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1487cc Turbo 2nd Edition

154K views 701 replies 77 participants last post by  coastrider 
#1 ·
I decided to open a new topic to entertainment you with my 2nd edition engine build and
raise some useful discussion up about a Revolution pushed to it's limit in street use.
My target is 250rwhp@7500rpm 185 ft-lbs@5000rpm, but especially I'm trying to improve reliability, which has been the problem. I'm fustrated to open the engine every 3000km.

So, here we go....

CP Pistons are the old ones, driven 6000km. There are couple of scratches in a skirt because of flying bearing pieces in the engine. They are measured and polished to prevent carbon building to the top. Compression ratio is a mandatory in my case.

Has somebody seen somewhere forged pistons for 4.25" (12:1, 1/4" stroker offset pin)?

New piston rings and at this time end plays are adjusted smaller than previously.

1st 0.60mm
2nd 0.70mm
oil ring 0.35mm

Old K1 rods, new bolts. There are marks of flattened and spread pin bushings under pressure. Pin clearances are still okay, but too narrow or soft pin bushings will be a problem in the future. Better pushing material will be needed some day.





Wiseco cylinder liners are used ones. They are measured and re-honed to RA12 recarding CP's instruction for Ductile moly rings.






Falicon 3/8" stroker full circle crank. As I know there are two types of Falicon full circle ctranks in the market.
The other one is with an open rod pin and an other one with blugged rod pin, like mine. How are oil drillings when the rod pin is nod blugged. Does somebody know what is a backround for changes?
 
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#582 ·
Handlebar wiring starts to be like from a moon racket. The chromed switch housings are from Ultra Glide with four additional switches.

Clutch switch for launch control
Turn signal mirrors
Air suspension up/down front
Air suspension up/down rear
V-gauge menu controls
V-gauge
normal warning lights


 
#584 ·
The clutch switch is a pressure switch, purposed to use for brake lights. It is from time I was teasing the bike at drag strips.

The air piston is replacing part of the metal pipe between spring and end cap.
 
#585 ·
Made a new air ride supply.unit with a bigger compressor than Arnott has. There is magnetic valves for front and rear air rides. All aluminum or stainless.








 
#586 ·
Made a stainless sscoop. Not so neat :banghead: have to think, leave it or throw it away.

 
#588 ·
I have an alcohol injection, 85% Ethanol (E85) :D
Seriously talking, one option is to reject the ugly inter cooler.
 
#589 ·
Received finally a new front wheel. The next is to made a tiny fender.

 
#591 ·
This 1487cc motor has always had 10.5 compression, done by opening combustion chambers and 0.060" head gaskets. Ran 242 rwhp with pump 98RON gas and currently around 300rwhp with 106RON E85. Have changed cams, butterflies, turbo, cooler, charge pipes, exhaust primaries etc between those numbers.
 
#592 ·
Off topic again, but that’s my last winter project. It is complete new self made methanol funny bike with high electricied functions. At the moment it is tuned to 630hp at 1.6bar. Final will be 800hp.






 
#593 ·
...did also a new saddle for T-Rod. It is 5th saddle for this bike.

 
#594 ·
Hi Karzza,

Have been following your threads and posts closely seeing as you seem to have a wealth of knowledge on turbocharging the VROD.

I was wondering if you can provide me with a few answers to my questions.

1. What turbo would you recommend for a standard 1250 looking to make approx. 200hp at the rear on 8-9 PSI of boost. Was looking at the GT2860 with a .42 rear housing. Or maybe even a GT2554. What do you think the best option would be here including turbine housing size? Internal or externally gated.

2. What injectors do you you recommend that can be used with the standard fuel rail at this power level? I see that you have tested quite a few sets.

Thanks and much appreciated.
 
#595 ·
Sorry fo the late reply.
1. GT2554R is the optimal. An Internal gate is great.
2. Destroyer injectors, Walbro 255lph and Bosch 5bar regulator.
 
#596 ·
"target is 250rwhp@7500rpm 185 ft-lbs@5000rpm, but especially I'm trying to improve reliability"
Hmmm..what is known as an oxymoron (a figure of speech which contradicts itself)
I'm not disrespecting you. All the best in your project. You'll definitely be one of the most knowledgeable people on V-Rod engines and what work and what doesn't.
Wicked looking bike BTW.....:thumb:
 
#597 ·
Here we go at the track. 2nd in FHRA serie 2019. T-Rod is still in weekly street use.
 

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#598 · (Edited)
Did rip down the engine, driven around 10.000km on street, since the last overhaul 10y ago. Nothing was wrong in the bike, but wanted to seen how coated crank bearings are doing. The crank bearings are perfect, but I found some headgasket leak and pitting in the straight cut 2nd gears. The wrist pin problem was known from the last overhaul and it will be solved now with Mukle.
Thinking to leave the balancer shaft off to minimise related broblems. Has someone been using Falicon 3/8” full circle w/o balancer on street, is it vibrating too much to keep teeth and screws on board?
Serveware Dishware Tableware Artifact Material property

Wheel Tire Furniture Automotive tire Cabinetry

Rectangle Wood Gas Tints and shades Metal
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive engine gasket Rim
 
#602 ·
Did rip down the engine, driven around 10.000km on street, since the last overhaul 10y ago. Nothing was wrong in the bike, but wanted to seen how coated crank bearings are doing. The crank bearings are perfect, but I found some headgasket leak and pitting in the straight cut 2nd gears. The wrist pin problem was known from the last overhaul and it will be solved now with Mukle.
Thinking to leave the balancer shaft off to minimise related broblems. Has someone been using Falicon 3/8” full circle w/o balancer on street, is it vibrating too much to keep teeth and screws on board?


View attachment 609713
Time to solve this gear pitting issue. Give these guys a call, they make custom billet gears for almost anything (I have a complete set of their billet gears in my DSM auto transmission....). Not too expensive considering either: Liberty's Gears | An Elite Tremec Transmission Distributor, making us the best source for all of your T-5, T-45, T-56, T-56 Magnum, TKO-500, TKO-600, 3650 and 6060 transmission needs.

Tell them you heard about the billet Mitsubishi/DSM auto gears they sell and want to know if they can make one for the Vrod (you will have to send them a gear to look at.....).
 
#600 · (Edited)
Thanks. I’t nice someone is intrested about this classic build. Actually a local American Iron Magazine wrote an article about the bike some months ago. The headliline was "hi-tech Harely", but in nowadays scale it is far beyond from hi-tech. My Funnybike is a high tech in a global level at the moment.
Wheel Tire Fuel tank Vehicle Motor vehicle

Tire Vehicle Wheel Motor vehicle Publication
 
#601 ·
That's awesome, congrats on getting published! It amazes me that 20 years later, the leather community is finally starting to embrace the idea. I sold my F several years ago and have been on the hunt recently for another to build a turbo setup for.
 
#603 ·
Let me ask a question - you guys are aware of the fact that there are two hardness levels for Revo straight cut second gear sets available, correct ? One for street use one for drag racing/hard high power launch use ? Who's gears and what hardness level are you running that are pitting on your High Power Mad Scientist Revo engine builds ?
 
#604 ·
Who's gears and what hardness level are you running that are pitting on your High Power Mad Scientist Revo engine builds ?
Mine is non Destroyer version from V&H ten years ago. I noticed the pitting started in 1000-2000km. Now I have to replace them, driven 10.000km on street.
 
#605 ·
I'm not sure if V & H made their own straight cut second gear sets or had a vendor like Robinson Industries, Inc. 644 Middle Country Road Suite 10, St James, NY 11780-3231 make them - I learned from Bill Robinson that they make soft and hardened 2nd straight cut gearsets for the Revo, soft for short duration drag racing & hard launches which absorb the higher sudden stress better and don't crack which may be what you have. Hardened for longer mileage street ridden bikes that resist pitting and spalling for a much longer time which is what I ordered. You may want to contact him I'll look for the phone number, but guys like Vreeland's and Fitzgerald's may already sell his gearsets and you just have to ask for a street hardened set, or not at your high power levels and possible racing applications as that may lock you into the soft gearsets that wear out. He would be the man to ask though, he's a real helpful nice guy to speak with and order gearsets from. (y):cool:
 
#606 ·
I forgot that they made 2 versions. What is the "street" version made of? I ask as the solution usually is a high grade billet replacement (which once again I know where you can get such a masterpiece made). My fear however is you might need to replace ALL the gears if you go to strong a 2nd gear......time and money.....
 
#607 ·
freudie1 & Karzza - so I just spent 30 minutes looking thru all my 3 ring binders for the gear material research and just couldn't find it - in any event I'm going off memory and saying the gear material may be the same ( or different ) but I do know that heat treatment is required for the street set at least, he builds up a minimum order then sends a batch to the heat treater, as I waited a while for mine. I'm thinking nitriding or case hardening for the meshing surface of the gears at a minimum, they have that black look like tool steel. In any event contact Bill Robinson directly for the latest straight info at sales@robinsonindustriesinc.com or 631-360-9219 he's an absolute M/C transmission Guru with Revo & Destroyer sets, Hayabusa and other metric trick gear sets with different ratios, shafts, auto shifting without air shifters, gear micropolishing etc. (y):cool: P.S. No, you shouldn't have to replace all the gears just the 2nd gearset all the other gears seem to handle it - at least for mortal engine builders below 150 Hp like myself - you 300 Hp + guys are on your own !! (y):cool:
 
#610 ·
mukle - good to know that the street version holds up, even under high Hp & Tq conditions. But how long and I wonder what the dividing line is to decide which one to run ? I'm thinking dedicated drag bike would of course be race version gearset with constant hard launches & quick loading / shifting but low mileage use - but lots of drag bikes don't have anywhere near 300 Hp like you guys' street / strip engines so should you run the softer race version to avoid cracking & breaking the gears and then worry about gear teeth pitting ? If the street gears hold up for your high Hp / Tq then how long in service before cracks develop ? Mandatory replacement schedule or magnaflux to check for cracks developing at engine teardown ? Seems the case hardening of either race or strip gearsets would equally resist wear and pitting but maybe the flexibility of the race gearset contributes to eventual breakdown of the case hardening where the street gearset resists that but eventually cracks and fails from cyclic fatigue of the harder gear base metal. Just thinking out loud here for you guys, I'm good with the street set but I've got 1/2 your power output. (y):cool:
 
#611 ·
Did order the new street-gears from Bill. Actually I’m his regular customer since having Robinson 4-speed auto full billet in Funnybike and ruining at least couple of tranny per season. He is very helpful person and for example advised me how to repair weld the dogs. Have also bought undercut milling blades from him.
Cameras & optics Camera accessory Camera lens Gas Audio equipment

Milling Machine tool Gas Machine Metal


Wheel Automotive tire Tire Bicycle part Rim
 
#612 ·
Very cool high tech stuff ! I saw all those metric bike trick tranny parts on his website - All in the cost of going extremely fast in a short distance !! Please post quick photo of your Mad Scientist of Speed Funnybike again here Karzza - unfortunately V Rod is relegated to only a pit bike for that full on race machine - :cool:
 
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