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Old 12-11-2012, 12:30 PM   #16
rlascano
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my case is very similar. i have a vrod muscle 2012 and has about 2800 miles already. bought it about 4-5 months ago and i use it to go back n forth from work. ( rush hour ) so i am on an hour of stop and go kind of deal. the light on the indicator cluster comes up and once i gain some speed it turns off . i took it to the dealer, they said " unable to recreate the problem" i dont know what else to do , its under warranty but cant pintpoint what the problem is. Also. the same took place before my 1k oil change and this overheating never took place. this is very weird.
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:36 PM   #17
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bump bump
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:53 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlascano View Post
bump bump
Why the bump, the solution is get another dealer to take a serious look at the triple sprocket bolt which can ONLY be checked by pulling the left engine cover.
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:25 PM   #19
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HD knows about it and doesn't care enough to put out A TSB or PDI,I hate them for it

You will have to be very adamant about pulling the cover and getting it checked.Don't leave until you see it with your own eyes.I told the dealer to check the bolt on mine and they called back an hour later to tell me the exhaust and oil pump had tpo be pulled and checked as there was only 35 psi at 3000 rpm

After losing my mind and flipping out over the phone at the fact they ran the bike without spending 15 minutes to pull the cover and look as I had told them to do.I informed them that I was on my way and the cover had better be off for me to see for myself and of course the bolt had backed out and chewed the shit out of the case bushings.Most dealers don't know about this (see the title)

I would look up the video MAX made and and do it myself.It really only takes 15 minutes to do and is super easy.If you have the ability.if it is lose check the oil for brass shavings.BRASS=CASE BUSHINGS.So have your oil pressure checked after.

ACCORDING TO MEMORY YOU MUST HAVE
----30psi at idle
----42 at 3000rpm
MOST HAVE
----50-60psi at idle
----60-70 psi at 3000rpm

Here did the search for you,it's that important.
DO NOT RUN THE BIKE UNTIL THE BOLT IS CHECKED.
Good luck

Max's video

http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108910

More information
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/gtsearc...cc.com%2F&ref=
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:22 PM   #20
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So this past Thursday i got home and the temperature light turned on. i got off the bike to take a picture and take it to the dealer, the machine in a matter of seconds started leaking coolant and fumes came out. i recorded the whole thing and took it to the dealer next morning. Its Tuesday and they still have not called to advise what is going on. The service adviser stated it might be the radiator ( i doubt it ) but this is the 3rd time i take it i for a fan related or overheating issue. i will follow protocol and wont stop until my motorcycle is fixed ,,, PS i told them to check the waterpump and its torque to make sure its not that ( who knows if they will / wont do it )
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:48 PM   #21
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Help, Overheating

After 4 trips to the dealer , a fan assembly took place The vrod is not heating up anymore n i am pleased about it.


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Old 09-15-2015, 12:59 AM   #22
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triple sproket bolt location??

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
THANKS!! I checked and the bolt had fallen out. My only concern at this point is did the loss of oil pressure cause any engine damage? I have about one week left on my 30 day warranty. I never got an oil pressure light.
Hi
I have a 06 VRSCR and i love it although i am now having some hot running issues that cause fuel delivery problems at partial throttle and low RPM. From your posts and lots other seems like this bolt must be loose or out.

I am looking at the manual but i am not sure exactl what bolt they are referring too. \What exactly do i have to remove to get to it, if you dont minding helping a brother vrod rider out?

thanks
Will
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:47 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willytspeed View Post
Hi
I have a 06 VRSCR and i love it although i am now having some hot running issues that cause fuel delivery problems at partial throttle and low RPM. From your posts and lots other seems like this bolt must be loose or out.

I am looking at the manual but i am not sure exactl what bolt they are referring too. \What exactly do i have to remove to get to it, if you dont minding helping a brother vrod rider out?

thanks
Will
Unless your bike has less than 3,000 miles, the issue I had is most likely not your problem. With the loose bolt you will get a hot light regardless of rpm.

Happy to help you through your problem, but need to ask some questions.

Are you getting an overheat light, or does it just seem hot?
How many miles on your bike?
Has you coolant tank been run low, or have you been into the cooling system. If so, have you purged all air from the system?
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Old 09-15-2015, 04:18 PM   #24
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I have a little over 12k miles and no I don't get the overheat light. It just seems hot, of course new pipe does not have anywhere near the amount of heat shield the stock pipe. I installed a water temp gage putting the temp sensor in airbleed hole. But I was having the fuelING issue prior to gage install. I did just change the coolant and tried to make sure the was no air. The coolant tank level never moved prior to or post coolant change so pretty sure there is no air. So you don't think it's worth taking off side cover to check bolt? I would agree with you that if it fell out it would overheat to point of turning light on. Pretty sure cooling system is ok but why does it run horrible when it's hot. Didn't have the issue when bone stock
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:11 AM   #25
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I think it's more of a tuning issue Willytspeed..
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:39 PM   #26
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What is your water temp gauge showing for temperature?
Is the coolant level in the overflow tank staying within the "cold/hot" lines or is any leaking out?
When you installed the new pipes did you have it re-tuned or installed a after market tuner of some sort?
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:42 PM   #27
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RustyG, coolant temp gets up to 180 pretty quick then stays there for awhile while in town, once out on highway Temps stay below 190 but once back it town Temps climb over 200 and it starts to run bad, will get as high as 220, but fan is already on. Then it holds steady around 210 and runs horrible at partial throttle low rpm. If I get back out on highway it runs fine and cools down a little.
I have k&n airfilter, put the pipe on and a V&H Fuelpak to tune the fuel injection. Have tried a few different "maps" and even customized existing maps per V&H techs but still have the issue once over 200 degrees F.
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:43 PM   #28
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Coolant level stays steady in the tank with none dripping out
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:03 PM   #29
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That is normal.operating temps..something else is your issue
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Old 09-16-2015, 08:20 PM   #30
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When did this start happening? after your exhaust install or after other MODs?
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