i broken enough shit to know what i can use as a fastener. the ONLY reason manufacturers use GRADE 8 or what ever they choose is because of liabilities. so they don't git there ass sued if some dumb ass can't ride/drive operate what ever the fastener is on......
Actually now that I removed the bolts, I see they are stamped 10.9. I will attempt to stay with that. I agree with Drew, too soft can bend, too brittle can snap. I suppose this is why they are graded.
I just replaced mine with 304 stainless socket heads. Polished up like chrome and never rusts. As for hardness and grade, they should be pretty close to the zinc plated junk. An M12 bolt torqued to 60-NM is well under its tensile strength, so softness is probably better.
the stock shock bolts are high tensile bolts(cad plated), harley USED to make a chrome shock bolt kit, ( chroming high tensile steel will weaken it), they stopped this in 04. any grade of stainless steel bolt will not have the same properties as a high tensile bolt (they are too brittle). be careful what you choose! polishing the heads on the stock bolts every so often will keep them looking shiny without diminishing their properties.
the stock shock bolts are high tensile bolts(cad plated), harley USED to make a chrome shock bolt kit, ( chroming high tensile steel will weaken it), they stopped this in 04. any grade of stainless steel bolt will not have the same properties as a high tensile bolt (they are too brittle). be careful what you choose! polishing the heads on the stock bolts every so often will keep them looking shiny without diminishing their properties.
There is a baking process that will reverse the effects of hydrogen embrittlement of which you speak. Hydrogen embrittlement even happens during a hard chroming process which is commonly used in the aerospace industry. Just purchase chrome hardware from a quality manufacturer and ask if they peform a hydrogen embrittlement releif process.
I've had my shock bolts on and off prob 6-7 times without getting new ones..., changing swingarms. shocks, tires , belt guards etc.... Damn hope I dont have catastrophic failure....
I guess your shock bolt choice depends on if you have 300 lb lard ass sittin behind you swallowing up your passenger pillion on your way to jump the Grand Canyon Evil Kneevil style......
when it comes to spension bolts, if you buy that chrome stuff,if there are no markings on the head, the are 0.0 grade. You can not go wrong with 8.8 hardware unless a certan
grade is speced.. There are a lot of times when you need to safety wire them, and you can get a jig (can i say that ) at an aircraft tool supply store. Do not go 130 and and fall down and then say "whoops", i know. spell check is not work'in
I have found that there is a lot more involved in selecting the proper hardware for a given application than one might think, especially for automotive or aviation applications. The good thing is that there is a wealth of easily obtained information on the web. I have attached a couple of pdf's of the 30 some that I have collected over the past couple of years for anyone who might be interested. I have also found the "Mechanics Toolbox" software a very useful source of information.
There is no way you would need better than 10.9 quality. The 6 bolts that hold the trailer hitch on my truck are 10.9 and the hitch is rated for 14k lbs. They are I think 12mm bolts. Your talking 500 lbs max on them static and maybe double that shock load. Shear strength on a 10.9 bolt the size of the shock bolts is easily over 10k lbs I have the chart somewhere around here if you want exact numbers. I would use even a lower grade such as 8.8 without thinking twice.
Chrome bolts for suspension componentry worry me due to hydrogen embrittlement (mentioned previously)
Many a hot-rodder has been killed using shiny chrome fasteners for the brakes and steering components. Use the correct grading bolt and paint them...it's about your life or someone elses if something goes wrong.
As for bolt stretch this is normally used by professional engine builders on conrod bolts as it's a good method for checking torque yeild (there are spec tables for this from the manufacturer of the bolt)
Over torque a bolt on a critical engine component (once) (conrod) and it's cactus. Bolts for the rear shocks are in shear whereas bolts for conrods are under tension.
This is a good reason to have a quality torque wrench and not something with a needle pointing at a number. Just take into account that the next time you buy a bolt for a specific function (brakes/steering) that 'shiny' is not always safe!
Chrome bolts for suspension componentry worry me due to hydrogen embrittlement (mentioned previously)
Many a hot-rodder has been killed using shiny chrome fasteners for the brakes and steering components. Use the correct grading bolt and paint them...it's about your life or someone elses if something goes wrong.
I hope you do not fly on modern airplanes, hard chrome is used in many components in the aerospace industry, including landing gear struts. If you are uncomfortable about the situation, please stay away from modern aircraft. There is a process to reverse hydrogen embrittlement, its performed after the plating process has been completed.
Tread lightly Sammy, there's little room here for 21st century technology and know how. sure you'll be getting a couple "You're a fokken idiot" post here shortly from the baby boomer crowd that's been wrenching since before you were a itch in your daddy's crawl.
Point taken, but I am a baby boomer myself! Although I still like to learn, just my memory is not what it used to be. At least from what I remember. Now what did I have for breakfast?
the forum seems to filled with a bunch of "my way is not only the best way, but it is the only way" folks lately. I think certain folks actually believe that everyone that uses SS bolts are getting them from Ace Hardware!
I use 'all-thread' from Ace. It's always the correct length, and I never have any problem getting the nuts tight. I do dislike the scrape marks my 'crescent' wrench makes on the associated parts as cinch them up, though.
In my opinion, the design of the upper shock mounts is really Mickey Mouse, and the bolts are crappy. I weigh like only 190 pounds, never take a passenger, and everytime I have ever removed the upper bolts, they are bent. They go too far into and thru the frame and it allows slack where they bend. They should thread right into the frame, not go thru the frame then into a threaded mount. Also I put chrome shock bolts on with my chrome shocks, and they are soft, I have stripped four now upon installing and removing the back wheel due to those rear axle covers having to come on and off. The allen heads seem real soft. The original non chrome bolts seemed harder at the head, but still bent at the upper mount. Its still a great bike, but some of the chrome fasteners I feel are too soft.
Damn, my project is long done but the thread refuses to die!!! 12mm bolts are not easily available in chrome, seems most online shops stop at 10mm. I bought proper strength bolts new and had them chromed.
I ride 2-up quite a bit and have never bent a shock bolt.
Damn, my project is long done but the thread refuses to die!!! 12mm bolts are not easily available in chrome, seems most online shops stop at 10mm. I bought proper strength bolts new and had them chromed.
I ride 2-up quite a bit and have never bent a shock bolt.
Well by that time neither you or I where here yet... he must have started his anti-chrome campaign afterwards.... BTW it's strange he hasn't replied yet... Must be whipping himself for bringing up this shameful post.... :rofl:
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum
2.7M posts
68.6K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Harley Davidson V-Rod Motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, performance, classifieds, and more!