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HELP with codes and diagnostics, bike dumped on me while riding... >=-(

11K views 60 replies 17 participants last post by  FABSTER 
#1 ·
OK here is the story, bike was working perfectly but yesterday it really went bananas and ended up behaving like a POS...

I left home and like a mile after I stopped to refill gas. After leaving the gas station I cranked the throttle and noticed it reacted funny, almost like hitting the rev limiter even if the RPMs where still low.

Kept riding and taking up the highway I cranked the throttle and noticed it reacted funny again, sometimes it revved up properly and sometimes it felt like if I had downshifted...

All of a sudden it starts stuttering like having a charge problem or something and then dies while riding... I parked to the side and tried to restart the bike to no avail. Since I was like 10 miles from home, my Wife came in the car and we jumped the bike for a LONG period before it started. Tried to ride it but it behaved like a total POS so I stopped shortly and had the bike towed home by a friend.

First impression was the battery was fried and giving problems, hence it didnt had enough charge to keep the bike's vital functions while operating, but after charging it with the tender and firing up the bike a couple times, it still behaves like crap, sometimes not firing at all.

1) First thing I notice is that after revving it, it revs down in a slowly fashion independent of the TB butterflies closing: for example, the butterflies close completely and the engine is still revving down slowly.

2) Even when the tach is not working, I can monitor the RPMs with the shift light and it shows to be in 1,200 RPMs when it stays fired, which is the normal reading.

Bike is a 2005 VRSCSE, the display shows PSSPt, which I understand refers to

P= ECM
S= TSM/TSSM
SP= Speedometer
t= tachometer

After checking the diagnostic codes (first time for me) and clearing them up, I got these readings:

P= nonE / Pn 127 P001-0
S= nonE / Pn 68922-00C
Sp= b1004 / End / Pn 74480-05
t= no rSP

Ok, as you can see I'm new to this so that's why I listed everything. :hidesbeh:

In the big picture what I can interpret is:

1) "b1004" which according to the Code lists it's a "fuel sender low code" (B1004- Current Fuel sender low 2.11 DTCB1004/B1005).
2) The "no rSP" code on the tach clearly indicates the tach is not working
3) The "Pn 68922-00C" shows like the part number of the TSSM security module
4) The "Pn 74480-05" shows to be the VRSCSE speedometer
5) No idea on the "Pn 127 P001-0" numbers


I'll keep reading and checking here and on the manuals, but ANY help will be highly appreciated... it was really depressing to see my bike going from perfect form to a dying stage, and on top of that letting me stranded on the highway... :sad:
 
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#4 ·
check connector going to fuel pump under the seat.

Disconnect it and check it for cracks at both ends.
 
#5 ·
Thanks a lot guys! Just returned from church and a divine thought came to my mind thinking about gator's statement about the fuel :D , I remembered that finishing the refill, the fuel bursted off the tank and spilled all over the place, I usually have a couple napkins around but this time I had none, so tomorrow I'll be checking below the seat as RSC advised since the symptoms started right after leaving the gas station, who knows if that spill messed up something?!

After some reading I've seen similar behavior with faulty voltage regulator and fuel pumps, some stating the fuel pump can work intermitently and hence making it difficult to diagnose. So far it can be heard with the ignition switch but I'll keep an eye on it... :coff:

Any other suggestions will be appreciated, thanks for your insights!
 
#6 ·
Ok not much time today to check things but did a little bit.

1) fuel pump connector under the seat looks good, as well as the connecting lines/hoses at least at that end (fuel tank side).

2) At this stage the engine cranks but not starts, and checking through the manual troubleshooting made a test and confirmed the engine actually starts if the throttle blades are open and stalls and dies when the blades close down, so looks like it's maybe an IAC related problem
 
#60 ·
This is where a Dynojet Power Vision would come in handy. I had a similar problem with a 2003 Electra-Glide a while back.

The bike was running fine when I stopped for a red light about 8 miles from home, at night. When the light turned green, I opened the throttle and the engine quit. It started but quit when I opened the throttle again. I finally realized that if I opened the throttle just enough to get rolling, I could nurse the bike home.

I hooked up the Power Vision and had all sorts of codes. I cleared them all and immediately got a throttle position failure code. I set throttle position on the display and it started at 15 with the throttle closed. At that point I wondered how it even ran.

I replaced the throttle position sensor and the bike runs fine now.

Good luck.
 
#7 ·
Take the fuel cap off and look in the tank and see if you see bubbles when the pump primes.

I have had the fuel line come off the the pump once.
 
#9 ·
Butterflies seem to be opening/closing normally, thing is it sounds like out of tune or something right when it fires, it's not the normal exhaust note. Another thing is it cranks and fires when it's left for a period of time, then when you fire/turn it off a couple times, it cranks but doesnt want to fire UNLESS I open the throttle-butterflies like described before and makes some sort of "puff" sound like coming from the TBs or injectors.... Which makes me remember when the wife's Softail had a loose spark plug wire..... maybe???? Hhmmmm.... :bolt

-update: doesnt look like the spark plug wires are loose after taking a look..
 
#13 ·
Do you have 58mm throttle bodies or stock? If they are 58's make sure the pivot pins for both butterflies are not cracked underneath the butterflies. It is amazing how much that can throw off your tune. Just one more thing to rule out.
 
#14 ·
Also, what tuner are you using? Are you running 02 sensors?
 
#15 ·
58 mm Destroyer TBs, Race tuner (old version), no O2 sensors... Checked the butterfly shafts and doesn't look like they are damaged. Was thinking about finally changing the throttle/idle cables since I adjusted them recently before that dreaded ride and the service manual states the IAC symptoms can result from other stuff like misadjusted throttle shaft, air leaks, etc... Don't have much hope on that solving the problem but the cables need to be replaced anyways so...
 
#16 ·
All of a sudden it starts stuttering like having a charge problem or something and then dies while riding... I parked to the side and tried to restart the bike to no avail. Since I was like 10 miles from home, my Wife came in the car and we jumped the bike for a LONG period before it started. Tried to ride it but it behaved like a total POS so I stopped shortly and had the bike towed home by a friend.
First impression was the battery was fried and giving problems, hence it didnt had enough charge to keep the bike's vital functions while operating, but after charging it with the tender and firing up the bike a couple times, it still behaves like crap, sometimes not firing at all.
Battery / stator ?? Apparently you've had to jump it and charge it twice.. Get the Battery load tested. If it is fine then do a charging test on the stator.. IMO
 
#17 ·
Thanks, I'll be replacing the battery soon anyways, I'm almost sure it still has the factory battery :eek: in which case it's a miracle it's still working :hidesbeh: I'll also be replacing the throttle cables and checking the idle adjustment in the TB shaft, I have a feeling it might have been disrupted in some way the last time I adjusted the th/idle cables. I have to wait until Tuesday to call the shop and see when can I bring the bike, they've been closed for Easter break since the bike seizured. If I can make her run at least before bringing her in much better... :banghead:
 
#18 ·
Did you adjust the cables with the bike running?
 
#19 ·
With the bike off and then running, but the thing is I had to adjust the cable so the throttle arm at WOT activated the NOS microswitch, and I didn't twist the throttle wide open while "running" in the garage for obvious reasons, the first ride afterwards was the one reffered in the first post... (maybe the throttle shaft/rod was forced by trying to reach the farthest end to activate the MSwitch?.. :banghead: )


...any particular recommendations on order/how should I proceed with the cables relacement/adjustment and/or idle adjustment? I've adjusted these cables a 1,000 times before but haven't had any serious trouble like now.... *sigh* :sad:
 
#20 ·
Today I grew a little dYck and finally started changing the throttle idle cables of my bike that recently left me stranded on the highway and while attaching the throttle cable... :coff: found a loose injector connector, hmmmm... Pressed the ignition button and VOILÀ!!!! :dance: Fired up beautifully!!!! I almost wanted to cry of happiness!!! :hyper: Let's see if I can finish her up tomorrow, new battery is coming along too...incredibly it has the factory battery from 2005 :eek: and I must admit it's still working good! But I won't take any more chances and replace it.... :spank:
 
#24 ·
Great to hear! (that the bike is fixed, not that you grew a little dYck :D)
 
#58 ·
My '05B has the original battery too..not on a tender or any type of charge and it still cranks 'er over good..just sayin' :D
 
#21 ·
Good stuff, god knows what the stealership would've charged you or what story they would've made up on how they fixed the issue... ha
 
#25 ·
Glad to hear you have it running.

I start the bike with the cables loose.

I then adjust the idle cable up tight untill the rpms start to go up. STOP!

I then back it off 2 flats to make sure it idles back down. Do this with the engine warm.

I then adjust the the return until the spring pulls the throttle back with ease.

Good Luck!
 
#28 ·
UPDATE:

As some of you may know the peoblem came back. Took the bike for a ride last week and same thing happened after half an hour running, thank God I was close to home and was able to bring the bike back. This time the injector plugs where not loose, so I guess The loose injector connector the first time was only a coincidence, but it's weird it ran fine after plugging it back... Now it fires up bit starts stumbling miserably and backfiring.

Bike is supposed to go to the shop on Saturday, let's see... Here's a vid of the symptoms in case anyone has a clue:



Can Anyone sing "Great balls of fiire!!!"??? :hidesbeh:
 
#29 ·
UPDATE:

As some of you may know the peoblem came back. Took the bike for a ride last week and same thing happened after half an hour running, thank God I was close to home and was able to bring the bike back. This time the injector plugs where not loose, so I guess The loose injector connector the first time was only a coincidence, but it's weird it ran fine after plugging it back... Now it fires up bit starts stumbling miserably and backfiring.

Bike is supposed to go to the shop on Saturday, let's see... Here's a vid of the symptoms in case anyone has a clue:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qidNxUjSHwk&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Can Anyone sing "Great balls of fiire!!!"??? :hidesbeh:


:( hope you get that fixed soon!
 
#30 ·
can you tell what cylinder is mising?
 
#32 ·
okay.

Check the coil pack plugs.

Switch the coil packs front to rear.

Check all connectors around the TB's

If you can change out the Map Sensor with some ekses rtry it.
One screw and it pulls out.

You could have a simple cracked spark plug. so check them to.

You can do this, jump in there and go at it again.

I know you can do it.

Rod
 
#33 ·
Rod,

Tried to PM you but you inbox is full...
Darn it... Fired the bike and Did what you suggested with the run/stop switch and when I fired it again.... Sounds like a broken valve or something hammering inside the engine... :banghead: If that's what you meant with the bike "acting up", then there it is! LMAO.. (NOOOOT!)

:hitfan:
 
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