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Old 09-19-2012, 07:19 AM   #46
mikeinatlanta
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Use a crowfoot wrench to torque without removing mufflers. As long as you set it at 90 degrees to the torque wrench you torque will be accurate.

$8.00 at tool barn


If you need more reach, you can make one of these. Just make sure you have the torque wrench at exactly 90 degrees to not affect torque.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:22 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Cheatin View Post
Sho nuff! Straight from the pages of eyeball engineering! Who the hell carries their belt measurment dildo with them when you think to check shit at the gas station? It may or may not be exact, but so far so good 10 years and counting...
The belt tension tool is in my Cruz tool kit next to the tire plug kit. I never take a bike out of the garage without minimum tools and something to plug a puncture with. Ever.
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Old 09-19-2012, 11:26 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by blubyubusa View Post
I recently purchased a thirteen hundred mile 12 Dyna (FXDC) and quickly noticed the belt tension was TIGHT by my standards. Did not like the bike (too slow) but did loosen the belt. Will keep the vrod and sell the dyna. I to like the twist method.
If you can twist the belt 90 degrees it is much too loose. The specified 8mm free play is 21/64 of an inch. That's tight, and that is how belts are supposed to be run. If you have the correct tension there is no way you are twisting the belt 90 degrees.
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:31 AM   #49
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I think the issue here seems to be that you guys who are having the slipping problem are setting the tension on a loose axle. (just a guess) I set mine without a tension tool but I have a little cheat for that which I will explain at the end. When setting the tension try first..

1. slightly turn the axle to snug the cams against the swingarm
2. tighten the axle nut to 10 lbs torque
3. use a small ball peen hammer and lightly tap directly on the end of the axle shaft (not the nut end)
4. re torque the axle nut to 10 lbs
5. set the tension with the cams by using the cams on the axle. The cams wont want to turn but if you use a brass bar as a driver/punch and a mall hammer it will rotate. If it doesnt want to turn with light tapping then back the axle nut off just a slight amount. (not loose)
6. once tension is set torque the axle nut to 150 or what your manual says.
7. tap lightly on the end of the axle again
8. recheck the torque

Done. Now for my 10# tool cheat.
1. Go to your bathroom and get your scale. (that would be the thing that your gf/wife hates the most but cant live without)
2. Prop it up under your belt so that you can WEDGE a screw driver from the center of the scale to the belt in increments to check the lbs on the dial.

I know its not going to be super accurate but its gonna be DAMN close. Have a great day.

Oh and if you need a service manual SUPER cheap send me a PM
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Old 12-06-2012, 06:06 AM   #50
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Thanks Rusty! I think I kind of overdid the anti-seize as it mixed with some remaining wheel bearing grease remaiing in the axle bore of the wheel; after an 80 mile run yesterday, the adjuster had rotated about 1/4" to the "loose" and there was a little stream of grayish-black sludge oozing out on my new chromed pulley.

So this time, I pulled the axle mostly out (leaving the pulley still supported and cleaned off the axle with a clean rag, re-inserted axle and repeat the pull and clean, then re-assembled and added the locktite to the adjuster flats again.

On the torque side, the wrenches I'm using can be described as BFW's (nearly 18" long); so I'm really more concerned about over-torqueing the thing. When the adjuster loosens, the axle nut is still tight as hades, so that's what led me to cleaning and locktiting things that shouldn't really need that attention.

However, I'm still open to mo betta approaches by my esteemed colleagues here on the forum...
Just wanted to update this thread with the what appears to have been the real reason my axle nut will tighten but not hold adjusters in place. The new pulley, an early model Performance Machine Roulette I bought from another member, does indeed require special spacers for the Rod despite what he told me; in the case of an R model, they are:

Inner spacer #0011-1406MG $20.00
Outer spacer #0012-0621MM $19.00
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