One more thing that I want to mention that Max did not clarify in the very first post. (At least I didn't understand, you all might ) Those 2 black pieces that you see in the first picture is not just the mount that you are replacing. Max is also showing the bracket that bolts to the engine. (That is the black plate with the 4 holes in it) You do not need to order and replace this piece. Only the rubber circle that you see poking through. The rubber mount that you are replacing attaches to this bracket with the 2 large allen screws. You really can't see in this picture what the piece looks like. My old one is shown here...
well i finally tackled the front motor mount change. like all have previously stated...this job was a muther! this job requires serious patience! it took me about 7 hours. i do NOT want to do this anytime soon! that bolt on the left side is very hard to get at. my 03's motor mount was cracked half way, so i seriously recommend anyone with the older models to get it checked.
It took over an hour to get the old mount out. The rubber mount looks like new with about 9600 on the bike. The new version should be here this afternoon from Zanotti, so I'll upgrade to be on the safe side.
Yes, the two bolts that hold the bracket to the engine on the shifter side were a bitch. Without the proper tools and a lot of patience boys & girls, it's not an easy job. Plus it's about 89 degrees here with high humidity and the sweat was dripping into my eyes during most of the job......
Another 1 1/2 hours to get the new one in and bolted up.....my advice to anyone who is going to do it, DO NOT snug any of the bolts down, including the large bolt that goes through the mount until all of the bolts have started in their proper locations......
Max, if you did the complete job in 1 1/2 hours, you are my hero.....
Did you leave the doughnut off the frame bracket when you completed the installation of the new front motor mount, and if it's possible can you provide a few pics showing the completed upgrade?
Is it possible for you guys to provide a few pics on the new front motor mount installation that you have performed, especially one showing the frame bracket without the doughnut.
When your done there is no way to tell early from late design when bolted up. If yo look at the very first post in this thread you will see new and old top bracket. When you pry the washer and rubber off the old looks just like the new one.
__________________ R.I.P. My dearest Jeannie, you are in my heart always.
The road of life sometimes seems full of potholes. RIP Jeannie, Alex and Brian. I'll never forget any of you.
I just changed my upper motor mount and like everyone else I hope I never have to do it again. I did find an alternate method of loosing the left side bolt without taking the radiator off, you still have to loosen the bottom of the radiator for enough working space but you don't have to have the mess of taking the radiator off.
I pulled the battery and was able to get a 8mm long ball hex drive with an 3/8 extension on the bolt while I used a 15mm socket to take the nut off. The hardest part was scraping the old rubber off the top bracket.
The old style mount was still good (no cracks that I could find) after 38000 miles, but still glad I made the change to the new style.
Life is mostly froth and bubble;
Two things stand like stone:—
Kindness in another’s trouble,
Courage in our own.
One tell tale indication the front mount is sagging is to look at the junction of your header and the third volume and see if the clamp is touching the frame. I discovered this trying to suss out a vibe between 4-5K and noticed the clamp from the header to the third volume was digging a nice hole in the removable frame member. Roundabout chasing that problem I came to suspect worn engine mounts. When the old ones were removed, the front mount was obviously distorted. With new mounts, and a new frame down tube, the exhaust no longer touches the frame.
The pilot is always the first person at the scene of the crash.