out of curiosity ,mr buddiee ,just so we know whether to listen to a wise man or not ,have u had vrods and built motors for them or hung out on the forum long before u joined up here ,not dissing you at all ,but too much advice from unknowledgble people,that bring their exsperiances from other style and types of motors ,often just confuse or misinform the person thats asking ,thats the only reason im asking cos ur join date says rather recently ,which doesnt mean u know jack shit ,and thats why im asking ,to clarify ,
That was really difficult to read. Yes I am new to the vrod community, had sport bikes most my life. I did lurk here for awhile before joining. I wanted to shift from sport bikes to a cruiser and debating between a vrod and hammer.
I am an aerospace design engineer by trade and car/bike enthusiast by hobby. I have built a procharged ws6, procharged c6, supercharged rsx with nitrous, ls1 sandrail, supercharged g35, supercharged g37, twin turbo vr4, r1 with nitorus, and many many dirt bikes. I also helped design the tim fireball twin charged with nitrous mini cooper dragster. http://www.seriouswheels.com/cars/20...g-Dragster.htm
Not saying I am right in this discussion, just stating what info I have gathered from the results of my build.
This combo is about same cost as Wiseco but won't come apart. Wiseco piston is not noted to be the best.
Advanced may be able to bore your case, but they do not list it either. Any good machine shop should be able to bore your case. I'd go to a top end commercial machine shop - not an automotive shop. Not saying the automotive shop can't do it but this takes something other than a portable boring bar I believe.
I had an 07 and was going to do what you did and traded up to an 08 with the 4-1/8" bore intending to stroke as it was suppose to be the same money. It was not in reality.
I do not know if CP pistons are heavier than stock, but the pretty much have to be so you'll need to balance. If you take your stock components to a high end automotive shop they can back calculate the balance factor from your stock parts and rebalance to your new parts. Way cheaper than going to some "high end" motorcycle crank company - it is ridiculous what they charge to balance - hideous charge. Typical balance should be $250 max plus heavy metal.
My welded crank was rejected the first time around and we'll see what it looks like the next time. Fundmentally the chrome moly steel these cranks are made of with ~0.04% carbon should not be welded, although with sufficient preheat they should be OK. THe problem I have with it is the heat affected zone of the weld is right where the highest stresses are - not good! THe stock crank is induction hardened like most diesels, but this puts the transition zone from hardened to non-hardened out in the throw of the crank instead of right at the cheek from the throw to the crank pin. I am going to run a material analysis on the weld metal when it comes back just to see what they use for curiousities sake. I'd love to do hardness checks but portable hardness checks are notoriously poor at times.
One thing that is generally always true - a given head will flow more into a bigger bore due to less valve shrouding. That being said the 4.25" bore is better for flow, but the stroker with 1250 bore will be a better torque producer down where you ride the most so that is an advantage and is why I went the route I did, plus you gain 39 cc. If you don't do headwork you are leaving a lot on the table, although I've yet to see anyone post the flow numbers on the stock heads vs. ported ones with bigger valves - so just how much more flow are you getting? I guess the proof is in the HP produced.
Be warned about the Wiseco piston option on the bigger 4.25 bore, there's a few of us caught out by this particular piston design cracking on the skirts. It'll only deliver you a big sad face sooner or later
I'm in the process of rebuilding mine, with the much improved CP piston option. Dyno sheets from Tilleys NC had us at 147bhp with this 1318cc setup, which appears to be the upper end from what I've seen posted here.
Was tempted to stroke it this time round with a 6mm crank, K1 rods, and either Destroyer or Elvis injectors but with an untimely rebuild (i.e. limited $$) have chosen not to venture into the unknown i.e. retuning the Screaming Eagle Race Tuner (probably would change to the Dynatech twin tech setup) and to be honest concerns about reliability long term.
At the end of the day, we all have our preference, more power is not always best (yes I said it) its how its delivered and more importantly you're preferred riding style, IMO. Personally I like my motors to rev quickly hence staying with the stock stroke and we're locking it down with ARP fasteners, pinning the bearings and throwing bottom end engine brace from Scott at Fitzgerald Motorsport (highly recommended vendor). I'd be happy with 150bhp, and once its back together, and run in, looking for a one-time appearance at the strip in the 9sec bracket.
__________________ '04 VRSCB ...yeah, its just a water-cooled Harley with a lumpy cam
More power, more pain!