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Old 06-20-2011, 06:35 PM   #1
Bob1320
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V-Rod Cam Timing Specifications

Does anyone know the stock cam timing specs for the 1130 engine? I'm thinking of going from the 28 tooth sprocket to a 30 tooth (or 31) and then lowering the torque curve via cam timing. My Night Rod runs more like a sport bike than a cruiser. I'm perfectly willing to sacrifice top end horsepower to compensate for the too tall gear ratio in first gear. Around here, on I-95, you have to run at 5000 RPM to keep from getting run over and fuel prices are through the roof!
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Old 06-20-2011, 08:38 PM   #2
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The sprocket won't make much of a difference at all.The Revo is an RPM monster,it loves them and needs the high rpms to perform properly.
I have both the 30th and a 28th V-Rods.They both average the same 35 mpg.
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:19 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ElrodontheV-Rod View Post
The sprocket won't make much of a difference at all.The Revo is an RPM monster,it loves them and needs the high rpms to perform properly.
I have both the 30th and a 28th V-Rods.They both average the same 35 mpg.
This is only true with the original camshafts. The lobe duration, lift, and opening/closing events dictate whether it's an RPM monster or not. The cams are the heart of the monster!

I want to change the sprocket AND the cam timing to tame the monster into a milder, more economical, and practical machine.

I know someone is going to ask why I just don't ride my Fatboy. Well, I like the V-rod for it's looks, it's handling, and the modern technology. But, I'm not interested in drag racing the thing. I have race cars for that purpose. My bikes are just for cruising pleasure. The Fatboy has classic looks, but it vibrates and sounds like an old sewing machine. I guess I've have too much time on my hands.
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Old 06-20-2011, 10:34 PM   #4
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you MIGHT get some torque gains by sleeving the stacks down.increase the air speed flow at lower revs but will be at the expense of hp.then remap to suit.
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:53 PM   #5
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you MIGHT get some torque gains by sleeving the stacks down.increase the air speed flow at lower revs but will be at the expense of hp.then remap to suit.
That's a good point because the motor appears to have way more intake area then necessary for the size of the cylinder. One could probably spin this motor to 11,000 RPM easily. I think the biggest factor is the camshaft duration. I think that it should be no more than 230 degrees at 1mm. It would be much more docile yet still high performance.

I don't know if the intake and exhaust cams are interchangeable or not. If they are simply using exhaust cams on both intake and exhaust would bring the duration close. The cam gears can be slotted or re-drilled to achieve the correct timing numbers.

Advancing the intake cams so that the intake valves close sooner should help even more. I'd like to reduce the RPM about 1,000 at 80 mph to about 3800 to 4000. That would be wonderful.
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Old 06-21-2011, 01:12 AM   #6
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Just get the stacks from a HDI model (they are choked down) and advance the intake cams
4 degrees and a 31 tooth front pulley and a good remap
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Old 06-21-2011, 06:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob1320 View Post
This is only true with the original camshafts. The lobe duration, lift, and opening/closing events dictate whether it's an RPM monster or not. The cams are the heart of the monster!

I want to change the sprocket AND the cam timing to tame the monster into a milder, more economical, and practical machine.

I know someone is going to ask why I just don't ride my Fatboy. Well, I like the V-rod for it's looks, it's handling, and the modern technology. But, I'm not interested in drag racing the thing. I have race cars for that purpose. My bikes are just for cruising pleasure. The Fatboy has classic looks, but it vibrates and sounds like an old sewing machine. I guess I've have too much time on my hands.
If your FatBoy vibrates,you have something terrible wrong with it.My Heritage was smoother than both of my V-Rod engines.I ran Longshots on it and it got 40mpg.It also had a different set of cams than the 1HD1 bikes.I had to change the cams in it from the 5HD5 cams and it destroyed the comfortable cruising performance.At low speeds I found myself hunting between 4th and 5th gears because of the international differences of the cams and the sprocket ratios.I hated the engine performance after the cam change,but there was minimum factory choice because of the new cam plate that has no bearings in it.This was also one of my deciding points for getting rid of the bike.That and the other internal bearing failures.
The cams do interchange between the intake and exhaust in the Revo.Just keep in mind whatever you change up top,you will need to compensate on the sprocket ratio's so the engine can breath,or not lug.Changing the profile of the cams to a lower lift and and quicker time will turn the engine into a slug and it will most likely loose fuel economy,if that's even a word to use in an engine like the Revo.The pistons and cylinder head combustion chamber should be changed too.A set or 8-1 dish pistons would allow lower octane to burn.I think the temps are ok for the lower octane.
If you don't want a drag racing type motorcycle,you need to find one other than a V-Rod,because the V-Rod is a drag racing inspired vehicle.If you aren't getting at least 35mpg from your Revo,there is something wrong with it.Like I say,I average 35mpg out of mine with modded mufflers,K&N filter and a tune for max hp at every rpm range.I am lucky enough to live in an area where I can run mine for their intended purpose too.If I had to ride in shitty traffic conditions like some have to,I would probably get 3 or more mpg.

When you say gas prices are sky high,do you mean they are higher than the rest of the country,or you just havn't got used to paying $3.39 a gallon yet?
Keep your eyes peeled,gasoline will be on the rise again next year.The world says we need to pay $5 a gallon,so the price will be $5 a gallon,but not before we see $5.50.
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:11 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hal64hd View Post
Just get the stacks from a HDI model (they are choked down) and advance the intake cams
4 degrees and a 31 tooth front pulley and a good remap
That sounds like a good plan.
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElrodontheV-Rod View Post
If your FatBoy vibrates,you have something terrible wrong with it.My Heritage was smoother than both of my V-Rod engines.I ran Longshots on it and it got 40mpg.It also had a different set of cams than the 1HD1 bikes.I had to change the cams in it from the 5HD5 cams and it destroyed the comfortable cruising performance.At low speeds I found myself hunting between 4th and 5th gears because of the international differences of the cams and the sprocket ratios.I hated the engine performance after the cam change,but there was minimum factory choice because of the new cam plate that has no bearings in it.This was also one of my deciding points for getting rid of the bike.That and the other internal bearing failures.
The cams do interchange between the intake and exhaust in the Revo.Just keep in mind whatever you change up top,you will need to compensate on the sprocket ratio's so the engine can breath,or not lug.Changing the profile of the cams to a lower lift and and quicker time will turn the engine into a slug and it will most likely loose fuel economy,if that's even a word to use in an engine like the Revo.The pistons and cylinder head combustion chamber should be changed too.A set or 8-1 dish pistons would allow lower octane to burn.I think the temps are ok for the lower octane.
If you don't want a drag racing type motorcycle,you need to find one other than a V-Rod,because the V-Rod is a drag racing inspired vehicle.If you aren't getting at least 35mpg from your Revo,there is something wrong with it.Like I say,I average 35mpg out of mine with modded mufflers,K&N filter and a tune for max hp at every rpm range.I am lucky enough to live in an area where I can run mine for their intended purpose too.If I had to ride in shitty traffic conditions like some have to,I would probably get 3 or more mpg.

When you say gas prices are sky high,do you mean they are higher than the rest of the country,or you just havn't got used to paying $3.39 a gallon yet?
Keep your eyes peeled,gasoline will be on the rise again next year.The world says we need to pay $5 a gallon,so the price will be $5 a gallon,but not before we see $5.50.
We've been paying well over $4.00 a gallon for some time now.

The Harley twin cam "B" (counter balanced) motors are solid mounted to the frame. They all buzz at anything over 3000 RPM. That's isn't my opinion, it's a fact. The V-rod are counter balanced and rubber mounted and are as smooth as glass. Something must be terribly wrong with your Revo motor!

According to Harley Davidson, the V-rod was designed as a "cruiser". Apparently, they failed at that endeavor. I'm just going to make it closer to what it was supposed to be. A 660 pound machine getting 35 mpg is an absolute joke. With all that technology it should be able to get 50 mpg and still run high 11's in the quarter mile.
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:50 AM   #10
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http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148694 post 13 has the stock cam spec's.
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:45 AM   #11
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Thanks Dale! That is exactly what I needed.
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Old 06-21-2011, 03:44 PM   #12
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You could machine the mounting boss for the compression releases off of the exhaust cams and use them for intakes.
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Old 06-21-2011, 04:27 PM   #13
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You could machine the mounting boss for the compression releases off of the exhaust cams and use them for intakes.
That's what I was thinking of doing. The difference in lift between the intake and exhaust cams is almost negligible considering the total area of the two intake valves for this size cylinder. It would run a lot smoother under 3000 RPM with the decreased duration and take off a lot easier with the lower torque curve.
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:39 AM   #14
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The difference in idle from my 03 1130 and my 07 1250 is day and night.
You can run the 07X or any 08 and newer 1250 exhaust cams without any machining because the comp releases have been eliminated.
You should be able to find a set of late 1250 exhaust cams pretty easy.

My TC88 did run smoother than my Revo's simply from the cam profile differences.That thing was unbelievably smooth until I installed the TC96 cams.
Attached Files
File Type: avi exhaust idle differences 002.AVI (1.29 MB, 27 views)
File Type: avi exhaust idle differences 005.AVI (1.30 MB, 22 views)
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
You can run the 07X or any 08 and newer 1250 exhaust cams without any machining because the comp releases have been eliminated.
You should be able to find a set of late 1250 exhaust cams pretty easy.
Doesn't the boss still protrude from the back of the exhaust cam even though the compression releases are gone ?
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