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1487cc Turbo 2nd Edition

154K views 701 replies 77 participants last post by  coastrider 
#1 ·
I decided to open a new topic to entertainment you with my 2nd edition engine build and
raise some useful discussion up about a Revolution pushed to it's limit in street use.
My target is 250rwhp@7500rpm 185 ft-lbs@5000rpm, but especially I'm trying to improve reliability, which has been the problem. I'm fustrated to open the engine every 3000km.

So, here we go....

CP Pistons are the old ones, driven 6000km. There are couple of scratches in a skirt because of flying bearing pieces in the engine. They are measured and polished to prevent carbon building to the top. Compression ratio is a mandatory in my case.

Has somebody seen somewhere forged pistons for 4.25" (12:1, 1/4" stroker offset pin)?

New piston rings and at this time end plays are adjusted smaller than previously.

1st 0.60mm
2nd 0.70mm
oil ring 0.35mm

Old K1 rods, new bolts. There are marks of flattened and spread pin bushings under pressure. Pin clearances are still okay, but too narrow or soft pin bushings will be a problem in the future. Better pushing material will be needed some day.





Wiseco cylinder liners are used ones. They are measured and re-honed to RA12 recarding CP's instruction for Ductile moly rings.






Falicon 3/8" stroker full circle crank. As I know there are two types of Falicon full circle ctranks in the market.
The other one is with an open rod pin and an other one with blugged rod pin, like mine. How are oil drillings when the rod pin is nod blugged. Does somebody know what is a backround for changes?
 
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#125 · (Edited by Moderator)
Again a full workin day at workshop. Didn't get much done. F*ing front brake didin't get air out and a bleeding tool is at another workshop.

Seem that Destroyer's front sprocket and Renegade's wheel+sprocket are excatly in line. Because of extra wide 26mm EK chain I will offset rear 1.5mm and front 1.8mm to get reasonable chain to rim clearance.



I tested also a new trailer. It is enough wide for handlebar, but mirrors have to bended. I would need tiny mirrors with signal lights.



A new bracket for an intercooler because of chain drive will be the next task. The chain drive vill need some nylon guides as well.
 
#127 ·
Holy S**t, the front head gasket is leaking coolant out:banghead:
It is Cometic 0.060" multi layer.
Some good advice available?
 
#130 ·
The tightening torque was 70Nm.
Im using stock dowels, so the holes in gaskets should be ok. A Clearance of the rest of the studs to gasket is more than 1 mm

Maybe liners are a little bit high, or all the surfaces are not straight. I do not want to machine them because of critical compression rate.

I tried to full the layer-gasket with Loctite capilar clue and vacuum in cooling system, didn't succeed.

The leak settled down with several cold-hot-cold idle cycles and a just a little amount of CRC radiator repair.

I will tighten the studs to 75-80Nm when the first valve check will take place....if the engine will last so long.

Will continue tomorrow by making an inter cooler fitting...them the bike is ready.
 
#134 ·
A wall thickness af stock dovels machined for 12 mm studs is about 0.5 mm. Look the post #36. It is Not much, but enought to guide a gasket and a head during an assembly.

Nitroslick, what kind of billet casing you have?
 
#135 · (Edited by Moderator)
Did a new fitting for a cooler. Will re-chape the plate to reduce weight before polishing.



A t"echnical deparmet" is ready. Not much changes there.
 
#138 ·
Thanks Pono! If You have something with your turbo build, do not hesitate to ask.

It is a labor day in Finland, so I did some extra labor by finishing the cooler bracket. A material is AISI316 or A4, bought them from scrap yard by 4€. Seems that I'm collecting fat all the time, every updated part is heavier than an existing. An old IC bracket was 483g and the new one is 705g. The new wheels and chain drive are heavier than stock ones as well.

Last time I visited on scale, the bike weighted 270kg (1/4 tank of fuel), I think it is currently near 280kg. 1crank hp/1wet kg w/o driver will stay.
 
#141 ·
No more boost, but less beer, chocolate and icecream will balance the hp/kg ratio.

Got the bike ready today...

.... but otherwise the day was unlucky:banghead:. Was not able to make a test drive. I updated a 200km/h firmware I have downloaded at last autumn. Started the bike and it ran some seconds with one cylinder and died. A lot of Fuel was spraying from exhaust. Checked the firmware and it was for 100kPa. Updated the old 300kPa firmware back, but the bike didn't start any more. Both of sparkplugs are gone. I Will buy new Iridium ones tomorrow, no racing plugs any more...
 
#142 ·
Couple of tips:

1. I think this is the simpliest construction to connect fuel pressure with manifold pressure. The angle connector is also an adjustable resistor to reduce pulsing.

2. I almost burned my bike couple of days ago, when Siemens Deka injector dropped from fuel rail and fuel sprayed to hot primary. I was lucky when gasoline didn't flame, even the engine was really hot at idle. I made collars to a bottom ends of the injectors to prevent them to drop from the rail. I strongly recommended it to everyone using Dekas. (Collar; Inside diameter 13mm, outside 15mm, height 4mm)



3. Found a tuning shop in UK who is selling 32mm main line and 25mm branch silicone T-pieces. The T-piece and an aluminium plug is a nice way to take a cooling for turbo. Previously I had some ugly looking Volvo turbo rubber hose.
 
#144 ·
The collars are just pieces of aluminum pipe. The idea is to support injector frames to cylinder heads via the collars, so that any axial movement is not possible. Look closely "fuel regulator" picture.


Actually T-hose is for return from turbo. I have plugged supply into the water pump housing. You can see it in "ready bike" picture.
http://www.apmotorstore.co.uk/silicone-hose-t-piece-stp-032.html
http://www.apmotorstore.co.uk/alloy-blanking-plug-abp-025.html

The bike is running well with new spark plugs. A Primary w/o the narrow clearance eliminator gear is noisy.
 
#146 ·
I got the new R43 300kPa firmware for VRFI from Chris at Daytona TwinTech. Now it is time to start to look tuning.
After 30km driving it is already very clear that timed 4x Intake cam map will be very different compared to stock camming.

Authorities in a country have been started to measure noices and taken register plates, so I made a 2½ - 2"cone baffler to be stealth and un-noteable:D.
Dont know how many HP I lost, but I have a pile of straight exhaust pipes when I will be in a hurry!



An exhaust gas view.
 
#147 ·
Glad your up and running, have been watching close to see how everything works out,machine work,injectors etc.
Any noticeable difference in VRFI firmware?

Sent from my PC36100 using Motorcycle.com App
 
#148 ·
At least the new firmware notices a speed above 200km/h. It has been flustrated, when a speedometer and VRFI log file are freezing in 200. Nothing else notable yet.
To generate new maps I have set a basic injector pulse to 20ms, it is a theoretilal 9000rpm max with 1bar boost. it is based of formula 3bar/2bar *13.3ms/rev*2rev=20ms.

Btw Mr. Lane, howit is going with ceramic coatings?
 
#152 ·
Haven't fired it yet,was going to yesterday but when spinning motor over priming oil I had a leak in middle of turbo oil line, waiting on new one.

Sent from my PC36100 using Motorcycle.com App
 
#149 ·
Btw, missing of automatic compression relasers in exh cams are not an issue. A 1487cc 10.5:1 bike starts great with a normal 3 years old battery.
 
#150 ·
How much does your baffle drop the sound level? It's still pretty straight-through.
 
#212 ·
You were right, a noice meter says 109dB at 4100rpm.:mad:

edit: I noticed afterwards that silencer wool has disappeared during the season.
 
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