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1487cc Turbo 2nd Edition

154K views 701 replies 77 participants last post by  coastrider 
#1 ·
I decided to open a new topic to entertainment you with my 2nd edition engine build and
raise some useful discussion up about a Revolution pushed to it's limit in street use.
My target is 250rwhp@7500rpm 185 ft-lbs@5000rpm, but especially I'm trying to improve reliability, which has been the problem. I'm fustrated to open the engine every 3000km.

So, here we go....

CP Pistons are the old ones, driven 6000km. There are couple of scratches in a skirt because of flying bearing pieces in the engine. They are measured and polished to prevent carbon building to the top. Compression ratio is a mandatory in my case.

Has somebody seen somewhere forged pistons for 4.25" (12:1, 1/4" stroker offset pin)?

New piston rings and at this time end plays are adjusted smaller than previously.

1st 0.60mm
2nd 0.70mm
oil ring 0.35mm

Old K1 rods, new bolts. There are marks of flattened and spread pin bushings under pressure. Pin clearances are still okay, but too narrow or soft pin bushings will be a problem in the future. Better pushing material will be needed some day.





Wiseco cylinder liners are used ones. They are measured and re-honed to RA12 recarding CP's instruction for Ductile moly rings.






Falicon 3/8" stroker full circle crank. As I know there are two types of Falicon full circle ctranks in the market.
The other one is with an open rod pin and an other one with blugged rod pin, like mine. How are oil drillings when the rod pin is nod blugged. Does somebody know what is a backround for changes?
 
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#356 ·
If you want stronger spring I can arrange for that...
Your spring rate is very ok. I just suspect they are too fat with AIM lock-up. I will see it, when the engine will be open in the winter.
 
#358 ·
Was that dyno session done in 5th gear? Just wondering if itwould have helped to do it in 4th gear...
It does not effect to the clutch torgue what is a gear.
I prefer 5th, it is straight cut and near a case bearing.
 
#363 ·
Kaarza, Try the slipper clutch. The same ramps that force the plates apart ( to allow slip) during de-celeration work to press them together under torque. The more power you apply the less they can slip. This is why a) they use less spring pressure from the factory & b) drag racers don't particularly like them, they don't slip on take off. I believe you'll then need to address tire slip
 
#366 ·
I have tried a slipper with stock springs. it was a dream in 190rwhp set up but complety hopeless with 240rwhp.
 
#364 ·
I know Ray managed to toast a slipper clutch, so I have a feeling Karzza's beast will eat one easily.
 
#365 ·
Holy crap man, your bike is amazingggggg. What boost are you at with the 300HP mark?
 
#367 ·
This is one wild build! Love following this thread :)
 
#368 ·
me too! I always wondered if it would have been "easier" to do on a smaller bore motor. Like 1130 or 1250. Either way you are a pioneer in the vrod world!!!
 
#369 ·
Thanks Gentlemen.

As it is a street bike I appreciate reasonable torq at 2500-5000rpm,
- long stroke
- large volume
- high compression
- small valves and ports
- mild cams
- small A/R turbine
- etc

A race engine would be different story, 4.13" bore for sure, high rpm and a lot of cooled boost.
 
#370 ·
Hei,
not ment to be a smart azz..
MecTec who did my engine told me engines with Slipper clutch (-08 up)
would not handle more than approx 200 hp before they slip.
2002-07 with stronger springs & "better" plates + synthetic oil may handle 250 hp.
His words..
Knut
PS Kari; Thanks for Your informative posts!
 
#372 ·
Thanks!
The bike has been my great hobby several years and not going to count time or money I have spent with it.
 
#373 ·
That is starting to sound like a good strategy for me too...


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 
#374 ·
yep!

1487cc Turbo 3rd Edition is in the process....:D
 
#375 ·
I Would need a chromed bracket for HD bullet rear signals and a lisence plate in a stock location with 180 fender.
Any tips?
 
#378 ·
No no, since it is regulary used street bike I prefer CH3CH2OH.
A range of 14L fuel tank is 120 km :banghead:
E85 is all the time better availble here and cheap.
 
#379 ·
Hitted by three cold showers today while driving.
Got Pissed and teared all the sheet metal parts off.
Will separate the engine in two weeks and split it later.
The season is over here. Not much motivation at the moment :mad:
Someone willing to buy the bike?
 
#380 ·
#381 ·
Got a valve shim slip (post #329)
A clutch is slipping
Pistons are 10k driven etc.

Also willing to lower the front end, so need go back to a stock (height) oil pan.
 
#382 ·
If the season is over, that just means you can get started on the next iteration and keep inspiring the rest of us!! This is one of a very few threads that I've read start to finish more than one complete time!
 
#384 ·
#386 ·
No more shim drops!

How to connect the shim and retainer together, so that the shim can be "easily" changed while an valve adjustment?

Clue is not a choise.
The shim has to stay as un-modified.


I have been thinking a small groove in the retainer and a thin (0.6 mm) Viton O-ring.

An external metal snap spring could be possible as well.

Shim dia 10.0mm
Housing dia 10.3mm
Housing's wall is 1.5mm thick
 
#390 ·
Agreed with Your point, but while taking risks a "safety belt" is more needed.
It is the same than pinned main bearings.

I have got both of the shim drops while tuning the bike for new fuel type (VP109 and E85).
At the moment the bike is not back firing, but dont know what can happen if adding boost, rpm's or changing something else.
 
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