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Old 12-04-2012, 09:25 AM   #16
josephthreedogs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe1985 View Post
so from what i understand here, leaving a stock stroke in 1130 motor but a 4.25 bore will give me 1318? correct? only machining being bores? heads also?
Correct, no head work required but advisable for best performance gains.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:10 AM   #17
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Easy, send your bike to Vreelands and tell them you want a 1320. Pick it up 2 months later. Done.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:10 AM   #18
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It's a waste to invest in bore/sleeves/pistons for a 1320 build and not do heads/valves/cams.

As a semi-valid comparison, 1300 motors with cams, 1mm oversize valves, 58MM TB, and bigger injectors produce more HP and comparable or better torque than a 1350 motor with light cams and no headwork.

Motor builds get expensive quickly, but you're leaving a lot on the table if you do just bore and/or stroke without addressing the breathing portion of the equation.
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'04 VSRCA
1300 'Baby Destroyer' Stroker
SE Heads, Jones Cams/Valves/Springs
Destroyer TB and Injectors
CP Pistons
Bub 7 2-1
Delphi/SERT, sometimes TSII for tuning
Lots of other bits and pieces
Coming soon:

'02 Sportster 883 Hugger
Inherited from dad
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:18 AM   #19
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I agree with Burke, they do get expensive really quick. And even when you think you've planned for everything there is always the little things that sneak up on you. If you are going to bore/stroke then you have to really address the intake, if you are going FI then obviously you don't need to worry about it as much.

Burke what do you put down with you 1300? Just for comparsion sake here for when I get my throttle bodies fixed and redynoed lol.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:28 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by sburke91 View Post
As a semi-valid comparison, 1300 motors with cams, 1mm oversize valves, 58MM TB, and bigger injectors produce more HP and comparable or better torque than a 1350 motor with light cams and no headwork.
No they dont.
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Old 12-04-2012, 04:42 PM   #21
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I have riden Sean bike.

I will tell you that it pulls like a frickin Train.

That front wheel comes up real fast.

He pulls about 135 + or - a couple.

He has a set of cams in there that is a special cut from Larry.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:32 PM   #22
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I dont doubt it, but he has an impressive mod list and quite a bit more than just some head work. I was just saying a big bore with mild head work will definatly make more power than a stock bore with lots of head work. Though the would probably be close. Also his mod list will cost more $$ than just doing a big bore.

I do agree with him entirely that it each will benefit from the other, really its best to do both if its in your budget.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:35 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by WhosUrBuddiee View Post
No they dont.
I have same day/same dyno numbers, on a very conservative dyno at MWT that say otherwise.
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'04 VSRCA
1300 'Baby Destroyer' Stroker
SE Heads, Jones Cams/Valves/Springs
Destroyer TB and Injectors
CP Pistons
Bub 7 2-1
Delphi/SERT, sometimes TSII for tuning
Lots of other bits and pieces
Coming soon:

'02 Sportster 883 Hugger
Inherited from dad
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:38 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Demthios View Post
Burke what do you put down with you 1300? Just for comparsion sake here for when I get my throttle bodies fixed and redynoed lol.
I've had everything from 128 (on the conservative dyno at MWT III) to 147 (at Eagle HD), but 138 and small change is what I have seen the most on multiple dynos.

Torque is high 80's to low 90's.

Some of the early 1350s with just light cams and no headwork are typically low 130's.

Well built 1350's with similar or better top-end work are usually 5-8 HP stronger than my bike.
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Sean Burke--Delaware OH
'04 VSRCA
1300 'Baby Destroyer' Stroker
SE Heads, Jones Cams/Valves/Springs
Destroyer TB and Injectors
CP Pistons
Bub 7 2-1
Delphi/SERT, sometimes TSII for tuning
Lots of other bits and pieces
Coming soon:

'02 Sportster 883 Hugger
Inherited from dad
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by WhosUrBuddiee View Post
I dont doubt it, but he has quite a bit more than just some head work. I was just saying a big bore with mild head work will definatly make more power than a stock bore with lots of head work. Though the would probably be close. Also his mod list will cost more $$ than just doing a big bore.

I do agree with him entirely that it each will benefit from the other, really its best to do both if its in your budget.
To clarify, I'm not saying that a BB with no work will produce less than a stock bore with extensive headwork, but once you start boring/stroking, the investment return on the top end modifications increases, the bigger you go.
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Sean Burke--Delaware OH
'04 VSRCA
1300 'Baby Destroyer' Stroker
SE Heads, Jones Cams/Valves/Springs
Destroyer TB and Injectors
CP Pistons
Bub 7 2-1
Delphi/SERT, sometimes TSII for tuning
Lots of other bits and pieces
Coming soon:

'02 Sportster 883 Hugger
Inherited from dad
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:59 PM   #26
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Yet to put mine on a dyno.must do it this summer.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sburke91 View Post
I have same day/same dyno numbers, on a very conservative dyno at MWT that say otherwise.
I have seen same dyno different setups and results were opposite. But either way it is pretty close.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:17 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by sburke91 View Post
To clarify, I'm not saying that a BB with no work will produce less than a stock bore with extensive headwork, but once you start boring/stroking, the investment return on the top end modifications increases, the bigger you go.
I agree. Both should be done, but if I had to go 1350 vs 1300 with lots of head work, I would say 1350 is better bang for buck. Though the 1300 would run lower temps probably, so that would be a definate positive.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:53 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by WhosUrBuddiee View Post
I agree. Both should be done, but if I had to go 1350 vs 1300 with lots of head work, I would say 1350 is better bang for buck. Though the 1300 would run lower temps probably, so that would be a definite positive.
If I had to do mine over again, I'd have a 6MM or 9MM crank in mine instead of the Destroyer crank.

That said, if I had the choice between a 1320 with light cams and little else, or a 1300/1350 with porting, oversize valves, and throttle bodies, I'd do the 1300/1350 all day long.

The 4.25 bore work, sleeves, and pistons aren't cheap, and for a daily rider, I'd rather have the extra water jacket space allotted by the smaller big bore.

If you're starting with a 1250, it's a no-brainier for a street bike, since no case boring is needed to just stroke.

If I ever get around to hooking up the nitrous this winter, we'll see if the 3MM crank decision paid off or not.
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Sean Burke--Delaware OH
'04 VSRCA
1300 'Baby Destroyer' Stroker
SE Heads, Jones Cams/Valves/Springs
Destroyer TB and Injectors
CP Pistons
Bub 7 2-1
Delphi/SERT, sometimes TSII for tuning
Lots of other bits and pieces
Coming soon:

'02 Sportster 883 Hugger
Inherited from dad
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:23 PM   #30
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I did a 4.25 bore on my 1250cc street bike, I have no brain

Still all the casework for a 4.25 is still much cheaper than a falicon stroker crank.
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