushing guide with quick continuous strokes until the slider breaks free from the fork tube. This is a 'feel' thing...but, if you look closely, you can see the oil seal move slightly as it's driven from its seat by the slider.

19. When the slider pops free, carefully remove it from the bottom of the fork tube and lay it aside. Check inside it to make sure the thimble size stop oil lock piece remains in the bottom. If not, it may be stuck on the end of the seat pipe, or damper. Don't lose it!

20. Cover the top of the fork tube with your hand, and invert it...the damper, or seat pipe as Harley calls it, will fall into your hand, along with a spring. DO NOT REMOVE THIS ORIGINAL SPRING! Also, take note of the assembly sequence of the parts. If you're careful nothing will fall apart, and you can simply slip the parts back into the fork after the next step.

21. Take one of the small springs from the Progressive Front Spring Lowering kit and slip it on the BOTTOM of the damper, so it rests right against the original factory spring. This causes the slider to ride 'higher' on the fork, and effectively lowers the bike's suspension.

22. Carefully re-insert the damper rod, together with both springs (one original short spring, and one short spring from the lowering kit), into the fork tube. It will fall through and the tapered end of the damper will poke out the bottom of the fork tube.

Okay...next email...we're comin' down the home stretch here.
 
#7 ·
23. Insert the damper rod and fork back down into the slider, until it reaches bottom. Make sure the stop oil lock piece is centered in the bottom of the slider. The stop oil lock piece is a little thimble-looking piece that fits over the tapered end of the seat pipe, or damper, and controls oil flow inside the fork when it's compressed. It's important, so it needs to be there in the right place.

24. Carefully remove the original oil seal, noting the orientation of the small spring and how it all fits on the fork tube. Now, keeping the same orientation, place the new oil seal on the fork tube and press it down into the slider.

25. Place the piece of 2" inside diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe down over the fork until it contacts the new oil seal, and strike the top of the PVC pipe with a mallet (I used a rubber mallet) several times until the oil seal seats itself in the slider. You may have to carefully position the PVC so it fits down into the slider, and doesn't hang up on the top edge. It fits down in the slider just perfectly.

26. Install the stopper ring into the groove around the top of the oil seal in the slider. Again, be careful here and not scratch the fork tube in this area or the oil seal may leak.

27. Re-install the dust shield keeping it's proper orientation. Again, using the 2" PVC pipe, slide it down over the fork tube until it touches the dust shield. Then, strike the top of the PVC pipe with a mallet to seat the dust shield in the top of the slider. Make sure it's driven in until the sholder rests fully against the top of the slider.

28. Rotate the slider cover to match any removal burrs to the notch in the slider and snap the slider cover into place. I used a small fine cut file here to gently remove these burrs very carefully. Also, I used the PVC pipe again to gently hammer the slider cover back into place. It's a snap fit, and it'll seat all the way against the relieved sholder.

29. Move the slider through the full range of travel several times to verify alinement and proper operation. Then, while pulling down on the slider to apply downward force on the rebound springs, install and tighten the seat pipe screw at the bottom of the slider. Don't forget the copper washer, if it fell out (see step #7). You don't have to get it absolutely tight now, but it needs to be pretty snug. You'll be putting fork oil in and you don't want it to leak anymore than necessary. There will be ample chance to tighten it up after the forks are reinstalled in the triple tree.

30. Re-position the fork tube in the FORK TUBEHOLDER (HD-41177) vertically. With the slider tube fully compressed, fill the fork with Harley-Davidson Type E fork oil, part no. HD-99884-80, until it is approximately 85 mm (3.3 inches) from the top of the fork tube.

Okay..this is another place where Progressive differs greatly from the Service Manual. Most of this information is found on Progressive's bulletin board. Several people complained of the forks being too harsh when the Harley procedure was followed. Progressive's web site instructs you to fill the fork tubes to 5.5" from the top of the compressed fork tube. Note that you want the fork tube fully compressed, without the compression spring or pre-load spacer in place before filling the tube with oil.

I made a dip stick from a wire coat hanger to measure 5.5" from the top of the fork tube. A picture is included in this post. If you look closely, you can see the 'Z-hook' on the top end that I hung over the edge of the fork tube. Looking further down the 'dipstick', you'll notice a little mark on the stick...this is measured at exactly 5.5" from the Z-hook bent in the top. I simply used a pair of side cutters to score the surface of the coat hanger wire. It looks crude...hell, maybe it is...but it worked flawlessly. Can't argue with results...

Oh, and obviously, I didn't have the HD fork tube holder, so I just propped the fork tube up against my cabinet again. Maybe I need to patent those damned cabinets...
:laugh:

31. Slowly pump the slider 8 to 10 times to exhaust all the air from the assembly. Fully compress the slider and fork tube each time to determine the oil level. Keep adding oil and checking the level until you get it 5.5" from the top of the fork tube.

Break again...almost done here...
 

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#8 ·
32. Pull out the slider, and insert one of the longer Progressive compression springs in the top of the fork tube with the tightest wound portion of the spring toward the top of the fork.

33. With the fork fully extended, place the original washer (removed way back in step #13) on top of the compression spring. Then place one of the PVC spacers included with the lowering kit in the fork tube, resting it on the washer. This spacer provides the pre-load on the compression spring, and ultimately controls the ride. A longer spacer increases the pre-load, which reduces the spring travel and makes the ride more harsh. A shorter spacer reduces the pre-load, allowing for more spring compression and a softer ride. Also, you could lower the bike more by shortening this spacer even further. Progressive's instructions cover this and suggest making adjustments only 1/4" at a time. I went by their instructions here, and cut my spacers only the minimum amount required (see below).

34. Again taken from Progressive's bulletin board...insure the fork and slider are fully extended, and make a mark on the PVC spacer where it sticks up out of the top of the fork tube. Mine stuck up about 3/8" above the top of the fork tube.

35. Remove the PVC spacer, and using a hack saw, cut off the PVC spacer at the mark. Make as straight a cut as possible...working slowly and carefully. Remove all the sawing debris and de-burr the spacer. Make sure no sawing debris gets down in the spacer or fork tube.

36. Re-install the PVC spacer, and fully extend the fork tube and slider. Check for proper length of the PVC spacer. Make sure it's even with the top of the fork tube with the fork and slider fully extended.

37. Install a new O-ring on the fork stem cap.

38. Make sure the fork tube and slider are fully extended...then install the fork stem cap using the 1 3/8" socket. I used a sliding T-handle again and this worked well for me. I placed the fork on the folded towel on the floor again, and while pressing down on the fork stem cap with the socket and T-bar assembly with my right hand, turned the fork tube with my left hand until the first 2-3 threads took a bite. Be carefull here, too....it's really easy to cross thread the fork stem cap due to the pressure required. It's not the easiest thing I've ever done, but it's far from the hardest...if I can do it, I know you can! Worst part about it is the fork tube keeps trying to retract into the slider.

39. Okay, almost done here...time to re-insert the fork back into the triple tree. You may first want to clean and polish up the fork tube and slider. It's all apart here and easier to do now than when it's back on the bike. I also took a clean rag to the inside of my triple tree clamps to remove any grit or dirt that may have collected there and could scratch the fork tubes upon re-assembly. Re-insert the fork tube back into the triple tree when you're done.

40. Using the measuring device you made back in step #5, measure how far the top of the fork tube sticks out of the top of the triple tree. Carefully align the top of the fork tube seam between the fork stem cap and fork tube with the mark on the measuring tool, and finger tighten the lower pinch bolt. Measure again to make sure it didn't slip, and once you're satisfied, tighten the lower pinch bolt to 31-34 ft lbs. Then tighten the top pinch bolt to match.

41. Check the seat pipe screw you removed in step #7, and re-installed in step #29. Make sure it's tightened firmly...but don't strip it. The Service Manual says 106-159 in lbs...which seems like a pretty big margin of error to me, but it just shows this is not a critical torque setting. You just don't want it to leak fork oil from here.

42. Now, repeat steps #6 through #41 for the other fork. HA! Sounds almost too easy, huh? :laugh:

43. Re-install front fender and bracket. Again, be careful here as the paint will scratch very easily!

44. Install the front wheel and align the wheel to the forks. All procedures covered in the Service Manual...easy to do, just follow along.

45. Re-install the front calipers. NOTE...squeeze the front brake handle several times following re-installation of the front calipers to reseat the brake pads. Failure to do so could cause severe loss of braking when brakes are applied for the first time following reassembly! Make sure you squeeze this brake handle several times...!

46. Adjust the fall-away. Again, procedures from the Service Manual.

47. After making one last check on all the bolts to insure everything's snugged up tight and ready, remove bike from jack or stand.

48. Step back and enjoy...looks good ...Huh? :thumb:
 
#9 ·
Okay...there it is. I read and re-read this How To and I don't think I left anything out. It sounds complicated, but it's really not...just a lot of steps involved that need to be worked through.

What I'd like to ask is that someone else read it who's installed the same Progressive lowering springs, and check my work for accuracy. If you find something wrong, please PM me and I'll make the changes. Please try and refrain from posting to this thread so others may use the procedure without wading through a lot of other posts...THANKS! Once we think it's okay, I'll ask Val to move it to the permanent How To area of the forum.

Oh...and Motorhed...it's 2 inch INSIDE diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe.
 
#11 ·
Hey...Thanks! I hope the article helps someone else out. Like I said...all the information was available, but scattered all over here and there. I just pulled it all together. Thanks for moving it to the Read Only area...

Next up: How To for installing Smooth Ride rear shocks...
 
#12 ·
most excellent how-to. Hope to be using the procedures soon. Just skimming, though, one question comes to mind regarding adjusting the fall-away. Wasn't there some discussion on this forum regarding steering head nut torque to eliminate "klunk" that so many have experienced? Have you had any problem in this regard?
 
#13 ·
Naw...can't say as I have. There's some clunk when I hit a pothole or one of the rougher manhole cover dips, but it's not too severe or harsh. I plan on rechecking the fall away this weekend. Truth be known, I didn't really have time to check it properly, nor re-torque the steering head nut. It was late, I was tired...needed a cold one...etc. etc. etc. Bottom line is I need to re-read the procedure and make sure I'm satisfied with it. But...I rode the bike the other afternoon when I got home from work, and I didn't notice any particular problem.

But...even before installing the lowering kit, I didn't detect a klunk that I considered out of the ordinary.

...and Thanks for the compliment. Like I said, I hope it helps someone out. I know I had some apprehensions when I went into the process, mainly because there were so many sources of information, in so many diffferent places.
 
#14 ·
:thumb: flyin freddie,
Thanks for the post, I'm in the middle of this project right now. Already removed forks from trees. but will use your other tips for the install. Did you trim the pvc spacer from the progressive kit? It was in another post(vrodtodd). Thanks to everyone who takes the time to help out others!
flyin freddie, vrodtodd
vrodrick74, sam a
curlysir, kennendy, danno, ect. and anybody i missed V-rodders are the best!!
 
#15 ·
Yes sir...see step #35. The information about the oil level and trimming the PVC spacer is NOT...repeat IS NOT ...included in the instruction sheet that comes with the lowering kit. But, it is located on Progressive's website on their bulletin board. Unfortunately, their bulletin board is not something most folks would go and check before buying or trying to install their springs. I'm a little dissappointed in Progressive for not communicating this information more widely, either on their website, or with inserted instructions in the box. Buried down in message threads on some website is not a very good effort to communicate with your customers...at least in my opinion, anyway.

Again...my instructions were written becuase I had the exact same problem most have had finding this information. It's all out there, but in a helluva lot of different places, and not the easiest to find. Hat's off to the members of this forum, as repeated reviews of the discussions on the forum, and chasing down the veiled references in those posts led me to the correct information.
 
#16 ·
Is there any reason that I could not pretty much follow this map to replace the front sliders on my Heritage. I have purchsed chrome units. I do have the 03 Heritage Softail Service Manual but your instructions are far more comprehensive. Also was concerned regarding special HD tools such as spring compressor and seal installer. Seems you were able to accomplish without these tools. I recently changed out the paint set(fenders and gas tank--the hardest part was fishing the fuel pump and filter configuration from original tank and placing in the new tank) so think that I can handle this job.
 

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#17 ·
Gee...dunno about Heritage...

Sxrxrnr...I can't say for sure whether or not the instructions would work on a Heritage...but, I would bet the same sequence could be followed, maybe with a few changes. I'm thinkin' Harley wouldn't make many changes from one fork & triple tree set up to another...unless it was a Springer, of course.

Hell...give it a shot. I'm thinkin' any differences would be fairly obvious to most folks with above average mechanical skills. Sounds like you would have little, if any, problems. I wouldn't hesitate to give it a shot...

Let us know how it turns out...!
 
#18 ·
Flyin: I noted that you have a heel shifter on your Vrod. I too installed one on mine and felt that was the biggest improvement I'd made to it. Wonder why HD never thought of it, in fact they've never even offered as an overpriced accessory. Thanks for your write up on sliders. Makes more sense then the manual.
 
#19 ·
Heel-n-toe shifter...

Y'know...'sfunny....you're the second person that's mentioned my heel-n-toe shifter, the other guy being ABQNMVROD. Both with positive comments.

But...I was casually talking with the manager of one of the local Dealership's stores several weeks ago. When I mentioned my heel-n-toe shifter, she hollered out loud to one of her employees..."Hey, So-and-so, this guy's got a heel-n-toe shifter on a V-Rod...!" like it was some kind of sacreligious, heathen monstrosity.

Truth be known, I think she was just pissed because 1) Harely doesn't make one for the V-Rod, and 2) since Harely didn't make it, she couldn't sell it, and 3) since she couldn't sell it she didn't make any money.

When we walked back to my 'rod sitting in the service write-up bay, every Tech in the shop was standing around my lowered, phat-tired, chromed out V-Rod checking it out. They all remarked they had never seen a V-Rod tricked out like mine and that it was one of the sharpest looking ones they had ever seen, I think much to their manager's dismay. And, although there are many Harley Davidson chrome pieces installed on my bike...most of the money I spent on my bike went to someone other than her shop...and I did it all myself...and she realized it.

I still don't understand her remarks to "So-and-so" regarding the heel-n-toe shifter. Like you, I like the way it shifts, and I like not having the left toe of my boots and shoes all dorked up from pulling up on the shifter all the time.
 
#21 ·
I too like that heel shifting does not screw up my spit shine(sure, right on my cycle boot), but I had a more pragmatic reason. In earlier more reckless days I had injured my left foot a couple of times and have somewhat lessened strength in doing an uplift of the foot. So the heel shifter is perfect for me in fact even with a perfect left foot, I suspect that I would still prefer heel shifting as I think it is quicker and more positive(imho). Now if I could figure out how to do it on my sport bike, life would be good. Have been looking at rear sets that permit one to do an upshift by pushing down and downshifts by lifting up. Could get you in serious trouble however if you are at 9 grand in 2nd gear and lift up to go to third and end up going into first(I've even managed to do that with conventional shifters). Anyone know a good machinist that could build a heel shifter kit for a Honda sport bike? I suspect there could be a market for it.

I've enclosed a picture of the 1000RR shift mechanism for those who are fabrication inclined and also a picture of the Vrod heel shifter.

On the Vrod, please note that you do not want to use the normal rubber coated shift post. It will interfere with your foot and is very awkward. I devised a very stubby post using an allen bolt and a chrome cap. Works perfectly and is out of the way. In fact heel shifting works perfectly without even placing anything in the rear hole, the chrome cap is more for appearance sake.
 

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#22 ·
Sure thing...stand by, Greg...I'll post one tonight. I'm playing FedEx just now...:hmm:
 
#23 ·
Okay...just snapped this...

Here's a close up of my heel-n-toe shifter. I bought it from a vendor on Ebay. He makes them in his shop and does an excellent job...his welds are all ground and polished, and the finish is excellent. The guy I bought it from is Robert D. Rudd...his email address is bobvic2@aol.com. He's in Michigan...I have his home address, but I'd rather not publish it here. If you would like to contact him, I would use his email address. The price was $125 US in January of this year.

Hope this helps someone out... I really like it!
 

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#25 ·
Okay guys...got a question.

I pulled the sliders off, removed the spring, drained the oil, and knocked off the slider decorative cap.

I am now faced with a rubber piece that has a circular retainer that looks like a spring wrapped around it. I slid the retainer off, and tried to pull the slider apart. No luck. I am thinking that I still have the dust shield to remove. Before I go any further, do any of you have any advice? Is it the dust shield that I have to work off now?

thanks
 
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