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Old 10-30-2011, 09:55 AM   #16
ElrodontheV-Rod
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Originally Posted by photogger View Post
I just replaced my switch for the second time. 1st time the dealer replaced it with OEM part. Lasted about a year before acting up again - no light and leaking. This time I replaced it myself with a switch from Auto Zone. Duralast part # RB401, $8.99 with a lifetime warranty.
It's a little larger, but fits no problem. SCREW the dealer OEM CHEAP parts!
ALL of these type switches are garbage,always have been,always will be,but what the hell,NASA uses them.Cost is around 3 cents when they roll outa the machine in China.I'll bet I've changed thousands of oil senders on Chevy engines in my life.Thousands more inside transmissions that use a sender,(aka transducer) to convert a hydraulic signal to an electric for the TCM to read.Mopar Torque Flite transmissions have the highest failure of any switch I have ever seen! They list for $120 each,+ diagnostic labor,+ the labor,fluid to change it and my lunch.Carries a 90 day warranty!
Best way to keep a brake light sender working for a long time on a V-Rod is to make a new line and relocate the sender away from the heat.
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:32 AM   #17
T-Squared
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What about a piece of heat shielding material cut to fit the switch and wiring? A couple of stainless tie wraps, or some safety wire to hold it down? This is one of my "projects" for over the winter....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350118/?rtype=10
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Old 11-01-2011, 11:48 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by T-Squared View Post
What about a piece of heat shielding material cut to fit the switch and wiring? A couple of stainless tie wraps, or some safety wire to hold it down? This is one of my "projects" for over the winter....

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-350118/?rtype=10
this is what I am now trying, changed the switch this summer and I just slipped a piece of the heat shield wrap over the switch and the wires (its a hollow tube and doesn't need any tie wraps to keep it in place, mine hasn't moved at all)
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:08 PM   #19
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Brake Light Switch

I own a 2009 VRSCAW Nov 2011 the brake light switch went bad. Replaced it with the 72023-51D from Harley. Now its Nov 2012 and I am replacing it with a 72023-51E from Harley. Let's see how long this lasts. I'm in Hawaii and I needed it fast but I will definitely look aftermarket for the next. I have gotten better at taken off the exhaust though.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:33 PM   #20
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Rear Brake Switch

Thanks for the info gang. I picked up a 2006 Night Rod 3 seasons ago and now with over 10K miles the rear brake sensor is shot. Will replace with RB401 and use the heat shield material.
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Old 07-18-2013, 03:51 PM   #21
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I used the accel one off of eBay last month. The exhaust had to be removed in order for me to get the original off. I used a 1 inch open ended wrench. You have to use the hex side.
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Old 08-16-2013, 04:01 PM   #22
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Hey just about to attempt to replace my rear brake switch today, do I need to bleed the rear brake? I was told that if I apply a tiny bit a pressure to the lever and hold after I remove the old switch and while installing the new one I can avoid bleeding. I know I should take it to the dealer, but $120 seems crazy to me.
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Old 08-16-2013, 06:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rony_espana View Post
Hey just about to attempt to replace my rear brake switch today, do I need to bleed the rear brake? I was told that if I apply a tiny bit a pressure to the lever and hold after I remove the old switch and while installing the new one I can avoid bleeding. I know I should take it to the dealer, but $120 seems crazy to me.
Yes, you will end up getting air in the line, flush it through, $120 is well worth it if you are not comfortable doing this work
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:50 PM   #24
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I agree with $120 being alot to bleed brakes. Bleeding brakes is not difficult. However, if you have ABS you can't do it in one shot without the dealer's service tool.
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:53 PM   #25
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You could bleed it normal and go for a couple of short rides and trigger the ABS to get the old fluid and any air pushed out of the ABS passages into the main line.
[Edit]
... I know, not the safest way but it works dangit.
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Old 08-17-2013, 12:55 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b14fair View Post
I own a 2009 VRSCAW Nov 2011 the brake light switch went bad. Replaced it with the 72023-51D from Harley. Now its Nov 2012 and I am replacing it with a 72023-51E from Harley. Let's see how long this lasts. I'm in Hawaii and I needed it fast but I will definitely look aftermarket for the next. I have gotten better at taken off the exhaust though.
09 VRSCF with 44K just replaced the switch with the 72023-51E part. BTW this is the first mechanical failure for the bike.
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