Watching this one. 2013 should be a good year for boost!
__________________ TRAVELER: 2006 Roadrod VRSCR, Custom painted Ultrawhite, TTS Supercharger version2.0, TMAX, K&N, Supertrapp V5 exhaust, Pondo Caps, HC Stage II V LED tailight, "A" model bars, Corbin seat, luggage rack, Sumax bags, chrome peg mounts, '08 "D" wheels, polished, rear pulley by Pondo. Slipper clutch. More to come! Old Dyno results: 155 HP 86#TQ COMET: 2009 AW, painted ultrawhite, a work in progress....105.18 HP, 73.98 torque;
Pete, I think I would leave it alone and enjoy that 1402.
Wait till something is proven.
Still waiting to hear for AU...
I have no plans to be a beta tester! Once I see which SC is showing reliability, I think I know what needs to be done in order to build a motor that won't come apart or seize as long as boost is kept within some reasonable limits and there's plenty of fuel to keep things cool.
I'm tossing this idea around, just not sure which SC I'd want to put on just yet...
Yes, this will be on a 1402 motor, but I have some other plans for it to help keep it together. I'd have to change the cams, probably re-work the heads (again - long story there aye Scott?), move to a higher flow fuel pump, look at the fuel rail capacity, and change to a 30 tooth pulley along with a stronger clutch, and possibly the Trask output shaft side brace (if they are even making them???).
I would probably also start conservative with the boost and try to find a happy "180HP+" spot to settle into...
I'm already frying a 250 tire without much effort, I'm just thinking this could expand the "fun zone" a little more... Heh.
Overall, the project sounds pretty simple
I think you should definitely go for it If it holds together for a few thousand miles I will be right behind you....
__________________ 08 DX - 1402 Stroker (3/8" Falicon Full Circle Crank, K1 Rods, CP Pistons, 10mm ARP Studs, HD SE II Cams, Destroyer Injectors, V&H 2nd Gear+Shift Shaft, Motohooligan Airbox, Trask Output Shaft Support, Fitzgerald: Head Port/Polish/+1mm Valves+Springs, 58mm TBs, Engine Brace, Billet Chrome Oil Pan, 26t Pulley)
Just spoke to my contact and was informed they where out of country.
A new e-mail was sent. Thanks to my contact for taking the time and going the extra mile to help us here on the forum.
To all of you that are interested and the ones that pm me. This tread is being watched by them.
So then, If you have any question or questions ask.
Post up so they they can see.
1 New stock or old stock
2 Bearing new style or old style
3 What are the differences
4 What was done to get the new style into unit.
5 How much heat is produced
6 Updates with ecm set up
7 Warranty, what is covered and what is not This is the big one.
8 How long is ithe warranty
9 Are the install instruction updated
10 Anything we should know that has been changed
2012 Ultra Classic
Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion!
You're merely over-educated beyond your ability to think!
Malcomx" It turns out that the truth is pretty good protection."
Slow and steady is my only recommendation this needs to be done correctly the first time not the third. Building a bullet proof motor is key which will include head work, heat coatings, and engine bracing. I am interested in working with Rod to insure these items are addressed to insure longevity.
D.A. FITZGERALD CO., INC. / FITZGERALD MOTORSPORTS Your one stop performance VRod shop!
if we can figure out the equation to in 170ish at the wheel and like scott said it's still be bullet proof, i'm in.
It all depends on how far ppl are willing to go for bullet proofing? 170-180hp I don't see much of a problem at all especially if your willing to do a teardown and ceramic coat everything possible along with pistons for boosted application.