Originally Posted by mike_w
Found it and picked up both CP50 and Salt Away. Will be using both this week.
Mike, if you have any questions, let me know. BTW, I treat everythign on the bike that is made out of metal.
One other suggestion is to use one of those high speed blowers to blow all the water off the bike after washing. That helps eliminate water build up in the lower part of the rear shocks, inside the V of the engine ( Iusually straddle the bike and hold it against my right leg and lean it as far as possible, that helps the water that ponds there to fall away from the bike by the pull of gravity.
SOme folks have complained about sticky ignition switches. The manual says not to lube the lock area. I found by dressing th eend of the key with Rust COP/CP-90 and then insereting the key into the lock (do this a few times to be sure to get the tumblers lubed up) the lock will not stick.
One friend with a 03 had to replace his ignition switch because it was so bad, so if yoru lock is messed up this may or may not work. I might have caught mine early and have not had issues with it since being treated
I have to repeat about your brake system, be very careful with this after clean up and the first few miles, avoid power stops the best you possibly can.
Originally Posted by rc4man
Spent a few days in the Outer Banks in July and when I got home the bike was a mess. Had a real job to get it in shape again. Some corrosion inhibitor would have been the ticket.
Thanks Rich, I'll be looking for this stuff.
Let me know if you have any problems finding and purchasing the products.
Afte rriding my bike on th eNorth Shore of oahu I used to freak out about all the salt and think the last thing I want to do when i get home is have to clean the bike. WIth the use of these products I slowly realized I could go 2, 3 and even 4 weeks with very little issues of corrosion.
The most problematic parts for corrosion with this CPAC system is the trun signal fastening assembly, the washer that acts like a spacer with the mirrors and also the handlebar controls, along
the edges had started coming apart from wind erosion and chemical contaminants.
We've discovered that galvanizing has a terrible problem due to mosit tropical winds and if that same though is held for aluminum that has been coated, the same can be true here.
If any road debris dings the coating and exposes the aluminum
the aluminum does protect itself with a molecular build up of aluminum oxides you cannot see. When one considers that aluminum that is used for aircraft is treated in a chromic acid bath, which causes the aluminum to oxide more, that micro oxidation at the surface allows the aircraft skin to battle corrosion for many years.
THe point here is on motor cycles, this is not done, so the only oxidation is what the aluminum produces on it's own and not with the use of etching compounds. Becuase of this, the corrosion attack becomes highly localized and at the point of metal exposure. Pitting develops rapidly as the aluminum under th ecoating cannot passivate properly so undercutting starts and that is those bubbles you see under the coating if you have this issue going on.
We do have primers that are water base that are used for etching compound for aluminum, stainless and galvanizing, no where near as hazardous as the chromic acid where one would have to suit up, wear respirators and gloves and when finished dispose of what was used in HAZMAT disposal which is very expensive.
If one were tp do this unprotected chances are you'd have a bizzare mind trip before you fall over foaming at the mouth...the acid is really nasty stuff.
The water based primer contains corrosion inhibitors, goes on clear and is a micro coat. The product is barely indistinguishable from a non coated surface. WIth the prime coat down, a secondary water based clear coat can be laid. While allowing each coat to dry, the third coat would be the factory original color if you not running the aluminum polished out.
WHile polished aluminum will be protected by CP-90, the white oxides of aluminum which are actually pits that have accelerated with corrosion may occur. If you are seeing darkening of polished aluminum, that is actually pits that have formed. This can be relieved with the use of 1000 grit wet paper, and then to bring
the lustre back use of DuPont orange # 2, followed by DuPont white # 2. Both of these fine products can be diluted with fresh water and work amazingly well to bring up the lustre and as well, aid in protecting the finish at hand.
I usually follow up with Bombs Away for a good long lasting finish that gets anywhere from a low of 4 months, typically in a hurry doing the work.
Or up to a year doing the work with power tools and have wheels of the bike on an elevated platform to polish the heck out of the magnesium rims.
We can do rims and other aluminum parts with the coatings as the fisnih is gloss clear, but have found out that is oil based cleaning compounds such as Gunk are used, Gunk will emulsify the coatings and that means the coating would have to be removed and then reapplied.
Regarding ACF50 as it is is designed for aluminum I cannot verify what it does for magnesium or how long it lasts.
All I know is when treating with Rust COP, then cleaned and the surface is polished as with the rims you've got a good sound system for protecting the rims for many months.
Then using Salt Away to wash, that will keep any salts from allowing water to accumulate as with salt, this accumulation of water is the first step for the start of corrosion, followed on by the salt fast tracking electrons over th esurface and then allowing deposition of oxides on the back of the salt.
I have heard many people say they won't ride roads where salt is used to melt snow. The white powder seen on the black top or concrete typically is salt if you live in areas where this practice is done.
This is where Salt Away works well for removing and cleaning the bike, car or whatever was used to drive over the roads that may be dry in some spots, wet in others, where the salt spray gets carried up onto the machine.