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Old 07-06-2012, 09:55 PM   #1
Barracuda1
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IAC Disassembly

I went to start the bike today and it would not start. Cranks over fine and if I open the throttle, it will try to run. As soon as I return the throttle to idle position, it dies. Last time I rode, I had no problems. The bike sits inside so moisture should not be the issue.
I suspected IAC motor. I pulled the air filter and cycled the ignition to observe pintle movement. I did not see any movement. I removed the IAC, after checking with the forum and the factory manuals. I did use a heat gun prior to removal of screws. After removing the IAC, I reconnected the connector and turned on the ignition. The IAC motor ran and the pintle was driven right off the motor.
Am I screwed? How can I ensure I reassemble the pintle with the motor correctly. I did not see anything in the manual about this.

Mike
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Old 07-06-2012, 11:10 PM   #2
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I had this happen to me a couple years ago when I was tinkering & experimenting with one.

Place the threaded screw on and hold in in place as the you cycle the run switch, it will go through an extension & contraction cycle, do it a couple of times (make sure to hold it & resist letting it unscrew all the way).

Eventually it will settle into place to its approximate resting position. You can try forcing it to seat deeper by pushing on the pintle and the motor will spin down.

Once you have it fully seated into the motor housing, reassemble onto the TB.

Then cycle the run switch and you should see normal movement.
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Old 07-06-2012, 11:13 PM   #3
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Thanks. I will try that in the morning.

Mike
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:59 PM   #4
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Taxman,
Things went just as the doctor ordered. The bike ran fine and I was able to riding with friends today. Thanks.

Mike
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:03 PM   #5
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So if I read this thread correctly there was an IAC malfunctioning, when looked at in the open it sprang apart, then instead of replacing with a new IAC it was simply 'reset' when reassembled and was able to go back into service? If I try to reassemble mine, it should stay together when I try to lightly pull the pin out and if it comes out easily it means the threads are stripped and IAC needs replacing???
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny HotFoot View Post
........when I try to lightly pull the pin out and if it comes out easily it means the threads are stripped and IAC needs replacing???

What we experienced was a generally functional unit that at worst was sticking a little, in the process of removing it to clean it I inadvertently caused it to unscrew by operating out side of the housing, OP did the same.


Sounds like you have a damaged unit, replace it!
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:27 AM   #7
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I think my IAC is okay... after getting it back together it does NOT just pull out so the threads are not stripped... it does function properly when I cycle the key, it only unscrews itself when I cycle the key while IAC is out of it's TB housing, when it's where it belongs it moves out then in with the key cycle.... am I 'good to go'? or is the IAC still defective as even though it moves it isn't moving in or out enough to allow the engine to idle properly? one way I can check (free too) is button her back up and run her, right?

I guess I'm now asking how precise is the IAC? does proper in/out movement suggest it's working properly or is there more to it?
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny HotFoot View Post
....
....
I guess I'm now asking how precise is the IAC? does proper in/out movement suggest it's working properly or is there more to it?
Maybe, but there are a few other things that need to be checked.

ECM idle control is a "hunting" action. If idle is not at the target idle speed (varies with measured coolant temperature dropping to 1200 or 1250 when warmed up), the ECM sends a signal to the IAC motor to either open a step (if idle is too low) or close a step (is idle is too high). The result is a constantly moving idle pintle with a constantly changing idle RPM, cycling slightly above and below (±200) the target idle speed.

If something is wrong (spark plugs, coils, air leaks, bad injectors, bad IAC motor, etc.) idle control will fail with the idle too high and the pintle fully closed or the idle too low and the pintle fully open. If this occurs the ECM will set a P0505 DTC = loss of idle speed control.

IOW, if you don't see a P0505 DTC then the IAC is working OK. If you do see a P0505 DTC then you need to check the bolded things above.

Another thing to note: the IAC motor only functions (and DTC P0505 is only relevant) when the throttle plates are closed (TPS < 1%), the VSS = 0 (bike not moving), and battery voltage ≥ 9 V.

Last edited by stever975; 11-19-2012 at 11:38 AM. Reason: added a little more info
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny HotFoot View Post
I think my IAC is okay... after getting it back together it does NOT just pull out so the threads are not stripped... it does function properly when I cycle the key, it only unscrews itself when I cycle the key while IAC is out of it's TB housing, when it's where it belongs it moves out then in with the key cycle.... am I 'good to go'? or is the IAC still defective as even though it moves it isn't moving in or out enough to allow the engine to idle properly? one way I can check (free too) is button her back up and run her, right?

I guess I'm now asking how precise is the IAC? does proper in/out movement suggest it's working properly or is there more to it?
When the iac closes, the ecm reads this as 0 steps. From there the ecm sets the steps for the iac for idle air. One step is one revolution of the motor. Threads can be all over the place as long as the range is there to set the steps. Personally, I would have replaced the damn thing since it gave trouble once. It might re occur.
Ron
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:53 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever975 View Post
Maybe, but there are a few other things that need to be checked.

ECM idle control is a "hunting" action. If idle is not at the target idle speed (varies with measured coolant temperature dropping to 1200 or 1250 when warmed up), the ECM sends a signal to the IAC motor to either open a step (if idle is too low) or close a step (is idle is too high). The result is a constantly moving idle pintle with a constantly changing idle RPM, cycling slightly above and below (±200) the target idle speed.

If something is wrong (spark plugs, coils, air leaks, bad injectors, bad IAC motor, etc.) idle control will fail with the idle too high and the pintle fully closed or the idle too low and the pintle fully open. If this occurs the ECM will set a P0505 DTC = loss of idle speed control.

IOW, if you don't see a P0505 DTC then the IAC is working OK. If you do see a P0505 DTC then you need to check the bolded things above.

Another thing to note: the IAC motor only functions (and DTC P0505 is only relevant) when the throttle plates are closed (TPS < 1%), the VSS = 0 (bike not moving), and battery voltage ≥ 9 V.
good stuff...

she started up and warmed up great (before I started fiddling to remove the IAC)... went for a ride aroound block and before I made it all the way around I could tell she didn't like dropping down to low revs, as in slowing for the stop and slowing for turns...

so what would cause a shitty idle ( actually to stall) AFTER a problemless cold start and short warm up? if the answer is (or could be) a sticky IAC then by cleaning it up I may be in good shape, but if my symptoms don't match a malfunctioning IAC then I need to get rolling in the right direction to cure my real ills...
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Old 11-19-2012, 02:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny HotFoot View Post
...
....
so what would cause a shitty idle ( actually to stall) AFTER a problemless cold start and short warm up? if the answer is (or could be) a sticky IAC then by cleaning it up I may be in good shape, but if my symptoms don't match a malfunctioning IAC then I need to get rolling in the right direction to cure my real ills...
Do you have a DTC set (is your CEL on?) and is it DTC P0505?

These posts explains how to read and clear DTCs:
  1. early model ECM
  2. late model ECM

If no DTC is set, then your problem isn't the IAC system and you'll need to check all the bolded items in Post #8 (except the IAC motor) as well as the fuel pressure/fuel pump and miss-adjusted throttle body (cables and or linkage out of adjustment could cause the TPS to read > 1% when throttle is turned back or not allow the throttle plates to close).

Also, have used an ECM programming tool like the SERT? If so, a bad calibration file can cause the engine to hick-up at idle. You may need to mess with the:
  1. VE table values for low RPM and 0% TPS
  2. Warmup Enrichment values for temperature(s) where stumble occurs
  3. IAC warmup Steps values for temperature(s) where stumble occurs
  4. Decel Enleanment values for temperature(s) where stumble occurs

Last edited by stever975; 11-19-2012 at 02:35 PM. Reason: added more info
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