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Old 12-10-2012, 06:51 PM   #46
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Watching this one. 2013 should be a good year for boost!
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:48 PM   #47
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joe,
I am hoping Sprintex steps up to the plate and answers my Questions.

I called them tonight and left message!!!!!
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Old 12-10-2012, 11:56 PM   #48
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Hope u left questions at the USA dept .the Australian one is as slack as shit getting back to you.on anything.freaking western Australians .getter
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:04 AM   #49
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Pete, I think I would leave it alone and enjoy that 1402.

Wait till something is proven.


Still waiting to hear for AU...
Rod

I have no plans to be a beta tester! Once I see which SC is showing reliability, I think I know what needs to be done in order to build a motor that won't come apart or seize as long as boost is kept within some reasonable limits and there's plenty of fuel to keep things cool.
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:57 AM   #50
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I'm tossing this idea around, just not sure which SC I'd want to put on just yet...

Yes, this will be on a 1402 motor, but I have some other plans for it to help keep it together. I'd have to change the cams, probably re-work the heads (again - long story there aye Scott?), move to a higher flow fuel pump, look at the fuel rail capacity, and change to a 30 tooth pulley along with a stronger clutch, and possibly the Trask output shaft side brace (if they are even making them???).

I would probably also start conservative with the boost and try to find a happy "180HP+" spot to settle into...
I'm already frying a 250 tire without much effort, I'm just thinking this could expand the "fun zone" a little more... Heh.

Overall, the project sounds pretty simple
I think you should definitely go for it If it holds together for a few thousand miles I will be right behind you....
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:48 PM   #51
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Update:

Just spoke to my contact and was informed they where out of country.

A new e-mail was sent. Thanks to my contact for taking the time and going the extra mile to help us here on the forum.

To all of you that are interested and the ones that pm me.
This tread is being watched by them.

So then, If you have any question or questions ask.
Post up so they they can see.

1 New stock or old stock
2 Bearing new style or old style
3 What are the differences
4 What was done to get the new style into unit.
5 How much heat is produced
6 Updates with ecm set up
7 Warranty, what is covered and what is not This is the big one.
8 How long is ithe warranty
9 Are the install instruction updated
10 Anything we should know that has been changed

Thanks
rod
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:54 PM   #52
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Please keep this a clean thread.
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Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion!
You're merely over-educated beyond your ability to think!

Malcomx" It turns out that the truth is pretty good protection."

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Old 12-11-2012, 06:13 PM   #53
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I11. What cams would work best ..close lap or large like stage 2s.

12. Will it run with a Daytona twin tech tuner with auto tune.

13 would 58 tbs be able to be used or just stock 53s
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Old 12-11-2012, 10:42 PM   #54
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Cool

whats the best tuner to use if not supplied with unit?
do they have a base map? i think they should have this isnt new..

hope all that you are going through to get this SC going works out for everyone thanks for doing the the grunt work.
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:54 AM   #55
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I11. What cams would work best ..close lap or large like stage 2s.

12. Will it run with a Daytona twin tech tuner with auto tune.

13 would 58 tbs be able to be used or just stock 53s
11. Close overlap just like the turbos
13. Look at the link provided. No TB's. You have to put your TB parts onto the the S/C.
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Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion!
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:03 AM   #56
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so then the answer would be ,stock 53 butterflys ,lol,,but damn on the cams ,i was sure on sc engines big cams were good ,
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:08 AM   #57
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so then the answer would be ,stock 53 butterflys ,lol,,but damn on the cams ,i was sure on sc engines big cams were good ,
With S/C it is important to get the heat out!!!!!
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2003 turbo

2012 Ultra Classic

Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion!
You're merely over-educated beyond your ability to think!

Malcomx" It turns out that the truth is pretty good protection."

V-rod mechanics 101:
http://www.youtube.com/user/rscrod

The opinions expressed here are solely those of the original author. These opinions do not represent those of KSI-LLC.com / Killer Service and Innovations, LLC
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:07 AM   #58
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Slow and steady is my only recommendation this needs to be done correctly the first time not the third. Building a bullet proof motor is key which will include head work, heat coatings, and engine bracing. I am interested in working with Rod to insure these items are addressed to insure longevity.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:20 AM   #59
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if we can figure out the equation to in 170ish at the wheel and like scott said it's still be bullet proof, i'm in.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:32 AM   #60
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if we can figure out the equation to in 170ish at the wheel and like scott said it's still be bullet proof, i'm in.
It all depends on how far ppl are willing to go for bullet proofing? 170-180hp I don't see much of a problem at all especially if your willing to do a teardown and ceramic coat everything possible along with pistons for boosted application.

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