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Old 10-25-2012, 01:06 PM   #1
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Wiring a Progressive controller into a BOSS NOSS system

Well since I will have a BOSS NOSS system on its way to my door step soon the next item to order is a NOS Progressive controller. Nitrous systems are nothing new to me. BOSS NOSS system is new to me. Since the system uses a smart box instead of a stand alone Nitrous/Fuel Solenoids I wouldn't know were to wire the controller into. Fabster is using a progressive controller but since he didn't do the install he is no damn help J/K Fab and trying to contact BOSS NOSS is a crap shoot. Thanks in advance for the help
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:26 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by vrunner79 View Post
Well since I will have a BOSS NOSS system on its way to my door step soon the next item to order is a NOS Progressive controller. Nitrous systems are nothing new to me. BOSS NOSS system is new to me. Since the system uses a smart box instead of a stand alone Nitrous/Fuel Solenoids I wouldn't know were to wire the controller into. Fabster is using a progressive controller but since he didn't do the install he is no damn help J/K Fab and trying to contact BOSS NOSS is a crap shoot. Thanks in advance for the help
Before I decided to go VFRI III, I was going to go this route. Based on my research, you would have the progressive controller manage an automotive relay that controlled the power feeding to the smart box.

I'll be working on my system this winter, and plan to have the NOS output on the VRFI feed the relay as the progressive controller would have.
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:41 AM   #3
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Fabster is using a progressive controller but since he didn't do the install he is no damn help
I know the extent of my capabilities and got tired of asking everywhere how to wire the thing so I decided to take it to someone who actually knew what he was doing


I can help you with bottle bracket ideas though...

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Old 10-26-2012, 12:00 PM   #4
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Nahh. I don't think i'll trust my bottle to Zip ties I figure there must me a N2O solenoind inside the smart box but I don't know how a Progressive controller would affect the fuel smart box. i'm gonna keep trying to contact BOSS NOSS
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Old 10-26-2012, 01:34 PM   #5
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I don't know about anyone else trying to contact BOSS NOSS through Phone & Email but its like the odds of winning the Lottery took almost a month trying to get them on the phone before I bought a used system from a member on here Are there any reps on here from BOSS that can help me with something that should be a small issue? I want to do the full install myself so I don't have to pay someone else to do it. i'm good with wiring once I know were connections need to go. I would think B/N would make wiring available to people that want to use a Nitrous controller. Personally I don't see any reason not to use a controller
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:11 PM   #6
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Fabster--on your old B-N setup, did you have to hit the horn button to have the NOS fire, or did you just switch it on and then let the progressive controller handle the window?

I see a couple different ways to wire in the controller, and that piece of info will tell me which one your installer used.

I'll try to dig mine out this weekend and do a schematic. Aside from me pulling the 'go' wire from the VRFI instead of a progressive controller, the rest should be about the same.
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'04 VSRCA
1300 'Baby Destroyer' Stroker
SE Heads, Jones Cams/Valves/Springs
Destroyer TB and Injectors
CP Pistons
Bub 7 2-1
Delphi/SERT, sometimes TSII for tuning
Lots of other bits and pieces
Coming someday (if I ever get around to plumbing it):
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:33 PM   #7
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NOS makes a nice Mini controller, its got 2 safety triggers a TPS switch and RPM switch. I think then I can remove the Thumb switch and let the Progressive controller handle the system. Arm the system and let the electronics handle the rest instead of fumbling for a button on the fly. Looking forward to what you find. Heres the link to the P/C if this is the same one your using
http://www.mpsracing.com/Instructions/NOS/15974NOS.pdf
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:16 PM   #8
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Indeed no horn button, you turn on the arming switch and the prog controller takes charge of everything depending on your settings. In my case I have it activated by a microswitch which is pressed by the throttle arm when it's all the way at WOT (open throttle). It's also controlled simultaneously by an RPM window (5K-9,500 in my case), so both conditions must be met:

1) bike at full throttle and WOT microswitch activated and
2) desired initial RPM reached

The upper limit of the RPM window shuts off the spraying to avoid a lean condition if you hit the rev limiter, which in my case is set at 10K. Hitting the rev limiter can be easier than one think.... if you miss a shift or go crazy and try to hit 6th gear for example LOL! so that's why the controller is so important.

I think the MSwitch is better over the TPS (throttle position sensor) since it's a "mechanical" activation rather than an "electronical" one like the TPS. Hence if the ECM goes nuts for whatever reason maybe it hits the RPM activation setting BUT if the MSwitch is not activated then there's no spray. On the other hand, if the ECM goes crazy and sends the controller both activating RPM readings AND TPS signal as being at WOT (both electronic signals), the controller will trigger the spray, independent of the REAL conditions the motor is in... Hope you can get a hold of what I'm trying to explain. BTW vrunner that's the same controller in the link you provided, same link I emailed you earlier today.

Anyways here is my original thread, I sent Sean some pics at one time but I can't find the email, I can get pics of the switch tomorrow since it's set the same way. Apparently we are alone in this adventure so we need to rely on eachbother for help, as opposed tonour "plenum friends"....

http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthr...bster+findings
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:29 PM   #9
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I agree with FAB that there is a "physical" switch that has to be active then a Electronic switch when the Spray comes on. Also hitting the limiter on spray is a big NO NO , too many things to list that can go wrong that way.. Fabster I would like to see how your Micro switch is mounted to the side of your TB. lets help each other for someone else in the future that has the same issue. N2O is safer then most people think IF its used correctly
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:10 PM   #10
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N2O is safer then most people think IF its used correctly
Just like any other power adder, but at least in this forum it has proven safer and more reliable than the others..and you still have cash left in case "something" happens...
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Old 10-27-2012, 03:28 PM   #11
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Based on Fab's info, I should be able to build a schematic. I'll try to throw something together this weekend.
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Sean Burke--Delaware OH
'04 VSRCA
1300 'Baby Destroyer' Stroker
SE Heads, Jones Cams/Valves/Springs
Destroyer TB and Injectors
CP Pistons
Bub 7 2-1
Delphi/SERT, sometimes TSII for tuning
Lots of other bits and pieces
Coming someday (if I ever get around to plumbing it):
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Old 10-27-2012, 03:55 PM   #12
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:55 PM   #13
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There ya go, I'll try to get better ones if possible...
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:48 AM   #14
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:36 AM   #15
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There ya go, I'll try to get better ones if possible...
Here you can see how the switch is mounted on a bracket bolted to the head and twisted in order to get clearance and the theottle arm to reach it

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