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Old 11-12-2012, 06:14 PM   #1
rbabos
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Front Exhaust Hits Frame

Looking over my new 2013 dx I noticed the front head pipe has hit the wire clip on the lower frame rail. Plastic was burnt off and signs the pipe was impacting the clamp as well under certain, likely on decel. At most clearance is about 1/8". Short of tapping a dent into the pipe, not sure how to gain any more room there. Anyone have this same clearance issue? Exhaust is bone stock.
Ron
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:43 AM   #2
stever975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbabos View Post
Looking over my new 2013 dx I noticed the front head pipe has hit the wire clip on the lower frame rail. Plastic was burnt off and signs the pipe was impacting the clamp as well under certain, likely on decel. At most clearance is about 1/8". Short of tapping a dent into the pipe, not sure how to gain any more room there. Anyone have this same clearance issue? Exhaust is bone stock.
Ron
I tried to send you a reply to the PM you sent me and the forum software reported that you have this feature turned off or for some other reason you can't receive PMs. Here's what I tried to send:

First, a new bike with engine or wheel alignment problems should be fixed by the dealer that sold it. A lot of parts need to be removed to free up the engine so it's hanging on the motor mounts without any stress and if it was my 2013 bike I'd bring it back to the dealer and make them fix it

That said, the fact you've already "altered" a part to make clearance indicates something isn't right. The first thing that should come off is the entire exhaust system. If this was installed wrong it can easily push the engine out of alignment. The bike needs to be supported upright and level with both wheels off the ground and the oil pan not touching the lift (the engine/swingarm must be hanging free on the motor mounts). It's in this position that you should check the rear wheel alignment.

I'm assuming you haven't changed tires but you need to verify that the rear wheel and tire are "true", the bearings are good, and all spacers are installed properly. The engine mounts (especially the front one) should be inspected for damage. The front one should be checked to make sure all the fasteners are tight. The steering bearing should be checked and "fall-away" adjusted also. If all the components are in good shape the engine should self center and the front and rear wheels should be aligned. If not, there's something wrong with one or more of the three motor mounts, one or more wheel component is damaged, or the frame is damaged.

To quote from the service manual: "The engine stabilizer link between the engine and the frame is a horizontal engine locator only. The stabilizer link is not to be used to adjust the horizontal alignment of the rear wheel." The engine case can be damaged if too much stress is applied by this link in an attempt to correct for a bad component.

If you are going to be messing with this you need to have the service manual in hand and follow all the procedures for checking the wheels, steering, motor mounts, belt tension, exhaust system installation, etc. When adjusting the belt tension, the rear wheel axle nut should first be torque good and tight (about 80 to 90 ft•lbs ≈ 115 Nm) to hold the axle adjusters and then finish the tightening by increasing the torque to 140 to 150 ft•lbs (190 to 203 Nm).
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:37 AM   #3
rbabos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stever975 View Post
I tried to send you a reply to the PM you sent me and the forum software reported that you have this feature turned off or for some other reason you can't receive PMs. Here's what I tried to send:

First, a new bike with engine or wheel alignment problems should be fixed by the dealer that sold it. A lot of parts need to be removed to free up the engine so it's hanging on the motor mounts without any stress and if it was my 2013 bike I'd bring it back to the dealer and make them fix it

That said, the fact you've already "altered" a part to make clearance indicates something isn't right. The first thing that should come off is the entire exhaust system. If this was installed wrong it can easily push the engine out of alignment. The bike needs to be supported upright and level with both wheels off the ground and the oil pan not touching the lift (the engine/swingarm must be hanging free on the motor mounts). It's in this position that you should check the rear wheel alignment.

I'm assuming you haven't changed tires but you need to verify that the rear wheel and tire are "true", the bearings are good, and all spacers are installed properly. The engine mounts (especially the front one) should be inspected for damage. The front one should be checked to make sure all the fasteners are tight. The steering bearing should be checked and "fall-away" adjusted also. If all the components are in good shape the engine should self center and the front and rear wheels should be aligned. If not, there's something wrong with one or more of the three motor mounts, one or more wheel component is damaged, or the frame is damaged.

To quote from the service manual: "The engine stabilizer link between the engine and the frame is a horizontal engine locator only. The stabilizer link is not to be used to adjust the horizontal alignment of the rear wheel." The engine case can be damaged if too much stress is applied by this link in an attempt to correct for a bad component.

If you are going to be messing with this you need to have the service manual in hand and follow all the procedures for checking the wheels, steering, motor mounts, belt tension, exhaust system installation, etc. When adjusting the belt tension, the rear wheel axle nut should first be torque good and tight (about 80 to 90 ft•lbs ≈ 115 Nm) to hold the axle adjusters and then finish the tightening by increasing the torque to 140 to 150 ft•lbs (190 to 203 Nm).
The pm thing should be resolved and yes it was not configured correctly. Appologies to all that tried to respond and couldn't.
SM has been ordered and on it's way. Ordered it when I got the bike.
The main issue was the left front pan bolt was gouging the frame rail . I was only able to break the one heim joint free due to not wanting to dump the filter with only 200 kms on the bike. I unscrewed the one only 1.5 turns, way below the max of 2 if the center section was turned to adjust both ends. With thumb pressure the bolt popped in and gave 1/8" frame clearance to the bolt. I profiled the bolt to give a few thou more. Funny you mentioned the exhaust. When pushing with my thumb I could hear it creaking. For now I will loosen the whole exhaust system and let it find it's unstressed positon and then varify link bolt alignment.
Rear wheel is perfectly inline with the forks in the vertical plane and rear to front tracking is off by 1" to the right at the front tire. Not terrible but my belt is too tight anyway so I will do both at the same time.
Dealer is pretty much useless, considering who ever test rode it couldn't hear the bolt chattering on the frame on one side and the exhaust smacking the clip on the right. I now have clearance on both sides so it should be ok for the time being.
Sorry about that pm thing, but it should be fixed now.
Ron
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