Muffler Cement to Stop Exhaust Leak - Apparently It Doesn't Work! - 1130cc.com: The #1 Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum
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Old 07-19-2009, 06:26 PM   #1
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Muffler Cement to Stop Exhaust Leak - Apparently It Doesn't Work!

So this summer I've pretty much had my CFR exhaust off the bike every week trying to stop the damn thing from popping. It basically consists of me sanding down the end of the pipes, cleaning it up with rubbing alcohol, then applying some red RTV. It seems to work for a bit before the popping comes back.

I found that the header pipe was leaking a bit so I replaced the gasket there as well. Well, I visited a muffler shop to find out if they can enlarge the diameter of the header pipe so I can get a tighter fit (I know that a member here did that) but they didn't want to take the chance of making it too large as then I'd be F-ed). They recommended a product called "muffler cement" which I bought a tube of. This stuff hardens once dry.

Well, I applied it to the bike and pipe and it seems to do the trick but for some reason after a short ride it starts to push the pipe back off the header pipe. I tried it twice and the second time I made sure I clamped down hard on it but again, after a 25 minute leisurely ride you can see the pipe starting to back off in this pic. When I started riding the CFR and the header pipe sat flush with no gap.



The cement has cracked where the pipe has backed off. I just can't figure out what is pushing the pipe back off the header? If it was mounted to the bike near the back I'm sure that it would work it's way off the pipe completely after a bit of riding.

Any advice?
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Old 07-19-2009, 09:39 PM   #2
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I am glad I swapped out to a RH. I notice too that mine even with the new clamp when I had it on was working its way off too. Could it be the mounting setup in the rear? I know it's not a real "solid" braced mount. Just an idea. I mean the mount for the RH is much more solid. For example, I could wiggle the CFR, the RH is rock solid. Maybe a better mounting bracket? Might help?

From what I understand as well, the figure 8 clamp as they say is "one and done." which if that is true, provides to be expensive when intalling and removing the slip on numerous times.
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Old 07-20-2009, 12:37 AM   #3
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pick up a set of stock header pipes on here for cheap, and let the muffler shop have a go at enlarging the existing ones. If they fark it up you still have a spare set.
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:24 AM   #4
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When I tuned my CFR, it would pop until I richened up the mix. I made it so when the RPMs were high and the gas was backed off, it still added a little fuel. Popping went away. Try that... it might not be a leak.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:48 AM   #5
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I can't believe you're still fooling around with this problem ... it's been all summer!

I love the look and sound of the CFR, but is it really so great that you're willing to put up with the problem over and over again?

Just get a different pipe ... there are so many options out there
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:55 PM   #6
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Thanks for the advice guys.

I hear you Sinic. I've decided that I'll have one more go at the RTV and just live with it.
I'm now worried about the pipe starting to back off the header though but I'll try to ride into work on Wed to test it out. Besides, with the weather we've been hading it's not like I have been missing many riding days! :-o
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:44 PM   #7
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That paste is for very small spaces! It has no strength! Wheres the clamp to fit around this joint in the pipes? Even a hose clamp will work. You need to be able to "crush" the outer pipe around the inner pipe. Sometimes you need to make the "gaps" in the end of the outer pipe wider to allow this. Expanding the inner pipe will also make this work, just not as easy to do.
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Old 07-20-2009, 05:14 PM   #8
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You could always buy one of these: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...+Pipe+Expander and try to expand the pipes yourself. Very easy to use and you can go in small increments.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:15 AM   #9
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silicone sealants are never gonna cure the root if the issue....the inlets where it clamps on is slightly too large...you need to have the stock headers opened up IMO.

also,the second issue is the rear mount....if the rear is mounted in a good manner,the front cannot come loose so easily....

the RH uses the AW mount system,you may want to look into the AW bracket which is heavy duty.


worst some to worst....why dont you just have the thing tacked(welded) in a few spots in addition to the clamp...that should hold the mutha on there!

Dan
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:33 PM   #10
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Old 07-21-2009, 02:09 PM   #11
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You may have already done this but......

When you take the CFR off next, place the expanded portion beside the header pipes and align the end of the expanded portion with the tip of the header pipe and mark the spot with a sharpie. Now as you are "tapping the CFR pipe on to the header pipe you can be sure that it is actually going as far on the header pipe as it should. Then tighten down the exhaust bracket.

I also used a stainless steel bolt that was a little larger in diameter than the one that came with the rubber insulator and added a stainless washer and nylon locking nut on the top and bottom. That way if it was trying to slide off the larger bolt would prevent it from occuring.

I also found that the little sharpie mark let me see at a quick glance while riding if anything had moved.


I would also recommend that if it keeps occuring that you contact Cary Faas and ask for his advice. He is a great guy and will be more than willing to share his experiences.

I hope you resolve the issue real soon.
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Old 07-21-2009, 03:59 PM   #12
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Dan, I thought about welding but that means if the pipe ever needed to be removed they'd have to remove it from the header/motor connection and having a leak there would put me worse off!

V-Rod I FL - it never dawned on me to try the manufacturer. I will probably give Cary a call later this week.
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chenner View Post
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Dan, I thought about welding but that means if the pipe ever needed to be removed they'd have to remove it from the header/motor connection and having a leak there would put me worse off!

V-Rod I FL - it never dawned on me to try the manufacturer. I will probably give Cary a call later this week.
just a couple small tacks i mean...and you could do just one header(similar to what they did on 09s)...'

if it needs to come off you just cut the tacks with dremel...simple.

Dan
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Old 07-24-2009, 03:54 PM   #14
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You can ask Max or anyone else he is real customer oriented and I am sure will help you find a solution.

Please be sure your pipe is up on the header pipes as far as it will go. I was fortunate enough to find this issue out before it was too late.... Of course I was having some fun with my previous V-Rod (see pictures in my gallery). 140rwhp always intices you to see what it is capable of.......

I hope you find a solution real soon.

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Old 07-24-2009, 05:26 PM   #15
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Any chance of drilling a hole on each side and putting in a couple small screws?
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