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Old 10-23-2012, 04:55 PM   #151
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*sigh* In my usual incompetent fashion, I can't get past step 2. When I push the odo reset button (with ignition off and run switch on), the mileage comes up but nothing else happens - no blinking. What am I doing wrong, please?
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Old 10-23-2012, 04:59 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Val View Post
*sigh* In my usual incompetent fashion, I can't get past step 2. When I push the odo reset button (with ignition off and run switch on), the mileage comes up but nothing else happens - no blinking. What am I doing wrong, please?
Turn on the ignition
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Old 10-23-2012, 05:07 PM   #153
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That did it, thanks. Current P 1354 Rear ignition coil open/low.
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:05 PM   #154
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Instructions for Reading Codes on Late Model Bikes

For newer bikes the instructions are as follows (this comes from page 2-1 of the 2010 EDM = electrical diagnostic manual, P/N 99499-10):

1. To enter diagnostic mode press and hold the trip odometer reset switch while turning the IGN ON.
2. Release the trip odometer reset switch. "diag" should appear on the odometer display.
3. Press and release the trip odometer reset switch. "PSCb" will appear on the odometer display.
4. PSCb indicates the different modules that could display codes if equipped.
• P - ECM codes
• S - TSM/TSSM/HFSM codes
• C - IM codes
• b - ABS codes
5. Quickly press and release the trip odometer reset switch to cycle through the letters. The letters will flash as they are selected.
6. Once the corresponding letter is flashing to the desired module press and hold the trip odometer reset switch.
7. If no DTCs are present the odometer will display "none".
8. If any DTCs are stored in the module either current or historic the odometer will display the DTC. Quickly pressing and releasing the trip odometer reset switch will cycle through the stored DTCs.
9. If odometer displays "no rsp" then the motorcycle may not be equipped with the module. If the motorcycle is equipped with the selected module then go to other modules and look for applicable communication codes.
10. When all the DTCs have been cycled the odometer will display "end".
11. To clear all the DTCs in that module press and hold the trip odometer reset switch. If DTCs are not to be cleared quickly press and release the trip odometer reset switch. The part number of the module will be displayed.
12. Press and release the trip odometer reset switch again to continue to the next module.
13. Turn the IGN OFF to exit diagnostic mode.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:36 AM   #155
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suggestions please.

Any help would be great.
Yesterday i gave my bike an oil change and a wash.
Now i have the tach light stay on while the bikes ignition is off and when the ignition is on the display says d i a g which tells me i've obviously gotten something wet that i shouldn't have.
I've followed the steps (exactly) to see if i could bring up some codes to diagnose the problem but with no success. all i see is d i a g
Has anyone else had this problem and/or know what i can do to fix this??
So far i have disconnected all plugs and looked for water in a plug but all i found was a little bit of water around the odometer reset button.

Cheers Paul
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Old 12-10-2012, 06:32 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2XITE View Post
...
.....
.....
Has anyone else had this problem and/or know what i can do to fix this? ....
You've shorted out the odometer reset switch with moisture. This has happened to many owners that aren't careful with the water spray when washing the bike.

You need to dry out the gauge cluster especially the reset switch. This is best done by removing the instrument cluster from the housing. On a VRSCDX follow these steps:
  1. Remove MAXI fuse (under upper right side cover)
  2. Remove upper fastener at back of cluster
  3. Rotate cluster down and remove harness connector (squeeze two release tabs together)
  4. Remove hinge fastener and then slide cluster off hinge peg
  5. Remove 4 fasteners at rear of housing and separate front bezel and housing from cluster
  6. Air dry cluster or use some electronics parts cleaner
  7. To assemble cluster reverse steps. Torque values:
4 rear fasteners: 1.3 to 1.9 Nm = 12 to 16 in•lbs
Hinge and upper fasteners: 2.2 to 2.8 Nm = 20 to 24 in•lbs
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:34 AM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever975 View Post
You've shorted out the odometer reset switch with moisture. This has happened to many owners that aren't careful with the water spray when washing the bike.

You need to dry out the gauge cluster especially the reset switch. This is best done by removing the instrument cluster from the housing. On a VRSCDX follow these steps:
  1. Remove MAXI fuse (under upper right side cover)
  2. Remove upper fastener at back of cluster
  3. Rotate cluster down and remove harness connector (squeeze two release tabs together)
  4. Remove hinge fastener and then slide cluster off hinge peg
  5. Remove 4 fasteners at rear of housing and separate front bezel and housing from cluster
  6. Air dry cluster or use some electronics parts cleaner
  7. To assemble cluster reverse steps. Torque values:
4 rear fasteners: 1.3 to 1.9 Nm = 12 to 16 in•lbs
Hinge and upper fasteners: 2.2 to 2.8 Nm = 20 to 24 in•lbs
You have been very helpful thank you.
i've managed to bring a few codes up and the display doesn't say diag any more but the tach light is still on but really dim so a bit more drying is required.
the codes that came up are as follows.
pn69976-08
pn67308-09
b1004
b1005
b1008
c1094
c1095
c1216
are any of these critical or something that has happened since unplugging everything??

Cheers Paul
__________________
VRSCDX 2011
V&H Indy exhaust.
SEPRT.
SE performance filter.
A model headlight conversion.
Custom seat.
Legend air suspension with bar mount gauge.
Rizoma bars.
Rizoma L.E.D signals.
Rizoma license plate bracket.
Rizoma senso mirrors.
Spike grips pegs and axle covers
Skull derby cover and skull swing arm covers.
Fork tube covers.
powder coated controls.
Killer Glass.
Cult Werks front fender.
SR airbox cover.
Custom paint.
Galfer wave rotors.
F wheels powder coated.
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Old 12-11-2012, 06:22 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2XITE View Post
You have been very helpful thank you.
i've managed to bring a few codes up and the display doesn't say diag any more but the tach light is still on but really dim so a bit more drying is required.
the codes that came up are as follows.
pn69976-08
pn67308-09
b1004
b1005
b1008
c1094
c1095
c1216
are any of these critical or something that has happened since unplugging everything? ...
First, all DTCs have 5 digits, a letter prefix followed by 4 numbers. The first two items in your list aren't DTCs. Those are the part numbers for your IM (instrument module) and HFSM (hands free security module) respectively.

The other six items are DTCs. The ones that have a "b" prefix were stored in/by the IM and the ones with the "c" prefix were stored in/by the ABS ECU (electrical control unit). A link to a list of the newer DTCs is in Post # 144.

b1004 = fuel sender low (voltage to circuit was low)
b1005 = fuel sender open/high (voltage to circuit is high)
b1008 = trip odometer switch closed
c1094 = front brake switch always on
c1095 = front brake switch open
c1216 = rear brake switch open

The first two were probably set when the IM was being unplugged. The third one is the one that's causing your problems. The last three are likely due to unplugged modules in the ABS brake light circuit.

All these DTCs should be cleared (see step 11 in Post # 154) after everything is plugged back in to make sure these aren't active codes.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:08 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever975 View Post
First, all DTCs have 5 digits, a letter prefix followed by 4 numbers. The first two items in your list aren't DTCs. Those are the part numbers for your IM (instrument module) and HFSM (hands free security module) respectively.

The other six items are DTCs. The ones that have a "b" prefix were stored in/by the IM and the ones with the "c" prefix were stored in/by the ABS ECU (electrical control unit). A link to a list of the newer DTCs is in Post # 144.

b1004 = fuel sender low (voltage to circuit was low)
b1005 = fuel sender open/high (voltage to circuit is high)
b1008 = trip odometer switch closed
c1094 = front brake switch always on
c1095 = front brake switch open
c1216 = rear brake switch open

The first two were probably set when the IM was being unplugged. The third one is the one that's causing your problems. The last three are likely due to unplugged modules in the ABS brake light circuit.

All these DTCs should be cleared (see step 11 in Post # 154) after everything is plugged back in to make sure these aren't active codes.
Thanks for taking the time to help me resolve my issues.
After all codes were cleared and the bike started and codes checked again i end up with just 2 that wont clear.
c1094 and c1216 Front & rear brake switches open.
I have no idea how to resolve these issues so if you have any suggestions im more than happy to hear them.
Also my tach light still lights up without ignition on. No matter how much i dry it even with the hair dryer.
Maybe i need a new gauge cluster??

Cheers Paul.
__________________
VRSCDX 2011
V&H Indy exhaust.
SEPRT.
SE performance filter.
A model headlight conversion.
Custom seat.
Legend air suspension with bar mount gauge.
Rizoma bars.
Rizoma L.E.D signals.
Rizoma license plate bracket.
Rizoma senso mirrors.
Spike grips pegs and axle covers
Skull derby cover and skull swing arm covers.
Fork tube covers.
powder coated controls.
Killer Glass.
Cult Werks front fender.
SR airbox cover.
Custom paint.
Galfer wave rotors.
F wheels powder coated.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:44 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2XITE View Post
Thanks for taking the time to help me resolve my issues.
After all codes were cleared and the bike started and codes checked again i end up with just 2 that wont clear.
c1094 and c1216 Front & rear brake switches open.
I have no idea how to resolve these issues so if you have any suggestions im more than happy to hear them.
Also my tach light still lights up without ignition on. No matter how much i dry it even with the hair dryer.
Maybe i need a new gauge cluster? ...
The c1094 (front brake switch always on) means that the your front brake switch is stuck on. This can be caused by a bad or out of position switch, a short in the switch wiring, or a bad ABS ECU.

The c1216 (rear brake switch open) means that the rear brake switch signal is disconnected. This can happen if the rear brake switch is bad, the rear brake switch wiring is bad, and if the brake light bulb is burned out (the last one isn’t likely though because this would set a c1095 DTC).

Your tach light being on with the ignition off indicates internal shorts in the IM and may require dismantling this (not impossible but also not trivial) or getting a new one.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:58 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever975 View Post
The c1094 (front brake switch always on) means that the your front brake switch is stuck on. This can be caused by a bad or out of position switch, a short in the switch wiring, or a bad ABS ECU.

The c1216 (rear brake switch open) means that the rear brake switch signal is disconnected. This can happen if the rear brake switch is bad, the rear brake switch wiring is bad, and if the brake light bulb is burned out (the last one isn’t likely though because this would set a c1095 DTC).

Your tach light being on with the ignition off indicates internal shorts in the IM and may require dismantling this (not impossible but also not trivial) or getting a new one.
All DTC's are gone now thanks to you.
I had a bad connection to my rear brake light once i fixed this i cleared the codes and the aren't coming back.
Thank again for your help!
__________________
VRSCDX 2011
V&H Indy exhaust.
SEPRT.
SE performance filter.
A model headlight conversion.
Custom seat.
Legend air suspension with bar mount gauge.
Rizoma bars.
Rizoma L.E.D signals.
Rizoma license plate bracket.
Rizoma senso mirrors.
Spike grips pegs and axle covers
Skull derby cover and skull swing arm covers.
Fork tube covers.
powder coated controls.
Killer Glass.
Cult Werks front fender.
SR airbox cover.
Custom paint.
Galfer wave rotors.
F wheels powder coated.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:30 PM   #162
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Awesome info guys, thanks!
Just put on my pc3 and did the topless and temp relocation mod and had some CEL issues, this fixed me right up! Didn't even know you could run a check like that, loving it.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:38 AM   #163
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Reading codes

Should I be getting a "no response" when checking the "b" codes?
The run switch WAS on when I got the message.


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Old 02-08-2013, 08:12 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LNGRO View Post
Should I be getting a "no response" when checking the "b" codes?
The run switch WAS on when I got the message....
If by "b" codes you mean those from the ABS module, or the last set in the sequence:
P = powertrain or ECM codes (codes start with the letter "P" = Powertrain or "U" = undefined)
S = security or TSSM codes (codes start with the letter "B" = Body)
C = cluster or IM codes (codes start with the letter "B" = Body)
b = brakes or ABS codes (codes start with the letter "C" = Chassis)
Then, if you don't have ABS, the odometer will display "no rsp".
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:19 AM   #165
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Reading codes

Quote:
Originally Posted by stever975 View Post
If by "b" codes you mean those from the ABS module, or the last set in the sequence:
P = powertrain or ECM codes (codes start with the letter "P" = Powertrain or "U" = undefined)
S = security or TSSM codes (codes start with the letter "B" = Body)
C = cluster or IM codes (codes start with the letter "B" = Body)
b = brakes or ABS codes (codes start with the letter "C" = Chassis)
Then, if you don't have ABS, the odometer will display "no rsp".
Ok cool. I don't have ABS so that message is supposed to occur. I can't figure out why my speedometer won't work.


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