In the past there has been some problems with the bearing not being fitted very well in the housing.
I have been told that the entire unit has been reworked.
They are NOT supplying any tuning kits. You will have to use what you have or get something that works.
The unit requires you to interchange the TB parts onto the S/C.
I would recommend contacting ohioVROD (Fitzgerald Motor Sports) and haveScott weld the screws in on the butterflies.
I have been in contact with them for a couple of weeks.
I am in the process of becoming the Vrod Supercharger Dealer in the USA.
I will not be responsible for an waranty items.
I can assist you if need be.
I am just the guy to go to if you wish to buy a unit.
MSRP is $4995.00
10% discount $4495.50
If you are serious about buying a kit please post up.
I need at least 5 to get a better discount.
If there is not enough interest then this will die!!!!!
I have wanted one of these and now it is going to happen.
I don't know been researching that one my self and all the muscle car guys suggest different can for super chargers and different ones for turbos. Would be interested in seeing what our differences would be between the two.
Yes correct - cams SE II pt 30076-09 and the SE II destroyer injectors 27791-05
Also don't expect great fuel economy, over 125km (78 m/hr) as the 3rd injector kick in as we'll as the cams
Anyway anyone that gets the kit will be happy they did and have one of them childish grins from ear to ear
Ros was it sprintex that said about the cams ,or where u get this info from ,cos my researchstill says sc engines have cams completley different to turbo applications. Again this comes from drag car and hot rod boys
bwds yeah he post that up on one of his emails from them. But like you I thought that the stage 2 might actually be better then the stock cams for the SC application. Would be interested in seeing what a dyno would have to say about that.
Instructions
1 Determine where you want your power-band to be. Positive-displacement or "Roots-type" superchargers tend to produce massive power at low rpm and taper off higher in the rpm range; centrifugal superchargers (which are really just belt-driven turbos) work only in the rpm range.
2 Acquire a cam with more exhaust lift and duration. This is quite possibly the most crucial element of supercharger camshaft selection, since the supercharger cannot push more air in if there is already exhaust gases in the cylinder. Most performance cams use more lift and duration on the intake side to pull more air in; you will want to utilize a cam with exhaust lift and duration at least ten percent higher than the intake.
3 Specify your cam with the wide lobe separation angle to ensure the lowest possible overlap. Overlap is the amount of time in degrees that the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time, and excess amounts of it can work against your supercharger by allowing exhaust backpressure to negate supercharger pressure while the valves are open. Avoid any cam with more than 30-degrees of overlap.
4Purchase a cam designed for use with roller-lifters. This is not a strict necessity; you could go with an old-school flat-tappet camshaft, but you are losing out on horsepower, torque and quite possibly fuel efficiency. A roller-tappet camshaft allows the valves to open and close quicker, which allows you to run a bit less lobe separation while keeping overlap to a minimum. A slightly lower (about one-degree) lobe-separation angle will increase cylinder pressure and low-rpm torque without adversely affecting the engine's octane tolerance or idle quality.
Based on this, it would be interesting to look at using an SE2 Exhaust cam and a stock intake cam. If they can be degreed to get the overlap down low enough that might be a monster setup. Now I'm pissed I sold my stock cams dammit.
IMHO Destroyer injectors would be a necessity in almost any setup, most certainly big bores, along with either or both of a higher pressure fuel regulator and higher volume fuel pump.
Scott brings up a lot of good points on other areas that will need to be paid attention to, most notably the trans and clutch. Tires will be expendable (Hell, they already are for me!).
Right now I'm on the sidelines until I see at least a couple of these running in stock motors so I can have some confidence they will stay together. After that, I'm heading to Lane country
No one recommended the SE cams -
I had a lead area in the AFR curve around 3,800 - 4,200 and couldn't get it to come up - the Sprintex guys recommend either Ducati or the Destroyer injectors
So I thought go for cams as well - yes there are probably a lot better ones out there for this set up
For u Ozie boys u can only do 110kms/hr anyway :banghead: and the economy is not bad - expect at least 170 out of the tank
No one recommended the SE cams -
I had a lead area in the AFR curve around 3,800 - 4,200 and couldn't get it to come up - the Sprintex guys recommend either Ducati or the Destroyer injectors
So I thought go for cams as well - yes there are probably a lot better ones out there for this set up
For u Ozie boys u can only do 110kms/hr anyway :banghead: and the economy is not bad - expect at least 170 out of the tank
A timed intake cam is good as an exhaust. Look valve diagrams in my 1487 cc turbo 2nd edit topic or JanDirk's "different approac to turbo camming" topic.
Fab,I don't get good economy now don't want it,u play u pay,but 125 per tank isn't do able ,I got further than that between gas stations at times where I ride
I think you may have misread the post on fuel economy here, it reads to me he is referring to 125 kph where a thifd injector cuts in, looks like he gets 170 a tank from a later post.
As for injectors, im not that mechanically minded but i dont see why everyone wants bigger on a stock engine, mine runs stock with a higher pressure fuel pump and runs more rear wheel than i reckon the SC is going to yield.
I know, if that's a problem then you have no choice. I live in a 100 mile Island with gas stations every 5 minutes and even then I've had problems refilling, cant imagine if I had a blower attached to the bike.... :hidesbeh:
Any boosted vehicle can be tuned to run economically...infact...they should be 'more efficient' than non-boosted.
The lack of economy comes from the uncontrollable urge to twist the throttle BECAUSE you're 'boosted'. :dance:
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