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Old 01-30-2012, 01:33 AM   #1
GRD
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Clutch and brake reservoir caps

Just pulled off my clutch and brake reservoir caps because the finish, powdercoat I guess, is blistering, particularly the cluch.
I'm planning on haveing them re-powdercoated,

Found a few thing that that I don't understand.

I thought the fluid was blistering the finish, but the brake cap is coated underneath and there is no sign of blistering there.
Is powdercoating OK ?
Is it something else causing the blistering.

The clutch cap is uncoated underneath.
Any reason why they are different or just different suppliers?

Also the clutch fluid looks so dirty that you cannot see the bottom of the reservoir.
Is it possible the actual fluid is different?
Is this normal?

The bike has only 6000 miles, had 3000 on the clock when I bought it, I assumed the fluids are original, and I was planning on changing them out when I refit the caps.
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Old 01-30-2012, 07:29 AM   #2
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You didn't specify model year but from the cast in logo in the bottom of the brake reservoir you have the Brembo brakes.
You've got DOT 4 fluid which could be the cause but I can't answer why you're not getting peeling else where.
You're correct that the lids and reservoirs are powder coated.
My clutch fluid gets dirty quicker than the brake, I assume it gets greater usage, every time you shift up or down rather than just when you brake.
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Old 01-30-2012, 11:46 AM   #3
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My clutch MC is the same (putting on new one this week) I found apart from the paint peeling from contamination from the fluid,it was lifting everywhere and when you scrape away the paint there is white powdery deposits underneath,this is the same problem I had on my triple trees (now have Rizoma) I think it is something do do with electrolysis or something similiar.
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:44 PM   #4
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The bike is an '06 R and there is a white deposit under the peeling coating and by the sounds of it the dirty fluid might be normal. Thanks for the replys.

Since finding this I've been thinking about what's going on.

Since the clutch lid is only powdercoated on the top it looks as if some sort of corosion, electrolysis has started on the underside on the uncoated aluminium and is working its way up under the powdercoat.

Thinking now of haveing both lids powdercoated on both sides.
Anyone see any reason this wouldn't be OK for the clutch lid?
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:07 PM   #5
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My covers did the same thing so i switched them to chrome covers. I seem to remember this being a common problem with the stock black covers.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:23 PM   #6
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My covers did the same thing so i switched them to chrome covers. I seem to remember this being a common problem with the stock black covers.
Yup.
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Old 01-30-2012, 10:08 PM   #7
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I Got the same thing on the underside of my 2011 Muscle. Moisture and Brake fluid combination on the cheap pot metal caps cause the white powder effect on the inside of the cap.
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:23 AM   #8
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The brakes systems on Harleys have always been inferior.This is the case with them today.Be prepared to change master cylinders often on late models because of the ill designed covers leaking fluid causing the finish to peel.
I'm getting another set on my X.27,000 miles and the fourth set .
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:28 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRD View Post
The bike is an '06 R and there is a white deposit under the peeling coating and by the sounds of it the dirty fluid might be normal. Thanks for the replys.

Since finding this I've been thinking about what's going on.

Since the clutch lid is only powdercoated on the top it looks as if some sort of corosion, electrolysis has started on the underside on the uncoated aluminium and is working its way up under the powdercoat.

Thinking now of haveing both lids powdercoated on both sides.
Anyone see any reason this wouldn't be OK for the clutch lid?
I can't think why this wouldn't work. Worth a try. I would make sure that it's stripped well and all current corrosion is gone.
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElrodontheV-Rod View Post
The brakes systems on Harleys have always been inferior.This is the case with them today.Be prepared to change master cylinders often on late models because of the ill designed covers leaking fluid causing the finish to peel.
I'm getting another set on my X.27,000 miles and the fourth set .
This is not the case at all. The problem is over servicing the reservoirs and over tightening the two screws that retain the lid.
When filling each reservoir, move the handlebars to get the reservoir as close to level as your bike permits. Inside each reservoir is a maximum fill line. Do not put more fluid in than that line or the reservoir will leak.
When you screw down the lid, do not over tighten the screws. Tighten each screw just until you feel resistance, then tighten them 1/8 to 1/4 turn more and stop. If the edge of the seal between the reservoir and the cap bulges you have tightened the screws too much. Over filling and over tightening is the cause of these problems. None of my V-Rods have peeled poweder coat on the reservoirs.
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:03 AM   #11
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OK, then they are coming from the factory or dealerships overtightened. I never touched either of my covers (screws) until they started to peel....
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Old 01-31-2012, 10:21 AM   #12
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OK, then they are coming from the factory or dealerships overtightened. I never touched either of my covers (screws) until they started to peel....

Mine have been untouched since being replaced by a dealer under warranty. I'm just gonna clean 'em well and repaint with black epoxy.
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Old 01-31-2012, 12:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philthy View Post
This is not the case at all. The problem is over servicing the reservoirs and over tightening the two screws that retain the lid.
When filling each reservoir, move the handlebars to get the reservoir as close to level as your bike permits. Inside each reservoir is a maximum fill line. Do not put more fluid in than that line or the reservoir will leak.
When you screw down the lid, do not over tighten the screws. Tighten each screw just until you feel resistance, then tighten them 1/8 to 1/4 turn more and stop. If the edge of the seal between the reservoir and the cap bulges you have tightened the screws too much. Over filling and over tightening is the cause of these problems. None of my V-Rods have peeled poweder coat on the reservoirs.

Well,then you are special.Just like the Mopar fwd owner that was able to make it 50k miles on a transmission.
The 07 masters were very ill designed.The fluid would tear out of the sight glass when I was riding.As did the 07 replacements.The lids leak on them all,except yours.The lids need a groove machined to hold the seal.The cup seals wear down.The 09 F masters I run on my X are garbage too.I have never owned a Harley that had a proper working rear brake.The rear brake on my X model has worked about 3000 of 27,000 miles.I'm tired of bleeding it every week so i just don't and I just don't ever try and use it.
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Old 01-31-2012, 12:24 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Dancing Dogs View Post
OK, then they are coming from the factory or dealerships overtightened. I never touched either of my covers (screws) until they started to peel....
I don't know what is on the delivery prep check list, but I would suspect that inspecting the fluid levels is part of it. We all know some of the dealer techs aren't the sharpest tools in the shed, and don't shops of all brands often put the least experienced tech on new bike prep? Just sayin' ............

Be very detailed when replacing the caps. Reservoir not overfilled, no residual fluid on either the rubber seal or on the lip of the reservoir, everything clean and dry before you put the seal and cap back on, then tighten the screws as I described earlier.
I had to learn all of this the hard way many years ago with an old Sportster. Dot 5 didn't peel the paint, but it still made a mess until I learned not to over fill or over tighten. I don't find this any more objectionable than how many clear plastic reservoirs age and crack, then leak.
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:47 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rc4man View Post
I can't think why this wouldn't work. Worth a try. I would make sure that it's stripped well and all current corrosion is gone.
I'm heading in that direction too. Thinking of powder coating the caps in and out. I've taken a piece of metal (5" long) that's been powder coated in Satin black, and placed it in a jar half filled with Dot 4. Three days so far, and no peeling or bubbling signs of the finish. I'm going to leave it for a couple of days longer, then I'm going to let it sit out in the sun for a couple to see what happens.

I have also done what Philthy has suggested twice, with new caps and gaskets, with no success.
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